泰国古迹志 | 清迈古城诸寺 temples of Chiang Mai's old town - 走出国门 - 8264户外手机版

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本文英文内容整理自网络,为确保原文准确性不进行翻译;图片均为笔者拍摄,盗用必究。


卷首语群山合围的盆地总在酝酿某种秘而不宣的智慧,清迈古城静静躺在湄平河的臂弯里,任由七百个春秋在佛塔尖顶结成蛛网。当暮色浸透一座座古刹的金箔飞檐,城墙砖缝里滋长的青苔便泛着青铜器般的光泽,像无数双古老的眼睛凝视着被岁月反复摩挲过的兰纳遗韵。在十三世纪的风云激荡中,孟莱王挥剑斩断缠绕古城的藤蔓,将佛陀的种子播撒在素贴山下,让白象驮来的佛经落地生根,兰纳王朝的黄金时代在清迈盆地铺展开来,晨钟暮鼓惊醒了沉睡的群山,三百座佛寺如莲花般次第绽放,南邦窑火将菩萨低眉的姿态烧制成永恒,夜丰颂的山民将梵音织入筒裙纹样,至于湄平河也不甘示弱,用粼粼波光誊写贝叶经卷。直到某天来自素可泰的商贾在城门下瞠目——惊觉这里早已不是蛮荒边陲,这座用木石与信仰搭建的都城,竟让莽林深处开出了比南方更璀璨的文明之花。

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25

Wat Chetta

This chedi is located in the Puttisopen School next to the intersection of Prapokklao Road and Ratchamanka Road, and no relevant information has been found. Its structure and shape are the same as other pagodas in the ancient city.

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24

Wat Phan On &

Wat Muen Lan

Due to the fact that it was only filmed from a distance rather than entering for a visit, it can only be considered as a place visited during this trip.

Wat Phan On is close to the Thapae Gate which only has a viharn and a chedi.

The viharn is built on two floors with only the ground floor accessible. The tiled roof is in three tiers and split into three sections with the bargeboards decorated by nagas and the roof ends have eagle chofa heads. The lavishly decorated gabled end consists of intricate gilt carving. The door and windows have ornate gilt carved decoration with flower motifs around the frame and above the lintel where there are also carved figures. The figure above the main door is that of the God Rahu who is responsible for eclipses and as usual is portrayed swallowing the sun and surrounded by clouds.

The old stone chedi now called the Sareerikkatsrtsirirak as named by his late majesty the King, was badly damaged around 10 years ago due to excessive rain penetration and was in danger of complete collapse so it was rebuilt in the form which we see today.

It's now completely covered in gold cladding which presents a dazzling spectacle especially when the sun is shining. The style is of the common, layered, square base type with indented corners rising to support a hexagonal mid-section with large niches to house Buddha images extending out from the base on each side.

Wat Muen Lan is located across the street from Wat Phan On. The front gabled end has intricately carved foliate decoration covering its face but the gilt has mostly faded leaving the bare wood showing. In the front is a carved peacock with its feathers displayed in blue but most of the colouring has now disappeared.

The chedi of Wat Muen Lan has a wide square, layered base in whitewash, mostly faded, with indented corners which supports a large bell structure. The top of the bell is covered in a mosaic of different coloured pieces of glass and porcelain with the gold and blues having somewhat lost their sparkle. The finial appears to be made of wood and has lost its covering of gilt as has the hti umbrella at the top.

It has a square base with a number of layers rising in diminishing size which supports the mid-section which is smooth with old stucco in place. This section is made up of a number of square pilasters between which stand two large Devata figures with hands clasped in front of them. In the middle is a large niche which surrounds including its arch has much crumbled away. Inside a black Buddha image has been installed. Around the base are placed numerous small Buddha images.

The chedi is massive and showing its bare brick without a covering of stucco. The upper part of the chedi is rounded with layers tapering towards the top where an impressive gilt finial has been placed in the Burmese style.

The altar has a large Buddha image sitting on a high base in the basic meditation posture; Dhyanna mudra, and three smaller images in front, two of which are standing and each in different mudras. Lights illuminate the images in the dark room and accentuate the richness of the shining gilt and encourages worship and meditation.

The front gable end is very attractive with intricately carved, stucco decoration in relief, on the wood surface. This consists of floral motifs, some highlighted with coloured glass. Floral capitals of the lotus top the two columns either side of the door.

Above the door are rich carvings of animals and Devata figures and above this on the gable end are panels containing carvings depicting scenes from the Buddhist texts.

The interior is dark as with the black lacquered teak making up the walls and columns, and the windows are small and with wooden bars. The walls have carved panels depicting scenes from the Buddhist texts and the ceiling sparkles with panels of multi-colored glass.

The viharn is made of teak, covered in black lacquer, in the Lanna style with a overlapping roof consisting of several tiers with a steep pitch and sweeping very low almost to the ground. The bargeboards are decorated with naga whose scaly bodies consist of many different coloured pieces of glass. At the apex of each tier are chofa, eagle finials with wind-bells.

The entrance is guarded by two nagas in plain stucco, and each side of the steps are two Tagundaing style, decorative poles about 20 feet high depicting animals of the Thai zodiac and topped with a hamsa.

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