一路向南，穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇 - 走出国门 - 8264户外手机版

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/4 Grerrero Negro--Viznaico 72公里
9/5 Viznaico--San Ignacio 70公里
9/6 San Ignacio--Santa Rosalia 73公里

這三天的路程由西海岸再度橫越到東海岸，從太平洋岸到Cortez海，地形西緩東陡，也就是若由西往東，先緩上到海拔約600公尺，再兩個陡下坡到海岸。第二個陡下坡，里程大約為17-11公里，海拔下降超過300公尺，加上坡度並不平均，有數段超過10%，加上急彎，有curva infierno的名號，或是開玩笑的翻譯成『通往地獄的險坡』。

除了了解到中午過後數小時的超過37度的氣溫不是拿來克服的，而是拿來避免的之外(也就是我得妥善安排行程，早出早歸)，這段路沒有太多驚奇，除了有人用流利的英文說他已經要到水了，所以給他食物就好，這是第二次被攔車索物，我只能希望過程都能如此和平。

接下來內容稍微聊一下在下加州半島的生活事項，這篇談水和住宿。

墨西哥自來水不可生飲，取得飲用水最快的方式是到商店購買，不論價格，這個方式最大的問題是這裡不回收寶特瓶，製造一堆塑膠垃圾並不環保。我對單車旅行一向有個認知，這應該是環保的運動，但是若因為吃多喝多製造一堆垃圾，尤其是不可回收的，那就失去本意。

比較有規模的城鎮有類似台灣『加水站』的私人店鋪，差別是有人駐守，可以要求小容積的補充，大約1公升1peso(台幣1.8元)。請參見照片，雖不如商店般多見但可一試。商店也有賣1加侖，大約3.3公升的飲用水，雖然還是製造塑膠垃圾，但是便宜許多，約20peso(新台幣36元)。

住宿方面，在沙漠隨地露營不是不可能，可是得克服鐵絲圍籬，還有安全問題。之前文章提過，整體來說，下加州半島不危險，但是針對偏遠觀光區的犯罪偶有所聞，更別忘記這裡槍枝取得容易。所以使用私人露營地要評估它的安全性，一般來說，觀光客稀少的小村鎮多半是安全的且居民友善。

旅館住宿價格不算便宜但可接受，雙人房會依入住人數定價，單人入住約400-600peso，約700-1100台幣，可要求看房間，並記得檢查wifi或手機訊號。

9/4 Grerrero Negro--Viznaico 72km
9/5 Viznaico--San Ignacio 70km
9/6 San Ignacio--Santa Rosalia 73km

I followed the highway 1, the only paved through road in Baja, from west Pacific ocean to east sea of Cortez in the three days. Gently gained altitude to about 600 meters in sea level, then dropped to the east coastline in only two short steep slopes, the second one, curva infierno, means curves of hell, located from milepost 17 to 11, descend over 300 meters in high altitude. More worse, it doesn't descend evenly, several short sections of more than 10% grades with sharp curves, makes its mark.

This section was ordinary. But I understood that the highway temp, more than 37 degrees, is not something to overcome, but to avoid. So I should always try to start early and arrive in early afternoon. And I was asked food again! The man speaked fluent English and told me he had got water. I hope things always go smoothly like that. Tell me what you need, not point me with something and get what you want.

I will cover something about the travel life in Baja California. Water and accommodation in the next.

The tap water is not drinkable in Mexico. But pet bottles are not recycled in Baja. So I always try to refill the water bottle in “ purificadora de aqua”, means somewhere sells pure water(about 1peso of 1 liter), instead of buying the water in the store and produce “un-recyclable” plastic trashes. It's not widely distributed like stores and can only be found in towns of medium to large scale, but worth a try. Or the 1 gallon water bottle, about 1.2USD, is another choice to reduce the budget and maybe reduce the plastic waste. I think that cycling should be an eco friendly activity, but if a cyclist produces more waste, especially the un-recyclable one, due to eats and drinks more. Then cycling becomes a burdan to the nature, also the cyclist.

About accommodation. It's not impossible to wild camp in the desert. But the camper has to deal with the wire fence along the roadside, not to mention the safety concerns. I don't regard Baja as a dangerous place,but the crime targeting the remote tourists area is not uncommon, and don't forget that the weapons is highly accessible in Mexico. So use wise and caution in the private campsite, especially in the tourists area. But the small towns are usually very safe and people are friendly.

The price of hotels is not cheap but acceptable. The single occupancy rate is a bit cheaper than the double occupancy in the same double room. You can see the room before check-in, about 30-40 Usd in a basic room. And don't forget to check the wifi of cellphone single in the room. sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸) sea of Cortez與小鎮Santa Rosalia(照片右側海岸) 第二段險降坡 第二段險降坡頂點，已可見Cortez海 第一段險降坡 火山 Las Tres Virgenes，最近噴發西元1746 文章提到的加水站

有趣的經歷........
假如是我的話,會錯過了認識別人的機會,因為個人性格不愛搭訕.

