When climbers first climb steep ice they tend to ignore many of the principles of movement they have acquired in their rock climbing. Principles such as balance, precise footwork and weight transfer. Instead they tend to thump and whack at the ice with their crampons and AXEs, using brute strength to pull themselves up.
To a certain extent this crude approach will work – on short and not too steep ice climbs. As the climb becomes steeper or the ice more variable then this approach will cease to work as the climber finds their strength decreASIng markedly. Good technique is the key to using your physical reserves efficiently – a key aspect of leading steep ice.
攀冰者在最开始攀爬陡峭冰壁时，经常忽略那些他们在攀岩时必须用到的移动原则，比如保持平衡、精准的脚法和重量的转移。取而代之的则是用冰镐猛力砸冰和用冰爪使劲踢冰，用蛮力把自己拉上去。
这种粗犷的方式在那些距离短，而且不是很陡峭的冰壁上还算有效。但随着冰壁变得更陡峭或更多样，这种方法就不管用了，攀登者会发现他们的力量明显减弱。所以，好的攀冰技巧是有效地运用体力的关键，也是先锋陡峭冰壁的关键。
The Four Elements of Ice Climbing Technique
The core technique used for climbing steep ice is called “front pointing”. There are four main elements used in this core ice climbing movement technique. Combined together they allow the climber to move efficiently up their chosen ice climb.
All the elements are combined together using Agility,Balance and Co-ordination or ABC* which are defined as:
Agility: is the ability to change body position efficiently
Balance: is the ability to control the body's position, while either stationary or moving
Coordination:is the ability to integrate agility, balance, flexibility, ( + strength, power and endurance) so that effective movements are achieved.
Newbie ice climbers find the use of ice tools and crampons off putting at first, mostly due to how difficult they find understanding the feedback that comes from the tools and crampons. A key part of ice climbing is learning to 'feel' what your ice tools and crampons are doing. By 'feel' I mean knowing when your tool placements are good, bad, or indifferent or when your crampon points are securely placed in the ice and how your Centre of Mass and Weight Transfer is affecting these tool and crampon placements. The good news is it does not take long to start developing a practical 'feel' for how your ice tools and crampons are behaving.
攀冰技巧四要素
攀爬陡峭冰壁的核心技巧是“前踢式”攀爬。在这个攀冰的移动技巧中有四个关键要素。四要素相结合就能使攀爬者的移动变得更有效。
1. 冰爪的使用
2. 冰镐的使用
3. 重心（身体位置）
4. 转移体重
然后再通过灵活性（Agility）、平衡性（Balance）和协调性（Co-ordination），简称ABC，将这四要素结合在一起。灵活性、平衡性、协调性分别指的是：
灵活性：指的是有效改变身体位置的能力
平衡性：指的是在静态或动态中控制身体位置的能力
协调性：指的是将灵活性、平衡性、柔韧性、力量和耐力等进行整合，从而达到有效移动的能力
攀冰新手开始时会发现使用冰爪和冰镐非常不爽，大部分都是因为搞不清楚来自于冰镐和冰爪的反馈信息。因此，攀冰的一个重要部分就是学会“感知”你的冰爪和冰镐都在做什么。所谓“感知”，指的就是要知道什么时候你冰镐打入的位置和冰爪踢入的位置是好的，什么时候是坏的，或者无伤大雅的；什么时候冰爪踢入的点是安全的；或当你转移重量的时候，冰爪和冰镐的都受到了什么影响。而从积极的方面看，增进“感知”的练习并不会花太久的时间就能收到效果。
Core Ice Climbing Technique – The Triangle Position
At the centre of efficient ice climbing technique is the Triangle Position (Fig 1 and 2 shown below). This is the start and finish of a simple movement sequence involving the climber placing their ice tools and crampons. The climber's centre of mass (CM) is the 'glue' that binds the crampons and ice tools together and it's essential that the climber's CM is at, or close to the centre of this triangle to avoid the climber 'barn dooring' on steeper ice. To begin I'll discuss the overall movement pattern then analyse each discrete section.
攀冰核心技巧——三角站位
有效攀冰技巧的重点就在于保持三角形站位（如图一、二所示）。这是运用冰爪和冰镐进行攀登中简易移动过程的起始姿势和结束姿势。攀冰者的重心就是连接冰爪和冰镐的“胶水”。根本目的在于使攀冰者的重心正落在或靠近三角形的中心，借此来避免在陡峭冰壁上“开门”。我将从全面讨论移动模式展开，然后再对每个要素进行逐个分析。
Ice Climbing General Movement Pattern:
I should stress that this is the core movement pattern. In practice you will find that this pattern has to be adapted to suit the ice conditions (brittle ice vs plastic), nature of the ice (featured vs uniform sheet) etc. But I would suggest you need to have the basic pattern sorted before you can adapt it for the many and varied conditions you are sure to encounter when climbing ice.
That proviso aside we'll look at the individual components in detail.
攀冰移动模式总览：
