本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-4 15:22 编辑
楼主写了这么多字，发了这么多图，但这并非专业的登山报告啊，我帮楼主补吧，这是发在JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2014上的登山报告，虽然粗糙，好歹还是篇报告
LIU YONG
China-Nepal team summit 6,400m Bamongo
in Nepal
On Oct. 30th 2013 Chinese climber Daliu (Liuyong) and two strong Nepalese alpinist Mingma Gyalje
and Pema Tshering Sherpa successfully made a beautiful direct route on 6,400 meters Mt. Bamongo in
Rolwaling valley, Nepal.
Team hiked 5 days to Bamongo,and set base camp at altitude of 4,800 meters.The weather was sunny
in the afternoon, but it started snow after we set our tents and it last for whole night.
Morning of the 28th of October, sun came out, team carried gear to higher place and check the
potential route, team hiked up to 4,900 meters and started to climb at a rock wall. After this class 5
rock route, team followed the right side of the huge glacier till to a big rock wall, then we climbed this
wall with heavy pack bag, it was around 80 meters steep wall with grade 5.8, but few parts are
vertical. We did two pitches climbing on the solid rock. It has some mix climbing because of the ice
on the wall.
When team finally arrived to altitude of 5,440 meters, the storm came, it was getting cold. Team
decided to fix their gear on the ice wall and get back to base camp.
We only spent 1.5 hour to get back to our camp. But the snow was getting bigger and bigger.
Fortunately it stopped around midnight.
Next morning, Daliu, Mingma and Pema started climb up around noon time with a tent on their bags,
they decided to set a high camp and tried to summit from the high camp. Team moved fast to 5,440 m
with only two hours. We checked the place and it sounds that was the only place we could set tent. We
spend one hour to clean the snow and ice for a nice campsite. Then we climbed up for 150 vertical
meters and find a good route to cross the huge tattered glacier to the south face of Bamongo.
Bamongo only has two possible route to climb. South (Nepal side) and north face (Tibetan side) are
very steep ice and snow wall. The long east and west ridge are connected with Kang Nuchego and
Chekigo. It seems too long to get to main summit.
The route we climbed is direct route from the south face to the west ridge lead to the top.
The summit day, team started climbing at 05:00 in the morning, it was cold but there was no big wind
at the beginning. We cross the glacier in the dark with short time. When we arrive the foot of south
face, the snow was very deep, it sounds there are many small avalanche from the face everyday. Three
of us tied up with one 60 meters rope. As soon as we start to climb on the face, snow conditions were
getting better. It was icy and has some hard snow. The angle of the face is from 40°up to 60°.
It was hard to find a flat place to stand, we tried our best to climb fast, because we didn’t bring our
sleeping bag and we want to make the summit within one day. So we had very few protection and
climb all the way with running belay.
There were some difficult parts on the route, we tried to avoid the rock band so we had to climb some
very steep ice, the ice was very dry which made the protection not enough easy and safe. But we
wished the condition would be better when we get to the ridge.
We arrived to the ridge around 11:20 with altitude of 6,000 meter. This is knife sharp ridge, snow was
very soft, but we still had 400 vertical meters to go. Meanwhile the big wind came from north side
with 80 km/h speed sometimes. It blew the soft power snow and we started to feel cold.
So we decided not to set belay station and tried to climb faster with running belay. There are some
steep part on the ridge that we had to stopped and let one climb at first and then other two could
followed.
We finally summated Bamongo at local time 14:35 on 30 th of October.
We spent 20 minutes on the top, and start to descend from the same way we came up. As soon as we
got back to the snow face, wind became smaller, so that we could descend safely.
We tried to clean everything, and we only had one 60 meters rope, so two of us repelled with single 60
meters rope and the last one clean the gear and down climbed. It was fast. We spent 7 hours to descend
back to base camp at 21:00.
This was 16 hours non-stop climbing, we didn’t even have time to drink and eat anything. Everybody
was exhausted but we were very happy to made the new direct route with only one day.
The route we climbed was 1,500 meters high, ED, 40° – 60°.
We named it “the road of Che Guevara”.
Mingma is strong climber, he likes climb new route but has not enough money for the expedition. This
time he also brought a client to this mountain. After we made the summit, he guided the client to climb
the same route again after two days, but they only arrived 5,750 meters because of the route was too
steep for the client.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dear Tom
I know Daliu well, having met him in Chamonix. I used his report and photos of Yangmolong. We
have been in contact about Bamongo since he returned to Kathmandu. Their route on the southwest
face is new, but it was not the first ascent of Bamongo. The first ascent (OK, the first known ascent)
was made some years ago by David Gottlier and Joe Puryear.
However, we think this might be the first new route climbed on the Nepalese side of the Nepal
HImalaya by a Chinese (a resident in China). I can’t at this moment think of any other. It was a good
effort: they climbed very fast.
Best Wishes
Lindsay Griffin 19/11/2013
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS ●
75
Start of the Glacier
Summit ridge
Climbing to the ridge
Mix climbing at 5,400 m
Daliu and Mingma on the top
