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ANCHORS
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-97-61/ch5.htm
登山中常用的保护站
翻译 芽子
Section I. NATURAL ANCHORS
Natural anchors should be considered for use first. They are usually strong and often simple to construct with minimal use of equipment. Trees, boulders, and other terrain irregularities are already in place and simply require a method of attaching the rope. However, natural anchors should be carefully studied and evaluated for stability and strength before use. Sometimes the climbing rope is tied directly to the anchor, but under most circumstances a sling is attached to the anchor and then the climbing rope is attached to the sling with a carabiner(s).
第一部分：自然锚点保护站
自然锚点保护站应该首先被想到并加以利用。一般来说，自然锚点保护站都很结实，而且用相对最少的装备就可以建立起来。树、大石头和其他不规则的地形已经摆各就其位，只需要一些简单的方法将绳子与其连接就可以了。尽管如此，在使用这些自然锚点保护站之前，应该对它的结实程度和稳定性进行仔细地研究和评估。有时候，主绳是直接与保护站进行连接的，但在大多数的情况下，都是先用绳套与保护站进行连接，然后再通过主锁将绳套与主绳进行连接。
1. TREES
Trees are probably the most widely used of all natural anchors depending on the terrain and geographical region. However, trees must be carefully checked for suitability.
a. In rocky terrain, trees usually have a shallow root system. This can be checked by pushing or tugging on the tree to see how well it i rooted. Anchoring as low as possible to prEVENT excess leverage on the tree may be necessary.
b. Use padding on soft, sap producing trees to keep sap off ropes and slings.
1.用树做保护站
依地形和地理位置来看，树可能是被应用得最为广泛的自然锚点。但是，再使用树做自然锚点保护站之前必须要先对它的结实程度进行检查。
a. 在岩石地形，树木的根系通常都比较浅。可以通过推拉树木来检查根系是否适合做保护站。保护站应尽量建立在接近树根的位置，这样可以防止出现杠杆作用。
b. 用软的东西将绳子垫起来，如果树是能够产生树液的那种，也要用将树液和绳子、绳套隔离开来。
2. BOULDERS
Boulders and rock nubbins make ideal anchors. The rock can be firmly tapped with a piton hammer to ensure it is solid. Sedimentary and other loose rock formations are not stable. Talus and scree fields are an indiCATor that the rock in the area is not solid. All areas around the rock formation that could cut the rope or sling should be padded.
2. 用大石头做保护站
大石头和石凸都是理想的保护站。可以用岩锤敲击石头来确保它是否结实。沉积岩和一些比较疏松的岩层是不太稳固的。乱石坡或岩屑堆都暗示着这一地区的岩石不太牢固。这种岩层周围地区的石头都可能割坏绳子或绳套，所以绳子或绳套也应该垫起来。
3. CHOCKSTONES
A chockstone is a rock that is wedged in a crack because the crack narrows downward . Chockstones should be checked for strength, security, and and should always be tested before use. All chockstones must be and strong enough to support the load. They must have maximum surface contact and be well tapered with the surrounding rock to remain in position.
a. Chockstones are often directional—they are secure when pulled in one direction but may pop out if pulled in another direction.
b. A creative climber can often make his own chockstone by wedging a rock into position, tying a rope to it, and clipping on a carabiner.
c. Slings should not be wedged between the chockstone and the rock wall since a fall could cut the webbing runner.
3. 用岩缝楔石做保护站
因为岩缝下部变窄，石头卡在缝隙里，就形成了岩缝楔石。这样的石头在使用前也应该测试它的强度、安全性和是否易碎。岩缝楔石必须要结实、牢固，可以承重。石块与岩缝的接触面积应尽量的大，并被逐渐变小的岩缝卡住以保持位置不变。
a. 裂缝里的石头通常都是有方向性的——在向某一个方向受力的时候是稳定安全的，而向另一个方向受力时就可能就会弹出来。
b. 有想法的攀登者可以经常通过把石块楔入岩缝来建立自己的岩缝楔石，然后将绳子绑在楔石上，再挂上一把主锁。
c. 绳套不要卡在楔石与岩壁之间，这样的话，一旦发生冲追就可能切割到绳套。
4. ROCK PROJECTIONS
Rock projections (sometimes called nubbins) often provide suitable protection. These include blocks, flakes, horns, and spikes. If rock projections are used, their firmness is important. They should be checked for cracks or weathering that may impair their firmness. If any of these signs exist, the projection should be avoided.