其實小弟我很多時候也是為了討得一個安穩地過夜，

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/7 Santa Rosalia--Mulege 60公里
9/8 Mulege--餐廳Las Palmas 73公里
9/9 Las Palmas--Loreto 62公里

位於地震帶的墨西哥又發生大地震。我們除了祈禱傷亡不要擴大外，要了解首都墨西哥城的預警系統這次拯救許多生命，我對政治沒興趣，但是像之前貼文所提，自私的政策，例如叫墨西哥出錢蓋牆(不論用直接或貿易手段等間接方式)，多少會排擠預算，然後會造成什麼後果?

這段路程有兩個重點，一是一段風景優美的岩岸海岸－Bahia de concepcion，這是Baja半島和Baja半島東部的小半島圍成的海域，除了地貌，更有許多白色純淨沙灘與露營地，palapa，意思是木棚或草棚搭建的簡易營位遮蔽，高處眺望像沙灘上的褐色蘑菇，十分有趣。

另一個是我9/8過夜的地點。在海岸路程最後一個可靠開放的海灘－playa Buenoventura，雖然我抵達的時間餐廳尚未開放(我本來機會在此用餐順便躲太陽，但是餐廳下午3點才營業)。工作人員除了好心的翻出一瓶飲料賣我，也確認了我本來不認為可靠的補給站，32公里遠的餐廳Las Palmas。

稍微休息後，我大約於下午2點再度出發。從海岸到內陸平原是一段階梯狀的上坡，而餐廳Las Palmas座落在一條看天河旁。他們爽快的答應我在這裡露營過夜的請求(免費)，也精明的賣給我一加侖的飲用水，雖然我傾向於把我的水壺裝滿，以避免製造塑膠垃圾，但是我無法讓這裡的商家了解我的想法，即使我願意花費一樣的價錢。

這是家族經營餐廳，所有家族成員都住在餐廳後方，也是貨車休息站，或是更貼切的說，路途補給有限，扣除市中心與停車不易的，剩下的餐廳自然成為貨車司機必訪。傍晚整家族，包含三個小孩和一直還不夠大不懂追單車的狗，坐在依靠電動機發電的餐廳外乘涼。一位停留休息的貨車司機連說帶跳的讓大夥(不包括我，因為聽不懂)笑得合不攏嘴。

偏遠地區沒有自來水管路，但是載水車讓這裡水源不渝匱乏，早上看到他們澆花並往地上灑水固沙，完全不像在乾旱區中需斤斤計較水資源的使用。而屋外的大垃圾桶中的垃圾最後去向，除了偶爾垃圾車到訪載到掩埋場外，更偏遠的地區或是垃圾製造量不大的一般住家，則是居民自己開車把他們載到荒郊野外『棄屍』。

我露營的地點是餐廳的圍牆內，除了安全，也避免車聲吵雜。除了夜晚仍然炎熱影響睡眠外，我想這是最好的住所之一。

9/7 Santa Rosalia--Mulege 60km
9/8 Mulege--Las Palmas restaurant 73km
9/9 Las Palmas--Loreto 62km

Mexico, locates on a seismic zone, was hit by a massive earthquake few days ago. We can hope for the fewer casualties there, to do something we could do. And also we should understand the alarm system in the capital, ciudad de Mexico, saved many lives. What happened if the budget for the alarm system was used to build a wall? I am not talking about politics, but the possible impact of a selfish policy to another country.

There were two highlights on the section. First one is the scenic rocky coast of Bahia de Concepcion, a sea area surrounded by Baja peninsula and another small peninsula. The palapa which the thatch and branch are used to made a campsite shed, looks like a brown mushroom from high point. Interesting scenery.

Another highlight was where I overnighted, Las Palmas restaurant. I confirmed the restaurant was open in the last reliable open coastline campground, Buenoventura, where I planned to have lunch and to dodge the heat of mid afternoon but the restaurant was open until 3 pm. Other than telling me about the information of Las Palmas restaurant, the staff sold me a canned drink although the restaurant was closed. After a short break, I hit the road again at about 2 pm for Las Palmas restaurant, 32 km away. The highway ascent in a staircase manner from coastline to the higher inland. And the restaurant was besides a dry river.

Las Palmas restaurant was run by a friendly family and they all lived behind the restaurant. Their ready positive answer of my request of camping there seemed to suggest that some cyclists overnighted there before. And they sold me a gallon of drinking water, instead of a small bottle one. Although I preferred to refill my bottle instead of getting the new one and made plastic waste. I had difficulty of expressing my thoughts to reduce the plastic waste to the stores here even I am willing to pay the same price as the new bottle water.

This restaurant was also a truckers stop. In the evening, all the family, including three kids and a puppy which hadn't understood to chase the running wheels of the bicycle, rested and enjoyed the cool breeze outside the restaurant. A trucker stopped by, whom the family acquainted I guessed, joked and made the family grinned from ear to ear. A peaceful scenery which is seldom seen in the cities.

There was no tap water like lots of remote area in Mexico, but a truck ships water once a while to make sure that there is no problem of water shortage. And they have plenty of water for plants in the garden, no need to calculate the use of every drop of water. The trash was collected and shipped to the sanitary landfill site once in awhile, but some remote private property, doesn't produce much waste, deal with their waste in the own manner. That's what I learned from staying there.

