国内一流高手和世界一流高手相比较攀登能力到底差多远 - 山伍成群 - 8264户外手机版

这个比较估计我不做的话，应该没人会做，当事人即使在国内的登山报告里也不愿提及自己的技术参数
同时这个帖子也解释了严冬冬、周鹏看似很牛逼的线路为啥只能得象征金冰镐

以下针对幺妹不同线路进行技术参数比较
信息均摘录自国外权威杂志：AAJ, AJ, JAC

国内一流高手：==========

严冬冬、周鹏
On November 23rd to 27th, 2009, Zhou Peng and I climbed the Central South Face route (M4 AI3+ VI,
l,OOOm of elevation from bergschund to the summit) of the 6,250m Siguniang (aka Yaomei Feng), the
main peak of the Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains) massif in Sichuan, China.

孙斌
We named our 1,100m route Liberation (AI3+ M4).
Su n Bin , China

（注：比严冬冬、周鹏的线路少了VI）

世界一流高手
==========

两届金冰镐得主
Siguniang, China
Mick Fowler & Paul Ramsden (GB)
First Ascent of the Nord Face central couloir of Siguniang, Descent via the North Ridge.
Length and grade: 1500m, ED+ VII/AI6/M6.
Duration: 14-21 April 2002. 7 days. 6 nights on the face, 2 days descent.

2009俄罗斯北壁直上
We named our route Bloody Sunset (1,150m, VI A4 90°). It has 14 pitches on rock, and then
four steep ice and mixed pitches in the upper couloir to reach the snow/ice ramp, which although
steep, proved to be comparatively straightforward. This route was the hardest big-wall effort of my
life, and I was pleased when we were awarded first prize in the Russian Championships.
A n d r e y M u r y sh e v , Russia

2011法国西北壁
We named the route Ni Hen Piao Liang (Chinese for You Are Very Pretty, 1,300m, AI5，M6).

2008西南山脊
Southwest ridge (1,900m, 5.11 A2 AI3+ M5, Johnson-Kellogg, 2008)

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Kyle starting another fantastic mixed pitch, this one protectable with stubbies.。。。。。。。。。。。。。。。

本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-17 14:18 编辑

雪莲西峰金冰镐技术参数：
China, Tien Shan in Xinjiang, Xueliang West (6,422m), the first ascent of “ The Great White Jade Heist”(2,700m, WIS M6 5.7R) on the north face, 24-30 August 2009, Bruce Normand, Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster. This climb was awarded the 18th Piolets d’Or in April 2010.
。。。。
雪莲西峰4000x3000超清登顶路线图，包括每一个攀登节点和保护点，极珍贵资料，首发8264要是可以设置下载分数，应该设置到100以上，请版主考虑
。。。。

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光有参数不过瘾，以下提供2002幺妹金冰镐线路高清大图，共国内有志重复该线路的好手参考。。。。

其它山峰比较：
=========

首登线路描述及命名：2013年1月27日12:32分，李渊、郑朝辉，张小辉登顶白马雪山主峰扎拉雀尼峰，攀登线路为东壁岩雪槽直上转东北山脊，实测海拔5482m，难度定级：WI4+/M4+/70°/1100m术语含义解析“难度级别，季节性冰4+，混合攀4+,最大角度接近70度，线路长度1100米

央莫龙首登技术参数：
Difficulties were probably around TD, 5.6 WI3 M4, and while established sources quote
a summit altitude of 6,060m or 6,066m, our GPS read 6,080m. The technical
climbing started at 5,150m.

雪莲西峰金冰镐技术参数：
China, Tien Shan in Xinjiang, Xueliang West (6,422m), the first ascent of “ The Great White Jade Heist”(2,700m, WIS M6 5.7R) on the north face, 24-30 August 2009, Bruce Normand, Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster. This climb was awarded the 18th Piolets d’Or in April 2010.

贡嘎6134峰
China, Sichuan Province, Minya Konka Massif, Pt. 6,134m, the first ascent of the peak via the
Southwest Pillar "Carte Blanche" (1,100m, 6b/6c=5.13b, M10 A2), 8-13 May 2009, Alexander Ruchkin and
Mikhail Mikhailov