4. 用岩石凸出做保护站
岩石凸出通常是比较适合用来做保护站的。岩石凸出包括石块、石片、石角和石柱。如果要使用岩石凸出来做保护站，岩石的结实程度是要点。要注意检查岩石凸出是否存在裂缝或风化，因为裂缝和风化都可能会削弱凸出的坚固程度。如果岩石有裂缝或风化的迹象，就不应该再用它们做保护站了。
5. TUNNELS AND ARCHES
Tunnels and arches are holes formed in solid rock and provide one of the more secure anchor points because they can be pulled in any direction. A sling is threaded through the opening hole and secured with a joining knot or girth hitch. The load-bearing hole must be strong and free of sharp edges (pad if necessary).
5. 用石洞和石拱做保护站
石洞和石拱门都是形成于坚石之上的孔，但因为它们的受力方向不唯一，所以它们是更为结实的保护站。将绳套穿过开孔，再将绳套系上连接结或套结。用于承重的开孔必须要足够结实，而且开孔表面还要圆滑没有尖角（如果需要，也可以垫一下）。
6. BUSHES AND SHRUBS
If no other suitable anchor is available, the roots of bushes can be used by routing a rope around the bases of several bushes. As with trees, the anchoring rope is placed as low as possible to reduce leverage on the anchor. All vegetation should be healthy and well rooted to the ground.
6. 用灌木和矮树丛做保护站
如果没有其他适合的保护站可用，那灌木的树根也是可以利用的。将绳子绕过几棵灌木的底部，和绕过大树一样，绳子要尽量靠近下面，也是避免杠杆作用。所用的灌木应该都是健康的灌木，灌木都应该很好地植根于泥土之中。
7. SLINGING TECHNIQUES
Three methods are used to attach a sling to a natural anchor—drape, wrap, and girth. Whichever method is used, the knot is set off to the side where it will not interfere with normal carabiner movement. The carabiner gate should face away from the ground and open away from the anchor for easy insertion of the rope. When a locking carabiner cannot be used, two carabiners are used with gates opposed. Correctly opposed gates should open on opposite sides and form an "X" when opened.
7. 绳套技术
绳套与自然锚点连接通常采用三种方法——挂、缠、套。但不论使用哪种方法，打结的绳头都应该放到一边，不能影响到主锁的活动。主锁的锁门应该与地面反向，锁门的开口应朝向保护站，这样会比较容易地放入主绳。如果没有可以锁住的主锁时，可以使用两把散锁代替，两把散锁的锁门要开口相反。如此放置的锁门在锁门打开时，锁门会呈“X”形。
a. Drape. Drape the sling over the anchor. Untying the sling and routing it around the anchor and then retying is still considered a drape.
b. Wrap. Wrap the sling around the anchor and connect the two ends together with a carabiner(s) or knot.
c. Girth. Tie the sling around the anchor with a girth hitch. Although a girth hitch reduces the strength of the sling, it allows the sling to remain in position and not slide on the anchor.
a.
挂。将绳套挂在保护站上。先解开绳套，然后绕过保护站，再将绳套系起来，这样的方法就是挂。
b.
缠。将绳套绕保护站一圈/几圈，再将绳子两头系在一起或用主锁连接。
c. 套。用套结将绳套绕在保护站上。尽管套结可能会降低绳套的强度，但套结可以固定绳套的位置，防止绳套在保护站上滑动。
Section II. ANCHORING WITH THE ROPE
The climbing or installation rope can be tied directly to the anchor using several different techniques. This requires less equipment, but also sacrifices some rope length to tie the anchor. The rope can be tied to the anchor using an appropriate anchor knot such as a bowline or a rerouted figure eight. Round turns can be used to help keep the rope in position on the anchor. A tensionless anchor can be used in high-load installations where tension on the attachment point and knot is undesirable.