I was allowed to camp inside the fence, where was isolated from the noise of the traffic on the highway. This was one of the best campsite I stayed, although the summer heat was still kind of unbearable at night. Bahia de Concepcion海景 Bahia de Concepcion海景 Bahia de Concepcion海景 Bahia de Concepcion海景 Bahia de Concepcion海景 Bahia de Concepcion海景，Buenoventura露營地 Bahia de Concepcion海景，Buenoventura露營地與工作人員 Bahia de Concepcion海景，與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa Bahia de Concepcion海景，與蘑菇狀的露營草棚palapa Bahia de Concepcion海景 可憐的旅館清潔人員，房間掉東西算她的 路景，利用積水洗車的司機 我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant 我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant，餐廳內部 我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant，與旁邊的神壇 我過夜的Las Palmas restaurant

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/10 Loreto--餐廳El Partiquo 56公里
9/11 餐廳--Ciudad Constitucion 91公里

看似單調的乾旱道路，實際上有許多有趣的事。首先，在Loreto郊區，一位汽車駕駛試圖把3隻衝出來的惡犬與我分離，於是我、駕駛，和三隻狗在路上大玩捉迷藏，期間還有零星幾台貨車經過，這讓我想起一首歌『我可以為你擋狗』。過了狗的勢力範圍，憋笑得向駕駛道謝後，續往南沿海岸線騎乘。

約38公里後，在最後雜貨店灌飽水後，道路再度穿越崎嶇的東部海岸稜脈，經過著名的Ligui隘口，通往中部平原。陡峭的Ligui隘口是地獄，之前險峻的下坡也是地獄，現在天氣太熱，到哪裡都是地獄。事實上，這段8公里上坡上升約400公尺，對多數單車騎士不算太難。這段路上有許多汽車輕按喇叭向我打招呼，我想這個時節單車的存在對他們可能極富娛樂效果。

不只炙熱，住哪裡也是大問題，把路上的餐廳當作過夜地點實在不可靠，更何況這段路上只有一間餐廳。幸好我在買椰子的小販向對向來車司機確認唯一餐廳不是鄉野傳奇。對了，小販把椰肉加了一堆辣椒和鹽巴，對我是暴殄天物，他卻吃得斤斤有味。

雖然Baja半島不算是單車聖地，但是只有一條貫穿南北的柏油道路，加上沿路設施有限，路上的餐廳想必很習慣單車騎士的出現，尤其是那些語言不通的。每當結帳，這家餐廳的女主人以計算機取代言語，告知我價錢，一整個下午我可以說是枯坐著等看夕陽，看完夕陽等看星月，看來我被歸類成『我們說什麼他都聽不懂』的那類旅客。在餐廳露營雖然可以感到當地人的友善，但並不是能夠好好休息放鬆的方式。高溫，在帳棚蚊帳外面蠢蠢欲動的大匹蚊子，還有半夜鬼叫的狗，一隻叫累了另一隻接著叫，還有另我發寒的巴掌大黑黃色蜘蛛悠悠爬過。而這間餐廳並不像上一間有豐富的食物選擇，我的晚餐是玉米糊(maize)配煎蛋，要價60peso，約台幣100。

翌日早晨起了五里大霧，就像冬天的淡水，但是這裡還是乾旱氣候！趁短暫的涼爽氣溫小暴衝的抵達目的地後，找到一間價性比ok且有飲水機的旅店，但是附近餐廳陪我吃晚餐的大批蒼蠅，也許是造成腸胃輕微不適的原因，休息日也因此誕生。

9/10 Loreto--restaurant El Partiquo 56 km
9/11 restaurant--Ciudad Constitucion 91 km

There was still something interesting in the section of seeming to be a rut. First one was the seek and hide between me, a red sedan, and 3 dogs in Loreto downtown: a drive tried to use the car to separate me from 3 mean dogs, few truck passed in the meantime. I held my laughter and expressed my gratitude after we left the territory of the dogs, and then I kept going, to another notorious section of the highway.

A well stocked mini market showed up about 38 km later, just before Ligui pass, about 8 km to ascend 400 meters in a staircase manner. It was terrible to me, and frankly, everywhere on the highway was kind of miserable because of the heat. And several drivers honked cheerfully to me on the section, I thought the dull existence of a bicycle must be an amusement to them.

As described in the previous post, I tried to confirmed the restaurant where I planned to camp was open on the road, and there was only one on the way on 9/10. I stopped at a coconut stand and a driver from opposite direction told me a restaurant was reliable open about 40 km away. The stand seasoned the coconut with spices and salts, too much for me so I only had the juice.

Baja California was not boomed in bicycle tourism, but the only paved through highway and limited facilities in most sections make sure the restaurant was familiar with cyclists. This was what I encountered in the overnight restaurant on 9/10. I got the warm invitation of staying there, but it was boring because I was cataloged in the cyclists of “he doesn't understand and speak Spanish”. The owner told me the price with the calculator and she didn't even try to talk to me! And it was still a sleepless night due to heat, mosquitos, and dog barkings. I even saw a palm sized spider in black dotted with yellow. The restaurant had very limited food options, I had dinner of eggs and maize, 60 pesos or about 3.5USD.

