一条人类经过30年共尝试25次才成功的高海拔技术线路(线路、照片、视频、参数、历史) - 山伍成群 - 8264户外手机版

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本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 14:46 编辑

PART I 线路介绍(含技术参数)

鲨鱼鳍峰中央直上....
The Shark’s Fin on 6,310m Meru Central (VII, 5.10 A4 M6 WI5) by Conrad Anker,
Jimmy Chin, and Renan OZTurk. They reached the summit on October 2, 2011, during a
12-day push. An estimated 25 attempts have been made on this wall since the early 1980s,
including three by this Expedition’s members in the previous seven years. Reports on
Anker and team’s previous attempts can be read in AAJ 2004 (pg 378) and AAJ 2009 (pg
309). The 1993 British expedition led by Paul Pritchard coined the name The Shark Fin
(no apostrophe) for the east pillar of then-unclimbed Meru Central.

.......
PART II 视频(含登顶线路动画演示)
http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNDcwODMzODA4.html

在政治登山的影响下 国内的和国外的登山界大环境还是有差距 可喜的是国内的民间登山界正在不断进步

认同你的看法,哈哈!
本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-19 11:46 编辑

好吧,我服了,别跟我说是王勇峰或者李致新啊
7+2还有14座8000米那是拿来蒙事的
现在全球登顶珠峰的该过万了吧?
有什么盲人、没腿的、无氧的、南北穿越的、还有滑雪下来的,
让他们再爬一遍珠峰,指定线路:西南壁线路(Haston-Scott-Boardman-Pertemba-Burke于1975年首攀)
能上去的人大概现在没一个吧,哈哈
========================================
Russian Climber Alexey Bolotov Dies on Everest
BY STEVE CASIMIRO MAY 15, 20132 COMMENTS
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2013denisurubkoalexeybolotov...

This morning, Alexey Bolotov and Denis Urubko were to set out for a 10-day attempt on an unclimbed line on Mt. Everest’s Southwest Face. Sadly, when a Sherpa accompanying Bolotov (at right in blue, with Urubko) went to look for him this morning, he discovered that Bolotov had fallen from their Camp 1 site into the Khumbu Icefall, where he died instantly.
The early reports are short on details, but Urubko said that Bolotov was descending a rope that was stretched over a sharp rock edge and broke, sending Bolotov about 1,000 feet into the icefall.

“He was a true legend and hugging goodbye at Base Camp was a very sad feeling,” photographer Jon Griffith, who was part of the team involved in the infamous fracas with Sherpas last month, wrote on Facebook. “He was quiet but pensive; when he spoke you listened. He had a smile that shone though a lifetime of good times: vodka with friends, pushing alpine boundaries, and a general love of life. I only hope that at his age I will be able to have the same smile, humility, and happiness that shone through him. He was one of the ‘greats’ and not just in a climbing sense.”

Bolotov, 50, was one of Russian’s top alpinists. He won a Piolets d’Or, climbing’s top award, in 1998 for an ascent of Makulu’s West Face and another in 2004 for a the first traverse of Jannu’s North Face. He’s survived by his wife and two children.

The planned Southwest Face route:

.... 此次,Bolotov和Urubko计划采用阿尔卑斯方式在山峰西南壁,西南壁线路(Haston-Scott-Boardman-Pertemba-Burke于1975年首攀)和南山肩路线(Czok-Kukuczka于1980年首攀)之间开辟一条新线路。
.....


在国家体育总局里吧

那在哪?在军队里???!!!!

国内的登山高手不在民间!
本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 16:34 编辑

可以思考一下,老外(那个Jim Chin看着象华人)为什么在这么高难的线路上经过这么多次攀登(其中俄罗斯人是单人solo登顶并获得金冰镐奖),没出过啥大差错,而咱们的国内高手却在婆缪、党结真拉、幺妹峰的低难度线路、(天山那个冰裂缝就更不可思议了)上精锐尽折、元气大伤,这应该不能全怪运气差吧?
本帖最后由 096 于 2015-1-18 16:19 编辑

PART VIII 历年攀登历史全面总结
。。。


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