第二部分：用绳索建立保护站
通过几种不同的技巧，主绳可以直接与保护站进行连接。这样做的优点是不需要很多的装备，但缺点就是这样会牺牲绳子的长度。恰当使用布林结或双八字结，可以用绳子和保护站连接。在保护站上多绕一圈/几圈可以固定绳索在保护站上的位置。无张力保护站可以使用在需要高负载的保护站架设上，因为高负载保护站的绳结和连接处最好不受力。
8. ROPE ANCHOR
When tying the climbing or installation rope around an anchor, the knot should be placed approximately the same distance away from the anchor as the diameter of the anchor. The knot shouldn't be placed up against the anchor because this can stress and distort the knot under tension.
8. 用绳子做保护站
在系主绳或将主绳绕过保护站的时候，所系的绳结应该与保护站保持一定距离，距离约与保护站的直径相同。绳结不应该与保护站相接触，否则，在拉紧绳子的时候绳结会受压变形。
The tensionless anchor is used to anchor the rope on high-load installations such as bridging and traversing. The wraps of the rope around the anchor absorb the tension of the installation and keep the tension off the knot and carabiner. The anchor is usually tied with a minimum of four wraps, more if necessary, to absorb the tension. A smooth anchor may require several wraps, whereas a rough barked tree might only require a few. The rope is wrapped from top to bottom. A fixed loop is placed into the end of the rope and attached loosely back onto the rope with a carabiner.
9.用绳子架设无张力保护站
无张力保护站是一种用在高负载保护站上的架设方法，而这种高负载保护站通常是用在架桥或横渡上。缠绕在保护站上的绳圈可以吸收保护站安装系统中的张力，避免绳结和主锁受力。为了吸收张力，这种保护站通常最少要缠绕4圈，根据需要还可以再多缠圈。如果保护站的摩擦力比较小，那就可能需要缠更多圈，相反，如果是树皮较为粗糙的大树则可能不需要缠那么多。绳子要由上至下缠绕。被固定的绳索位于绳子的末端，然后用主锁将放松的绳头扣回绳子。
Section III. ARTIFICIAL ANCHORS
Using artificial anchors becomes necessary when natural anchors are unavailable. The art of choosing and placing good anchors requires a great deal of practice and experience. Artificial anchors are available in many different types such as pitons, chocks, hexcentrics, and SLCDs. Anchor strength varies greatly; the type used depends on the terrain, equipment, and the load to be placed on it.
第三部分：人工保护站
在自然锚点无法使用的时候，就需要使用人工锚点了。如何选择、如何放置好的人工锚点则需要大量的练习和经验。人工锚点的种类有很多，包括岩钉、岩楔、六角形岩塞和机械塞等。各种锚点的优势迥异，而至于使用哪种锚点，则要取决于地形、装备，还有要承受的重量等因素。
10. DEADMAN
A "deadman" anchor is any solid object buried in the ground and used as an anchor.
a. An object that has a large surface area and some length to it works best. (A hefty timber, such as a railroad tie, would be ideal.) Large boulders can be used, as well as a bundle of smaller tree limbs or poles. As with natural anchors, ensure timbers and tree limbs are not dead or rotting and that boulders are solid. Equipment, such as skis, ice axes, snowshoes, and ruck sacks, can also be used if necessary.
b. In extremely hard, rocky terrain (where digging a trench would be impractical, if not impossible) a variation of the deadman anchor can be constructed by building above the ground. The sling is attached to the anchor, which is set into the ground as deeply as possible. Boulders are then stacked on top of it until the anchor is strong enough for the load. Though normally not as strong as when buried, this method can work well for light-load installations as in anchoring a hand line for a stream crossing.