I took advantage of foggy and cooler temp to rushed to the big town on 9/11. I luckily found a nice hotel with fountain machine in good price. But the dinner in the restaurant nearby with sort of sanitary conditions(so many flies) caused a bit of stomach issues. A rest day is decided then. Ligui隘口路段 Loreto鎮的古蹟教堂Mission nuestra senora de Loreto Loreto鎮的海岸，左側遠方為Carmen島 Loreto鎮的海岸 Loreto鎮的海岸豪宅 Loreto鎮的簡易旅館，佔地小只有不到10間房，因此無線網路訊號良好。無線網路訊號是許多旅館的通病 Loreto鎮的簡易旅館San Martin，380peso，約新台幣650 當日過夜餐廳 當日過夜餐廳 文章提到的椰子攤

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/13 Ciudad de Constitucion--在公路里程76公里的餐廳 136公里
9/14 餐廳(loncheria)--La paz 76公里

之前在小鎮Grerrero negro受當地漁民邀請到他家用餐居然還有續集。他的朋友家庭在9/13當天正好經過，在內容一半雞同鴨講一半有聽沒懂的寒暄後，他們送我幾顆橘子。數量有些多，所以我決定把其中一兩顆橘子送給路上的好心人，讓愛心傳下去；若遇不到好心人，我就把愛心通通吃下去。

類似的狀況，超過200公里的路程，除了接近La pas(南下加州的首府)的補給開始多得不像話外，剩下路程又是同樣的遊戲：餐廳密碼。趁著北風快速前進到Las poticas，距離出發地96公里，一個路上的指示牌一直有里程提示的小鎮，用午餐的機會打聽下一間餐廳位置。下一間餐廳位於El cien，顧名思義位於公路里程100公里，而在El cien我幸運的得到了完整的餐廳位置密碼。

完整的利用全部的日照時間，不論正午氣溫為何，為得是能早點到Baja旅程的目的地La paz，從這裡將搭渡輪往墨西哥本土。當日於La paz都會區前的最後一間可靠餐廳落腳。這裡相對有現代化的內裝，除了食物，也販賣許多手工裝飾品，這家人示意我在圍籬內隨意找空地露營，至於半夜如往常鬼叫的狗，習慣就好，至少當天晚上沒看到蚊子和大蜘蛛。我當晚把橘子送給他們，不知是出於無比的善心，還是看在橘子的份上，翌日他們則給我一份免費早餐，原價90peso，約5.5美金的火腿炒蛋配玉米餅皮。我在這裡遇到第一位，也是最後一位單車旅行騎士。他當日抵達餐廳時已鐵門拉下，於是他直接在餐廳門口旁邊空地露營。每個人都有不同的安全忍受係數，若找不到餐廳，我會找隱密地點露營：『我看得到別人，別人看不到我』的原則。

下加州半島的旅程，原本我很擔心這裡的交通狀況，例如『不給我路就給我死』的貨車司機，但事實上，大多數駕駛，尤其是貨車駕駛，對我十分禮遇。一位略懂英語的貨車司機跟我說過，若他單車騎士，接下來幾天都會在路上看到他，甚至司機可以推敲出看到單車騎士的時間與地點。將心比心，因為多數地區路幅狹窄，所以我在有對向車隊或前方有盲彎使得後方車輛無法超我車時，我會閃避讓後方來車通過。當然我不能一直以單車騎士的觀點看待其他的駕駛行為，例如這裡偶爾會看到的『尊重單車騎士，超車至少保持1.5公尺距離』的告示牌，對單車不熟悉的汽車駕駛可能會冒出許多疑問，例如『為什麼要保持1.5公尺距離，難道超汽車也要保持1.5公尺距離嗎？那摩托車呢？』以後有機會再討論這個問題。

9/13 Ciudad de Constitucion--restaurant at milepost of 76 km 136km
9/14 restaurant(loncheria)--La paz 76 km

A sequel of the feast of geoduck clam which I was invited in Grerrero Negro by Rolando, a kind fisherman I met as the previous post mentioned. I got a feast of oranges on the road. Rolando’s friend, chanced to see me on the highway, stopped by and had a chat with me in kind of barely communication, then he gave me about half dozen of oranges. The quantity of oranges were a bit too many for me, so I decided to give one or two of them to friendly people if there was, i.e., I passed some of the kindness or I ate all the kindness.

This was still the section of lacking of facilities. I rode fast on the north wind(tailwind) in the morning and arrived Las politas, 96 km from where I started, only in the mid noon, and got some information in a restaurant about the further journey: there was another store in El cien, which means a village at milepost 100 km. And I got the password of restaurants location in El cien. What a luck!

I rode almost all day long regardless of the high temp in mid noon in order to arrive La paz earlier, where I will take the ferry to Mexico mainland. By the password of the restaurant location, I stopped at the last reliable one, where has comparatively modern decoration and sold not only basic foods but handcrafts. They told me to camp anywhere I want inside the fence. There was still barking dogs, but without mosquitoes and palm sized spiders. I gave the family an orange, and they provided me a free breakfast(fried eggs with hams and tordillas) in the second morning. I met the only bicycle traveler in Baja here. He arrived when the restaurant was closed and camped on the large space outside of the restaurant. Everyone has different safety tolerance. For me, I searched for a hidden place to camp, followed the rules of “ I can see others but others can't see me” if the restaurant was not open.

