四姑娘山幺妹峰西南山脊登顶报告更正：登顶者为美国人 27楼更新攀登报告及图片 - 山伍成群

darkblueocean
2008-10-23 15:58 正序浏览 120071人浏览

　　Day seven included the mixed climbing crux of the route, two pitches of snowy rock (M5) to gain the crest above the seracs on the north side of the ridge. The weather continued to provide snow flurries and no visibility. We enjoyed absolutely classic alpine ridge climbing for the second half of the day. Hundreds of meters of happy cowboys (riding the crest like a bull) on both snow and rock, hooking tools on the crest, and navigating rocks and cornices. Camp 7, on a glacial shelf at 18,300 feet, offered the first flat ground we'd set foot on since base camp.

　　第7天包括了很多混合路线中的难点攀登，攀过两段绳距的冰岩混合路线(难度M5)，我们到达这条山脊北面上的一个冰塔。天气依然很糟，风雪大作，白茫茫的一片，可见度基本为零。但下午典型的阿式路线让我们感到很兴奋，数百米高的"快乐的牛仔"（因为骑在上边就像骑着头牛）塔的两边一边是冰雪覆盖，一边是裸露的岩石，用锁具钩在岩顶上，行走在岩石和雪檐之上，那感觉棒极了。我们在岩石阶上面海拔5578米的冰川庇护下搭建了7号营地，这是我们从大本营出发后第一次露宿在平坦的地方，其他夜晚都是在悬崖上度过的。

第七天攀登至happy cowboy处

　　On the morning of day eight (despite being three days behind schedule) we cached our camp and set off for the summit amid yet another whiteout. We were quite thankful the ridge was so well defined, as we could climb in poor weather and stay on route. Snow and ice runnels bisecting the upper rock steps led to a happy cowboy finale followed by a mixed traverse on the south face. By mid afternoon we reached the summit seracs. A short vertical ice pitch provided access to the upper snow slopes, and we traversed north under the false summit, reaching the rimed summit at 4:35 p.m. Promptly encouraged by the darkening wall of hate boiling and flashing to the west, we began our descent. Just before dark we reached the happy cowboy as the lightning storm worsened and drew close, striking the ridge several times directly above our heads. We took refuge on the mixed traverse south of the crest and waited for the lightening to subside. One hour later we dashed across the happy cowboy and continued rappelling towards our high camp cache. By 11:00 p.m., at 19,000 feet in stormy weather, we could not find the gully leading down to the high camp cache. We spent the night climbing and down climbing the sixty-degree snow in an attempt to stay warm. At dawn, both encrusted in rime ourselves, the clouds parted and we saw the route down to high camp.

　　第8天的早上（尽管比原定计划晚了3天），天气仍然一片乳白，我们安置好帐篷开始发起冲顶计划。幸亏这条攀登线路是如此的明了，没有让我们在可见度很低的情况下迷路。布满积雪和冰沟的岩石阶组成了happy cowboy最后的一段下降，顺利地横切过南面的混合路面，下午时分我们到达了顶峰冰塔下边。经过一段绳距的攀冰路线到达了上边的雪坡，然后向北横切过假顶，下午4：35分，我们终于到达了真正的顶点。看着天色渐晚，我们开始迅速下撤。在天全黑以前我们返回到了"快乐的牛仔"，当时电闪雷鸣，雷电几次击中我们上边的岩石，我们只好暂时躲避一下。我们躲在那段向南横切的山脊那等待雷雨的平息。1小时后我们匆匆的横穿"快乐的牛仔"，继续用绳索下降，试图回到我们的高山营地。晚上11点时，在海拔5791米的暴风雪天气中，我们找不到用来下降到7号营地我们放置宿营设备那里的那条雪槽了。为了保持体温，我们整个晚上都在60度的雪坡中爬上爬下。拂晓时分，我们两个人身上都早已结了一层冰霜，像盔甲。乌云渐渐散去，我们终于找到了到达营地的路线。

第8天Chad在领攀一段混合路线

在海拔5800米苦熬了一晚上之后的Chad

darkblueocean
10月23日

　　We topped out the wall after seventeen pitches in the middle of the fourth day, and from this point onward, the route changed to remarkable alpine ridge climbing while the weather deteriorated to white out fog and snow flurries. The rest of day four and all of day five were spent navigating the crest, weaving between dozens of gendarmes. This rock ridge, which we dubbed "The Rake"(after a similar peak in our local Cascade Mountains), ended at camp 5 (16,800') just before the notch below the upper mountain.

　　到第4天中午时分，经过17段绳距的攀登我们登顶大岩壁，但从这一点开始，路线变为典型的阿式高山路线了，同时天气恶化，浓雾弥漫，还飘着小雪。当天余下的时间和整个第5天，我们都在这个脊顶上度过，穿梭在数十个尖顶之间。我们称这个山脊为"The Rake"（因为和我们当地Cascade山区的一座山峰很相似）晚上我们宿营在海拔5121米的5号营地，紧挨着下一个山尖之间的凹谷部分。

　　Throughout day six the weather worsened to sleet with near zero visibility as we ascended through the notch and up a 500-foot verglassed rock step. The notch itself proved to be the crux of The Rake, with several outrageously slender gendarmes and much snow-covered rock. We chopped camp 6 (17,400') into the hanging glacier above the rock step.

　　更糟糕的坏天气持续了整个第6天，并且开始下起了冰雹，能见度几乎为零，我们艰难的穿过了凹谷部分，并在冻雨中向上爬了150多米的岩石阶。这些凹谷部分被证明是这条山脊路线"The Rake"的难点部分，上面散布着很多"蛮横"的尖峰和很多冰雪覆盖的岩石。接下来我们在岩石阶上放的进入悬冰川的地方宿营（6号营地，海拔5304米）。

Chad在第5天的攀登中

Dylan在6号营地处面对着将要攀登的刀锋型山脊

darkblueocean
10月23日

　　注：本文发表于《Climbing》杂志作者：Dylan Johnson
　　翻译：faye 大鹏 整理校队：大鹏
　　任何转载须注明文章出处及作者和译者，商业网站如需转载译文需征得译者同意，联系方式：dapeng@8264.com

远看四姑娘北壁

　　From September 21 through 30, Chad Kellogg and I completed the first ascent of the southwest ridge of Siguniang (6250m), Changping Valley, China. The route began with 2,500 feet of steep rainforest, weaving through cliff bands to the base of a granite wall at 14,200 feet. Making three bivis on the 2000-foot wall, we climbed a direct line through vertical crack systems with free climbing up to 5.11 and much A2 complicated by grass and moss in the cracks.

　　9月21到30号，Chad Kellogg和我完成了西姑娘山主峰幺妹峰（6250米）西南山脊路线的首登。这条路线从海拔762米的热带雨林开始，往上走岩石越来越多，我们选择在海拔4328米处的一花岗岩岩壁下建立大本营。这个岩壁高约610米，我们花了3天时间攀登。我们沿着一条垂直的裂缝路线交替保护攀登，难度达到了5.11，路线很复杂，高于A2,岩缝上长满了杂草和苔藓。

开始部分的600多米的大岩壁