10. 用锚定桩做保护站
“锚定桩”保护站是将任何一种东西埋入地下，并以此来做锚点的保护站。
a. 这个做锚点的东西最好有较大的表面积，且同时具有一定长度。（铁道枕木那样的大木头就非常理想。）可以用大石头来做锚点，同样，也可以将树枝或木棍捆成一捆儿。和使用自然锚点一样，要确保所用木头和树枝都不是枯木或腐木，要确保大石头也是结实的石头。如果有必要，雪板、冰镐、雪鞋和背包等装备也可以用来做锚点。
b. 在那种无法挖坑、又坚硬的岩石地形，为了适应环境需要，也可以将锚定桩保护站建立在地面上。充当锚定桩的物体还是应量埋在地下，用绳套与其连接。然后将大石头压在锚定桩上，直到它足够结实，可以承重。尽管这样的保护站并不如完全埋在地下的“锚定桩”结实，但如果所需负载的重量比较轻的时候，这样的保护站也是管用的，就像过河的时候架设的手拉绳索保护站一样。
11. PITONS
Pitons have been in use for over 100 years. Although still available, pitons are not used as often as other types of artificial anchors due primarily to their impact on the environment. Most climbers prefer to use chocks, SLCDs and other artificial anchors rather than pitons because they do not scar the rock and are easier to remove. Eye protection should always be worn when driving a piton into rock.
a. Advantages. Some advantages in using pitons are:
than other types of artificial anchors.b. Disadvantages. Some disadvantages in using pitons are:
c. Piton Placement. The proper positioning or placement of pitons is critical. Picture shows examples of piton placement.) Usually a properly sized piton for a rock crack will fit one half to two thirds into the crack before being driven with the piton hammer. This helps ensure the depth of the crack is adequate for the size piton selected. As pitons are driven into the rock the pitch or sound that is made will change with each hammer blow, becoming higher pitched as the piton is driven in.
(1) Test the rock for soundness by tapping with the hammer. Driving pitons in soft or rotten rock is not recommended. When this type of rock must be used, clear the loose rock, dirt, and debris from the crack before driving the piton completely in.
(2) While it is being driven, attach the piton to a sling with a carabiner (an old carabiner should be used, if available) so that if the piton is knocked out of the crack, it will not be lost. The greater the resistance overcome while driving the piton, the firmer the anchor will be. The holding power depends on the climber placing the piton in a sound crack, and on the type of rock. The piton should not spread the rock, thereby loosening the emplacement.
(3) Military mountaineers should practice emplacing pitons using either hand. Sometimes a piton cannot be driven completely into a crack, because the piton is too long. Therefore, it should be tied off using a hero-loop (an endless piece of webbing) . Attach this loop to the piton using a girth hitch at the point where the piton enters the rock so that the girth hitch is snug against the rock. Clip a carabiner into the loop.a. 优点。使用岩顶有如下优点：
b. 缺点。使用岩钉有如下缺点。
c. 岩钉的放置。岩钉打入的位置着放置的方法是放置岩钉的关键。通常，判断岩钉的尺寸是否正确，要在不用锤子敲打岩钉的情况下，将岩钉插入岩缝，且可以插入岩钉长度的一半或三分之二。这样一来，也确定了岩缝的深度和所选择的岩钉的型号是否匹配。将岩钉打入岩石的过程中，敲击声也会跟着发生改变，音调会变得越来越高。
(1) 先用锤子轻叩石头，检查石头是否牢固。不要将岩钉打入岩质很软或酥松的石头。但如果必须要在这样的岩缝上打岩钉的话，就一定要在打岩钉前将已经松动了的石头、浮土、岩缝里面的碎石全部清理干净。
(2) 在将岩钉打入岩石时，先用主锁将岩钉和绳套连接（如果可以，应该尽量用旧的主锁），这样做的目的是以防万一岩钉没有打入裂缝弹出丢失。打入岩钉时遇到的阻力越大，打入的岩钉就会越结实。岩钉的承重能力取决于岩石的种类、岩石是否结实，以及岩钉的放置。打入的岩钉不能扩大岩缝，不然放置的岩钉也会变松。