I was worried about journey in Baja, where I heard about the truckers of “giving me the whole lane or making you a pancake”. Instead, I found most drivers, especially the truckers, were in whole cautious and willing to share to road, or share their road. I was told by a trucker who understands a little English that he expects to see a cyclist on the coming days if he found one on the first day. And he could even speculate where and what time to see the cyclist. Thinking for others, I stopped on the roadside for the coming cars when I saw a queue of vehicles from the opposite direction or a blind curve ahead, conditions of the coming driver having difficulty or danger to pass me. Of course we can't discuss the road right of cyclists on a cyclist’s view all the time. For example, I found few signpost of “respect the cyclists and pass them in the distance of no less than 1.5 meters. A driver might ask: why should I pass the cyclist with such a huge distance? How about to pass a car or motorcycle? I will discuss this topic later. La paz La paz La paz有許多免費草棚(payapa)供民眾休憩，往本土的渡船頭在對面鎮區 過夜的無名餐廳，與另位單車旅客的單車 近La paz，可見sea de Cortez與對岸的Ceralvo島 路景，過夜餐廳位於照片右上角 位於公路里程100的店家，提供我路程的餐廳資訊 文章提到Rolando的朋友 椰子口味的運動飲料

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/16-9/17 騎車到距離La paz17公里的渡船頭，再搭乘跨夜渡輪

原本擔心的混亂場面，卻被意料之外的井然有序取代。

雖然Bajaferry無英文網站，但是事先購票並列印票券並不困難，單車與個人總票價1440peso，約美金90元。單車客與行人一同程序，行李過x光機並拖運領取行李拖運號碼牌後，約兩小時前開始不複雜的登船手續。行李x光機檢查人員看我打算大費周章的拆卸綁妥的背包，示意我牽車走過，完全省略行李檢查的步驟之後工作人員找了個地方給我固定單車。下加州半島的公路上有多處檢查哨，防止旅客攜帶不法物品，但是我的行李只被隨意的檢查兩次。看來單車旅客雖然是道路上的弱勢，還是有某種程度的特權。

船艙大致分為三部分，餐廳，臥艙，與坐艙，都有空調。需加價的臥艙可住4人，我獨身並不划算，但是可能適逢旅遊淡季，乘船旅客並不多，坐艙(類似飛機座椅，但是座椅與走道距離寬敞許多)的旅客有空間地可席地而眠。包含在票價中的基本晚餐需在開船前領取，開船後餐廳還有現場樂隊演唱。

但是對我而言，躺在晃動頗為劇烈的船艙地板並不容易入眠，半夜還有幾個喝太多的乘客製造巨大噪音，我很擔心他們會不會因為船艙搖晃加上酒精作用，在船艙地板上製造幾條酸度可比工業廢水的『小溪』。

下船行李不必再過x光機，但是需經過狗鼻子的驗證。相對於乘船碼頭距離市區有17公里，Mazatlan的渡輪碼頭與市區僅步行距離。Mazatlan是觀光大鎮，有沙灘與古蹟城區，也有我在墨西哥第一次看到的百貨公司。接下來的旅程，雖然仍在墨西哥，但是海峽兩岸大不相同。

9/16-9/17 Cycled 17 km from downtown La paz to ferry dock. Then took the overnight ferry to Mazatlan, Mexico mainland.

To embark on the ferry was not a chaos and stressful process as I originally thought. Instead,the process was in orders and tidy.

To purchase the ticket on line was quite simple and straightforward, although no English surface was provided on the website of Bajaferry. The price was 1440 peso, about 90USD for one adult and a bicycle. The passengers were allowed to embark around 2 hours before departure, and I was told to walk the bicycle with crowds to the security check. But the officer greeted with me and allowed me walk through the metal detector without unloading and scanning the bags tied up on the bicycle racket. A cyclist's privilege again just like I could usually wave through the military checkpoints on the Baja highway without any methodical search. It seemed that cyclists are trusted here.

There were 3 components for passengers use in the ferry cabinet. The sleeping cabin, which had bunk beds and could accommodate 4 people in one cabin, is sold on extra fees. The restaurant provided basic dinner, including in the ticket fare, before departure. After departure, live band performance in the restaurant and passengers could enjoy the food alone with the hilarious music. The aircraft seats and tvs could be found in the lounge. I didn't purchase the use of sleeping cabin. But there was no problem to find a corner to curb up on the lounge floor due to less traveler in the shoulder season, and the seat and the aisle were much more spacious than those in the flight in the lounge. All the three cabins was air-conditioned.

But I didn't have a peaceful night because of being buffeted about during trip. And I was worried that the blasted drinkers spewed the acid lava on the cabin floor in the rolling ship.

