四姑娘山双桥沟景区“鹰嘴岩”海拔5200多米，因形状酷似老鹰嘴得名。20号队员
成都集合采购完第二天21日进山入住书记家小雨，了解到天气连续的晴天已经几天了，晚上王幺妹家和古古碰头安排进山具体时间，碰到几位
日本的传统
攀岩者，两位68岁的岩友讲述了他们攀登“中央尖塔”的过程，了解到鹰嘴岩的大本营应该就是在“白海子”边上是最佳位置。
22日分工采购整理攀登装备，把有高反懒洋洋呆在房间里甘叔和杨帆喊了出来和王二、邱江一起整理攀登装备，晒着暖暖洋洋的太阳喝着咖啡进山前的最后休闲时光。
23日早8点准时进山适应训练，提前知道古古他们进山也是到白海子
露营攀登决定和他们一起不下来了，四个多小时的路程上升海拔1000米，到达白海子露营点海拔高度4400多米。
。
美丽的白海子四周全是高耸的大岩壁，平整的草地是露营最佳的地方干净的湖水清甜可口，除了氧气少点这里一切是那么的完美。
本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-4 16:50 编辑
WANG ZHIMING
New Route on Eagle Rock Peak,
Qionglai Mountains, Sichuan
A Dream of 353 Years – 13 pitches, 5.11a, 650 m
At 4:30 pm on August 27, 2013, I was gasping with my back leaning on the rock. Heng Zhao and
Jinyun Dong, my teammates, were thoughtfully looking at me. Cloud rapidly gathered around us as
not unusually in this season. We were pushing the 11th pitch at least 500 meters above the base camp.
The Eagle Rock Peak ca. 5,300 m dominantly towers southeast of Potala Shan in the Shuangqiao
Valley. The only climbing record is Swiss team of Christof Looser, Martin Ruggli and Lukas Durr.
They stood atop in October, 2005. The name of route is I Hate Camping: 21 pitch, VI,F7a (5.11d), A3,
700 m.
On August 23
We set up the base camp at 4,400 m south of the Eagle Rock Peak.
On August 25
We carefully studied logistic route and reconnoitered viable access to start climbing. Weather was easy
to change, sunny, rain and cloudy.
Pitch 1: A gentle slab of 50 – 60° angle with crack could be soloed with no protection. Grade 5.7R.
Pitch 2: Angle increased to 70° with lose rock, but was soloed. Grade 5.8R.
Pitch 3: Real climbing started. Slab with no crack of Grade 5.7R. 8 mm bolt and short rope left by
Japanese having abandoned due to bad weather was found.
Pitch 4: Also slab with less crack of Grade 5.7R continued. Weather got worse with rain. 100m rope
was fixed.
On August 26
Another party of our group climbed to “Switzerland terrace”. We had different approaches. We chose
right way to an integrated crack that directed to the top of the Eagle Rock Peak. The other party
returned to the base camp. They climbed three pitches of total 150 meters with 70° rock. The grades
are 5.8R, 5.8R, 5.5. They also fixed ropes.
On August 27
I was the first that arrived to Switzerland terrace, above which is the main crack. The angle looked
vertical.
At 12:30 pm Dong and Zhao finally arrived to the terrace. I followed a crack from the platform to the
right side. That was Pitch 8 Grade 5.7 with crack and smooth wall.
At 1:30 pm Pitch 9 started. Climbing was really dramatic. We made a good choice. After Pitch 8
belay station, I moved 15m to the right side, then to the left by 10 m and entered main crack. This was
a wonderful route of Grade 5.10 +. I put an anchor on small terrace, fixed ropes for Griff and Zhao.
At 3:00 pm Pitch 10 was steeper with crack. As ascending the crack became narrow and harder to
climb with Grade 5.10 +. After about 35 m climb we reached a terrace where we found two pitons and
corrupted white nylon rope and small metal ring that was put by Switzerland team for descending after
they successfully summited. At 4:00 pm Pitch 11 was traverse with Grade 5.9.
At 5:00 pm the initial push of Pitch 12 was big challenge for two narrow vertical cracks, after them
we entered easy chimney. When we found three remaining pitons in this pitch en-route, I was very
much puzzled. Did we repeat the old route that any team already finished before? This was definitely
not along the Switzerland route. Are they belonging to a Japanese or Korean team we met recently?
We did not find any information about them online because of the language difference.
Our goal was to open new route, thus these three pitons frustrated us a lot. This pitch was the toughest through the
entire route. Grade is 5.11a.
At 6:00 pm cloud appeared. We opened headlamps. Dong and Zhao followed me Pitch 13 with 70°
cracks and finally “Summit, we’ve got it”. At 7:30 pm Looking around I was between the low summit
and middle summit of the Eagle Rock Peak. The height gap was about 20 m. There was a higher peak
some 200 m away hidden from the Shuangqiao Valley. At 8:00 pm we continuously climbed 14 hours
after departing from base camp. I cleaned up ropes for descent. We did not left any spare rock
protection, nut, webbing, rope and other climbing gears and man-made rubbish on the route.