(3) 军队的攀登者除了应该熟练操作右手打岩钉，同时也应掌握左手打岩钉。有时候，岩钉可能太长了，可能无法完全打入岩缝。这时候，就需要用扁带系个“英雄套”。将绳套用系套结套在岩钉与岩面接触的位置，这样系套结就可以紧贴着岩面了。然后再在绳套上挂上一把主锁。
d. 测试。要测试岩钉是否打好，以拎起大概1米的主绳或用一根扁带。将这段绳子穿过连接在岩钉的主锁，然后握住离主锁至少半米的地方，使劲猛力向各个方向（向上拉、向下拉、向两边拉、向外拉）拉动绳子，这时候要注意观察岩钉的情况，观察它是否发生移动。根据情况，反复多试几次。然后再轻叩岩钉，判断岩钉的声音是否发生了改变。如果岩钉的声音发生改变了，那就再继续将岩钉尽可能地打得更深。如果声音没有发生变化，那就说明岩钉的放置可能是安全的。如果有任何迹象表明岩钉发生了移动或觉得岩钉的固定有任何疑问，那就要换个地方再重新打入岩钉。在测试岩钉之前，要先找个安全的姿势。这种测试方法是用来测试全方位保护站的（既向哪个方向拉拽都可以的保护站）。但有时候，比如，在自由攀登或人工攀登的时候，如果用岩楔来做某一个特定方向上受力的保护站时，一定要着重测试那个可能会受力的方向。
Chock craft has been in use for many decades. A natural chockstone, having fallen and wedged in a crack, provides an excellent anchor point. Sometimes these chockstones are in unstable positions, but can be made into excellent anchors with little adjustment. Chock craft is an art that requires time and technique to master—simple in theory, but complex in practice. Imagination and resourcefulness are key principles to chock craft. The skilled climber must understand the application of mechanical advantage, vectors, and other forces that affect the belay chain in a fall.
a. Advantages. The advantages of using chocks are:
b. Disadvantages. The disadvantages of using chocks are:
(2) When selecting a chock, choose one that has as much surface area as possible in contact with the rock. A chock resting on one small crystal or point of rock is likely to be unsafe. A chock that sticks partly out of the crack is avoided. Avoid poor protection. Ensure that the chock has a wire or runner long enough; extra ropes, cord, or webbing may be needed to extend the length of the runner.
(3) End weighting of the placement helps to keep the protection in position. A carabiner often provides enough weight.
(4) Parallel-sided cracks without constrictions are a problem.
Chocks designed to be used in this situation rely on camming principles to remain emplaced.
Weighting the emplacement with extra hardware is often necessary to keep the chocks from dropping out.
(a) Emplace the wedge-shaped chock above and behind the constriction; seat it with a sharp downward tug.
(b) Place a camming chock with its narrow side into the crack, then rotate it to the attitude it will assume under load; seat it with a sharp downward tug.
d. Testing. After seating a chock, test it to ensure it remains in place. A chock that falls out when the climber moves past it is unsafe and offers no protection. To test it, firmly pull the chock in every anticipated direction of pull. Some chock placements fail in one or more directions; therefore, use pairs of chocks in opposition.楔子技术也已经应用几十年了。那些掉入岩缝并被卡住的天然楔石可以作为很好的保护站。有些时候这些楔石可能不是在一个很稳定的位置，但稍微调整一下就可以做为非常好的保护点了。而放置岩楔也是一门技术，想要练习好它需要时间和技巧——理论很简单，但操作起来却非常复杂。这门技术需要想象力，更需要智慧。技术熟练的攀登者一定要懂得如何应用机械增益、向量等关键，还有其他那些在冲坠中会影响到保护的各项因素。
a.优点。使用岩楔有以下的优点：
b. 缺点。使用岩楔有以下的缺点：
c. 岩楔的放置。放置岩楔的一个原理就是，找到一个在某处忽然收窄的裂缝，然后在岩缝收窄的位置上方或里面放置一个合适尺寸的岩楔，通过猛力下拉与岩楔连接的绳圈将岩塞放置好。将岩楔以最大面积严丝合缝地接触岩缝是关键。一般岩楔在单一方向受力的时候效果最好。