The luggage didn't have to scan but to be sneezed by the drug detector dog when disembark. The ferry dock of Mazatlan was located in the walking distance from the downtown. Mazatlan is a modern city with fancy department stores but also has several ancient buildings. The journey on the mainland is quite different from in Baja peninsula, although I am still in Mexico. Mazatlan街景，色彩繽紛的住宅房屋 Mazatlan街景 Mazatlan街景 Mazatlan街景 常見的刨冰攤，沒有刨冰機，以冰鑽搓出冰屑，再淋上五顏六色的化學香料與煉乳 渡輪內部。晚間有live band演奏 逢墨西哥獨立廉價，各城市有許多慶祝活動。照片為Mazatlan的免費樂團演唱 商業渡輪外觀 完成於1899年的巴洛克風格教堂， Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception。位於Mazatlan中心 下加州半島最後一站La pas海濱黃昏，墨西哥馬祖手上拿的是貝殼，不是紙飛機 下加州半島最後一站La pas海濱黃昏

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/18 Mazatlan--Escuinapa
9/18 Escuinapa--Acaponeta
9/21 Acaponeta--Ruiz

墨西哥收費高速公路三日遊，之後還會繼續。而這裡的高速公路，跟預期長得不太一樣，路肩的功能也不太相同。

續談之前，小鎮的居民目前為止多友善，我十分喜歡『打招呼會回，而不是一個打招呼，另一個趕快把窗戶關起來』的友善氣氛。近Acaponeta市區，我被小吃攤攔下他們練英文我練西語和請吃晚餐。最後我打聽小鎮的住宿資訊，一位說小鎮旅館很便宜，只要75peso(約台幣130，感覺不太可能)，一位說住小吃攤，還有不知哪裡來的小男孩趁亂要了5peso。最後我給了5peso，自己找旅館。有趣的經驗。

下加州半島與墨西哥北方因為氣候等緣故，相對人口密度低。而這幾天與未來的旅程，將穿過高人口密度的中央高地。我很期待高原(平均海拔2000公尺左右)涼爽的氣候，但是人多車多貨車比長也比誰載的多又重實在令人擔心。一般道路(libre)多雙線道無路肩，這時候收費高速公路(cuota)成了救命仙丹。

不像下加州半島，那裡的自行車會被收費站的收費員踢下收費高速公路，這裡的高速公路的路肩，有單車更有行人，有時還有簡易店家，見怪不怪。經過收費站時自行車不能使用一般車道，這會有『經過車輛與收取現金數不符』的問題(自行車不用繳費，可是收費站的車輛計數器沒那麼聰明會分辨自行車與否)，需要從旁邊走過。這不是太大問題。

這裡的收費高速公路不像台灣，319鄉鎮就至少要有319個交流道，它繞過所有的小鄉鎮，而且沒有交流道。舉例而言，9/19當天上了高速公路，直到目的地，中間只有一個交流道，9/17當天路程中沒有半個交流道。所有的設施(加油站，雜貨店，與收費站等)多在交流道附近，離開交流道別有任何期待。這對我也不是太大問題。

比較大的問題，是收費高速公路多只有雙線道，慢行車輛會『腳踏兩條船』，一隻腳踩在一般車道，另一隻腳踩在路肩裡，讓其他車輛比較好超車，雖然這些車輛看到自行車會把踩在路肩上的右腳縮回去。也就是說，路肩在這裡具有給別人的超車功能。還有逆向行駛的當地自行車，不知哪裡冒出來的行人。但整體而言，騎在路肩安全多了，而且沒有一堆交流道(跨過交流道是最危險的，因為會與其他車輛爭車道)。

三天的平路後，接下來要爬上中央高地，還有幾個巨型城市等著我。

Cycling on the cuota(the toll highway) on the three days and further journey. The toll highway is not in appearance that I expected. And the function of the shoulder is not totally the same as in other countries.

Before going on the cuota, the villagers are quite friendly so far. I enjoyed greeting each other in the small town. I was invited dinner near downtown Acaponeta by the friendly staff of a good stand. I could practice my poor Spanish and they could practice English at the same time, although it was easier to understand each other by Google translate than tried to speak in a language that each one wasn't good at. When I asked about the information of hotels in town, one guy told me that I could find a hotel only for 75 pesos(about 4.3 USD, which was unlikely on my observations), the other told me I could overnight at the food stand. And a boy came from nowhere asked me 5 pesos when I was trying to figure out which information was really useful. I gave the boy 5 pesos and found a hotel without any suggestion. An interesting experience.

I am excited about the further journey to cycle on the cool highland(about 2000 meters), but also worried about the high density of population and much heavier traffic than Baja here. Most libre, or the common highway, doesn't have shoulders and only has dual lanes. And the cuota, the toll highway, becomes my salvation.

Instead of being kicked off the cuota by the staff at the toll booth like the case in Baja, cyclists, along with the pedestrian and even the simple store, are common scenery on the cuota shoulder. But cyclists should walk the bicycle and bypass the toll booth on the sidewalk, not go through it on a car lane. That's because the toll booth counter may include the bicycle(free of charge) and produce the wrong number of passing vehicles.

The most dangerous part of cycling on the cuota is to cycle through a interchange, but it seems not a problem here because the cuota bypasses most small villages and the interchange are scarce. I only encountered one interchange on 9/19 one the whole day cycling! But the facilities usually locate near the interchange and nothing in between. Short of supplies is one of the shortcomings to cycle on the cuota. But it's not a big deal to me.

A potential risk to cycle on the cuota shoulder is the function of the shoulder itself here: to let others to pass easier(most section of cuota is dual lanes). That is, the slow vehicles tend to drive between the car lane and the shoulder(right half part of the vehicle is on the shoulder and left half is on the car lane). Although I found the driver of slow vehicles(trucks in most) are courteous to me.

