本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-15 16:17 编辑
日本阿式登山家已得5把正式金冰镐（非特别提及或象征鼓励类型），毫无悬念的亚洲排名第一，粗略估计世界前三
2018 Northeast face of Shispare (7611 m) in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
2013 The south pillar of Kyashar (Nepal), climbed by Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani and Hiroyoshi Manome
2011 Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama on the Japanese Mount Logan expedition (south-east face of Mount Logan).
2009
- Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi for the first ascent of the south-west face of Kamet (7756m, India) in alpine style;
- Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano for a new route on the north face of Kalanka (6931m, India).
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-11-29 16:22 编辑
把关键细节翻译了一下，我推测有可能她是队伍中唯一的女性，解开结组绳是为了找个地方方便，脱下手套的目的一般是为了更好地方便，和刘喜男的事故极其相似：
2015年12月21日 - 北海道大雪山系の黒岳にて登山中に滑落し、行方不明となる[1]。翌22日心肺停止状態で発見され、病院にて死亡確認。43歳没
On December 21, Kei Taniguchi slipped and fell to her death while descending Mt. Kurodake (1984m) in Japan's Ishikari Mountains on Hokkaido.
The Japan Times reports Taniguchi, 43, lost contact with her four teammates after she untied from the rope during a group break. "Police say evidence suggests she fell from a cliff to the northwest of the summit trail," states NHK World. Gloves belonging to her were later found, as well as tracks leading to where she likely fell.
2015年12月21日，谷口佳（Kei Taniguchi，女）在从日本北海道大雪山系的黒岳山 (海拔1984m)下撤途中滑坠身亡。日本时报报道，谷口佳，43岁，在一次团队休息途中解除结组绳后与她的四名队友失联。“警察说证据显示她从悬崖滑坠到登顶路线的西北部，”引述自NHK世界。稍晚属于她的手套以及把她引向滑坠点的痕迹被发现。
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-11-29 15:49 编辑
迄今为止全球唯一获得金冰镐的女性
谷口佳（Kei Taniguchi）遇难的详细经过和攀登成就简述
Remembering Kei Taniguchi
Chris Van Leuven Posted on: December 23, 2015
Kei Taniguchi Photo of the late Kei Taniguchi from her story "Being with the Mountain" in Alpinist 52. [Photo] Kei Taniguchi collection
On December 21, Kei Taniguchi slipped and fell to her death while descending Mt. Kurodake (1984m) in Japan's Ishikari Mountains on Hokkaido.
The Japan Times reports Taniguchi, 43, lost contact with her four teammates after she untied from the rope during a group break. "Police say evidence suggests she fell from a cliff to the northwest of the summit trail," states NHK World. Gloves belonging to her were later found, as well as tracks leading to where she likely fell.
In 2009, Taniguchi and her partner Kazuya Hiraide received the Piolet d'Or after completing the first ascent of the Southeast Face of Kamet (7756m) in India, via the route Samurai Direct (WI5+ M5+, 1800m). Taniguchi was the first woman to win this award for climbs that represent the "spirit of alpinism." Her name is listed in ten entries in the American Alpine Journal from 2005 to 2015 for her significant climbs in Alaska, Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and China.
Taniguchi's essay "Being with the Mountain" appears in our latest issue, Alpinist 52—Winter 2015, as part of a feature on modern women alpinists titled "Freedom in the Hills."
"To me, exploring unknown mountains resembles life itself," she wrote in Alpinist 52. "Like many people, I exist, today, entangled in immense infrastructures of data. But I'd like my future to remain mysterious. I want to visit regions with the least available information—to encounter raw nature as it truly is. When I begin to see and touch the land, I'll start discovering what I can do, how I can climb beyond the imaginable."
[Read "Being with the Mountain," from Alpinist 52 here—Ed.]
Taniguchi's story "Being with the Mountain" in Alpinist 52—Winter 2015.
Taniguchi's Selected Climbs (From Alpinist 52)
2005: Second ascent in alpine style of the southeast ridge of Muztagh Ata (7546m), Kun Lun, China; and partial new route on the north face of Shivling (6543m), Himachal Pradesh, India, with Kazuya Hiraide.
2008: First ascent of the Samurai Direct (M5+ AI5, 1800m), Southeast Face, Kamet (7756m) Garhwal Himalaya, India, with Kazuya Hirade, receiving a 2009 Piolet d'Or.
2011: First south-to-north traverse of Naimona'nyi (Gurla Mandhata, 7694m), Tibet, including the first ascent of Gurla's south summit, Naofeng Peak (7422m), with Kazuya Hiraide.
2014: First ascent of Mansail (6242m), Mustang region, Nepal, as the technical advisor to four female college students, Eri Hasegawa, Yukiko Inoue, Kaho Mishima and Mariko Nakamura.
2014: First ascents of the Wasabi Concerto (AI4+ M5+ R) and the Wasabi Sonatine (WI4 M4) on the northeast buttress of Peak 11,300'; a possible new variation, the Wasabi Prelude (V 60 degrees), on the south face and a repeat of the east face (WI4 AI5 M5) of Mt. Dan Beard (10,260'), Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska, with Junji Wada, earning a Piolet d'Or Asia.
————————————————————————————————————
The journalist and historian Luca Signorelli, who climbed with Taniguchi in Italy's Susa Valley in 2010, writes:
"She was a beautiful, intelligent, strong and cheerful woman, a great climber and a popular and skillful mountain bicycling tour guide. Kei's humor, grace and charm will indeed stay with me forever."
[Read more about Taniguchi's life and climbs on pioletsdor.com—Ed.]