Over all, it is much safer to cycle on the cuota shoulder than on the shoulder-less libre. But I will see how to cycle through the huge cities ahead. Escuinapa小鎮中心，許多小鎮中心都有類似的景致：公園、教堂，和鎮名造牌 多數路段的收費高速公路只有兩線道。這還不是標準的『腳踏兩條船』，但是可以發現他開的特別靠邊讓別人比較好超車 收費高速公路，旁邊的沼澤區有人在行船，右側則是一般公路 收費高速公路交流道附近的『補給站』 收費高速公路與路邊攤。 文章提到的小吃攤 文章提到的小吃攤和我的晚餐，玉米餅，豆泥，和肉塊 有趣的交流道構造示意圖，右邊的回圈供迴轉使用

9/21 Ruiz--Tepic
9/22 Tepic
9/23 Tepic--Ixtlan de Rio

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

從Ruiz開始，道路大致不斷上升海拔往中部山區。幾乎所有聚落都位於山谷之中，道路不斷的上上下下，像神龍擺尾般越甩越高。短暫的大雷雨，居然讓Ixtlan de Rio的街道變成滾滾黃河，在拍攝離奇的雨後景觀時，幸運的遇到一位當地人，把我轉介到功能類似中途之家的非營利組織Alberque Obsidiana，當地人似乎有把單車旅人介紹到此的共識，我在留言簿中發現許多單車客的蹤跡。掌家的是一位頭髮花白的男士，除此之外還有一位幫忙的年輕人。除了住宿，他們也餵我吃晚餐(留言本上的西班牙語就是用餵食這個動詞)。。

Tepic是這趟墨西哥行程第一個巨型城市，但是沒有想像中糟糕。她大概就像『汽車版的臺南』，把路上義和機車軍團換成了汽車，尤其是被稱為colectivo的九人座廂型私人公車(還是有一定行駛路線，但是像計程車跑約多趟賺越多錢)最不守規矩，是墨西哥道路三寶之首，總是匆匆忙忙不知道在趕頭七還是趕投胎。

問題更大的是市區道路品質。除了幾條車太多，單車不太可能使用的主要道路，不是坑洞就是水塘，還有龜殼狀的柏油路。這裡是標準的夏雨冬乾熱帶氣候，現在夏季太陽總是猶抱琵琶半遮面。大型雷雨多發生在傍晚至清晨之間，白天要看琵琶大不大隻，但是到目前為止還沒有遇到可怕的雷電交加。

而居民主要信奉天主教的墨西哥，市區總有一個大教堂與被當作公園的『歷史中心』。而如同經濟成長飛速的許多開放中國家，年輕人太多，好聽叫人口紅利，難聽叫青年失業率，使得所有工作大家都搶著做。除了滿街跑的colectivo和計程車，大型超商的收銀員旁邊總是有一兩個非正式員工，以墨西哥的小費文化過活的『打包天使』(把顧客購買物品裝袋，一袋大概給1-2peso)。

接下來將穿越墨國第二大都市Guadalajara，雖然又被稱為墨西哥的矽谷，但我想貼切的形容是汽車之谷，因為那裡平均三人有一輛車在不算富有的墨西哥，這樣的數字實在令人咋舌。

The highway ascents to central highland from Ruiz. It is more like rolling several hills instead of gently climbing and most populated areas are located in the valley. Ixtlan de Rio, a small town located next to a river, suffered from floods just after a common thunderstorm! Maybe I had to thank for the flooding street that shouldn't be, I encountered a local and was introduced to Alberque Obsidiana, a non profit organization to help travelers, and they had given shelter to cyclists several times. An aged man and a young student work here, provided me a free accommodation and meals.

Tepic was the first large scale city in my journey in Mexico. The traffic there was in chaos, but somewhat like some cities in Taiwan, just replace the motorcycle to cars. The colectivo(private 9-seat van as a taxi with fixed route) here, like the motorcycle in Taiwan, came from nowhere and always in a rush, is quite bothering and a threat to cyclists.

The bad quality of city road with dips, puddles, and always full of cracks is another big problem to me. It's rainy season and the water in the city is a disturbance to road occupant. But luckily the downpour usually happens at night or in the early morning. So I don't have any experience until now to cycle in the pouring rain, not alone the terrified thunderstorm.

As a Catholic country, I could always find a magnificent Catholic church in every city centre, surrounded by the historic center as a park and recreation area. Like most developing countries, Mexico has a lot of young people. The vast young group, demographic dividend or youth unemployment rate, depends on how to interpret it. But the common scenery of developing countries could be found here, people always have creative ideas for a ”job” for example. The tip culture in Mexico fosters the a group of people to bag your purchases in big supermarket. They are not former employees and live on the coins of tips.

I will cycle through Guadalajara, second largest city in Mexico and three people own a car in average. Will that be a disaster? I hope not. Ceboruso火山岩，最近一次噴發在1875-1880年間
Ceboruso火山岩，最近一次噴發在1875-1880年間
Ixtlan de Rio，可以發現高速公路有防止貨車腳踏兩條船的設計
Ruiz主要街道，許多小鎮都有類似做成健康步道的主要街道，很難騎單車
常見的果汁攤，最左邊的是『米水』
高速公路常見的水缸，供汽車用
高速公路的連續彎路12公里
腳踏兩條船的貨車，為後方來車好超車，但也對使用路肩的當地人造成一定危險
連續彎路路段
路景
農田景觀，墨西哥最重要的作物鳳梨和玉米
文章提到的Alberque Obsidiana
雨後的Ixtlan de Rio

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

9/24 Ixtlan de Rio--Tequila
9/25 Tequila--Guadalajara都會區西緣
9/26 搭車進城市中心

Tequila的城鎮中心位居山谷，距離收費高速公路5公里，海拔落差近300公尺，也就是說，為了造訪這個小鎮，我得多爬一個陡峭的山丘。但是Tequila也是目前為止我最喜歡的小鎮之一，安全且乾淨，道路上的坑洞沒被居民當作垃圾桶，當然她還是有歷史中心與教堂。

距離墨國第二大城Guadalajara都會區(google map上用黃色標記道路圍成的橢圓形圈)約20公里不再有收費高速公路分流。這裡我了解到我太高估臺南市的實力，這段路完全沒有單車生存空間，更糟的是密集的車流喜愛霸凌自行車，也許當地人在實踐達爾文天擇說，單車應該像無尾熊般只在動物園出現。我決定剔除騎單車穿越這個城市的選項。

事實上在該城市的歷史中心，大約直徑3公里的範圍，有公共自行車租借站mibici，那裡還有許多宏偉古老的建築，現代的百貨高樓，警察在路上巡邏，還有人在指揮交通，路邊有廣闊的人行道，會鳥鳴的人行穿越號誌，是一個城市的好典範，當然典範不能太多，要不然就不叫典範了。我觀察過典範區外的自行車騎士，他們生存之道是比汽車駕駛更積極搶路權，反正有沒有搶贏都會上天堂。但是我在負重與路況不熟之下，無法像他們在道路衝刺以爭奪免死金牌，搭乘公共運輸是唯一選項。

我研究了一整個晚上，試圖釐清單車與公共運輸結合的謎團，並不困難，只是沒有完整的資訊解釋。簡述如下：

1.這裡公車系統很複雜，但是只有sitren系統有前置單車架可載運單車。捷運在限定時間可攜帶單車搭乘。

2.卜字型的捷運有兩條線路。sitren有三條線路，分別是1號－城市西緣到橫向捷運西側端點Juarez，3號－典範區(有電車線的trolley bus))，2號－城市東緣到橫向捷運東側端點Tetlan。

3.欲利用大眾運輸從城市西到東約30公里，需要先後分別搭乘siren1號，橫向捷運(綠線或2號線)，siren2號，票價都是7pesos，並不複雜。捷運一般日於10-13點可攜帶單車，公車無時間限制。

9/24 Ixtlan de Rio--Tequila
9/25 Tequila--Guadalajara west city limit
9/26 to city center by bus and metro

Tequila locates in a valley of 5 km from the toll road(cuota, the one I use), and almost 300 meters lower than the cuota. Which indicates I had to climb a steep hill to leave Tepuila to the cuota. But Tequila was the most beautiful town I had visited in Mexico, it's safe and has clean downtown, the dip on the road wasn't treated as a trash can. It also has grand church like most towns I had visited in Mexico.

The cuota and the libre(common highway) merges about 20 km off the metropolitan area of Guadalajara. From here, shoulder is either absent or too narrow to cycle. More worse, I found more driver to bully cyclists. Maybe the driver was practicing “survival of the fittest”. The bicycle, should only exist in the zoo like a Koala.

There is still bicycle friendly area in Guadalajara. Public bicycle rental system, mibici, is everywhere in this area. Along with broad sidewalk, pedestrian signals, magnificent ancient architecture, and modern shopping malls. But unfortunately, this “demonstration area” only locates about radius 3 km around historic center. I observed the cyclists outside of this area, their way of living was to be more aggressive than the driver. But I can't sprint with heavy load to fight for the road like the local cyclists. To play safe, I ruled out the option to cycle through Guadalajara. Instead, I decided to take advantage of public transportation.

The chance to bring bicycle on the bus or metro is limited to certain time period and routes. And the information about bringing a bicycle is scattered on the internet, no formal website explains details. The next is how to do it after my thoroughly research.

1.Only Siren bus system has frontal bicycle racket and could surely take the bicycle. Passengers could only bring the bicycle within limited time period on the metro system, from 10am to 1pm on weekdays.

2. There are only 2 lines of metro, and 3 lines of Siren. Siren number 1 is from city west limit to the westernmost station of the east westward metro route(green line or line two), whereas Siren 2 runs from city east limit to the easternmost station of metro green line. Siren 3, the trolleys bus, runs through downtown.

3. To bring the bicycle on the public transportation to go through Guadalajara from west to east. I have to take Siren 1 to the westernmost green line metro station, Juarez, then taking the metro to the last station on the east side, Tetlan. From Tetlan I have to take Siren 2 to life the city. The price of each section is 7 pesos. Guadalajara 的Arma廣場 Guadalajara的Siren 3號公車(trolley bus)，注意公車前方的自行車架 Guadalajara地區博物館(regional museum)，叫遊客不要往墓穴丟銅板當許願池 Guadalajara歷史中心，有人在玩小徑車(bmx) 博物館的猛瑪象化石 自行車租借系統與現代化的市中心