(1) 如果可能的话，尽量避免将岩楔放入岩质易碎、较软或退化的岩缝。有些岩缝里可能有松动的石头，草和土，这些东西都应该在放入岩楔前清除。找到岩缝里那个收窄的地方，然后根据这个收窄的位置选择一个合适的岩塞。
(2) 选择岩楔时，要选择那个可以和岩缝形成最大接触面积的岩楔。如果岩楔只与岩缝有一点点接触或岩楔有一部分露在岩缝外面都是不安全的。要避免放置这样的保护。此外，还要确定岩楔上的扁带或钢索挂耳够长；不够长时，可能还需要绳子、辅绳或扁带来帮助延长。
(3) 在岩楔的末端进行配重可以帮助固定岩楔的位置。一把主锁的重量就可以了。
(4) 两侧平行没有收窄位置的裂缝是个问题。为这样的岩缝设计的岩楔是利用凸轮系统原理来进行放置的。放置这样的岩楔经常会需要额外的一些装备来进行配重，以防止岩楔脱离出来。
(a) 放置楔形岩楔是要将它置于在岩缝收窄处的上方或里面；然后猛力向下使劲拉岩楔。
(b) 放置凸轮原理的岩楔则是要先将岩楔窄的那头放到岩缝里，然后再旋转岩楔调整到将要承重的角度，最后再猛力向下拉岩楔。
d.测试岩楔。在放置好岩楔后，要对岩楔进行测试，以保证岩塞不会发生移动。如果攀登者一动，岩楔就掉了出来，那就说明这个岩楔是不安全的，它无法为攀登者提供保护。要测试岩楔是否放置好，就要向每个可能受力的方向猛力地拉动它。有些放置好的岩楔可能在某一个方向或多个方向上失效，那么就在相反的方向上再放置一枚岩楔。
13. SPRING-LOADED CAMMING DEVICE
The SLCD offers quick and easy placement of artificial protection. It is well suited in awkward positions and difficult placements, since it can be emplaced with one hand. It can usually be placed quickly and retrieved easily (Figure 5-16).
a. To emplace an SLCD hold the device in either hand like a syringe, pull the retractor bar back, place the device into a crack, and release the retractor bar. The SLCD holds well in parallel-sided hand- and fist-sized cracks. Smaller variations are available for finger-sized cracks.
b. Careful study of the crack should be made before selecting the device for emplacement. It should be placed so that it is aligned in the direction of force applied to it. It should not be placed any deeper than is needed for secure placement, since it may be impossible to reach the extractor bar for removal. An SLCD should be extended with a runner and placed so that the direction of pull is parallel to the shaft; otherwise, it may rotate and pull out. The versions that have a semi-rigid wire cable shaft allow for greater flexibility and usage, without the danger of the shaft snapping off in a fall.
13. 用弹簧型凸轮岩械（SLCD）做保护站
弹簧型凸轮岩械提供给攀登者一种容易、快速放置的人工保护点方式。因为它可以进行单手操作，所以它可以很好地应用在那些不好放置其他岩械或特别别扭的地方。通常SLCD可以很快捷地放置，取出过程也比较容易。
a. 放置弹簧型凸轮岩械可以像拿注射器一样将它拿在一只手上，然后向后拉动牵拉杆，将岩械放入岩缝，最后再松开牵拉杆。SLCD可以用在手或拳头宽的平行裂缝里。小号的SLCD也可以放在手指那么宽的岩缝里。
b. 在选择合适的岩械放入裂缝前应该对岩缝进行仔细地研究。岩械的放置位置应该与受力方向在一条直线上。放置岩械的时候也不要放置的过深，能够保证安全就可以了，不然的话在移除岩械的时候可能够不到牵拉杆。在放置弹簧型凸轮岩械的时候，应该用扁带对岩械进行延长，使受力方向和轮轴平行；否则，岩械可能会发生旋转并被拉出来。那种半钢性钢索轴的岩械的适应性和使用性更好，在冲坠过程中不会发生轮轴折断的情况。
14. BOLTS
Bolts are often used in fixed-rope installations and in aid climbing where cracks are not available.
a. Bolts provide one of the most secure means of establishing protection. The rock should be inspected for evidence of crumbling, flaking, or cracking, and should be tested with a hammer. Emplacing a bolt with a hammer and a hand drill is a time-consuming and difficult process that requires drilling a hole in the rock deeper than the length of the bolt. This normally takes more than 20 minutes for one hole. Electric or even gas-powered drills can be used to greatly shorten drilling time. However, their size and weight can make them difficult to carry on the climbing route.
b. A hanger (carrier) and nut are placed on the bolt, and the bolt is inserted and then driven into the hole. A climber should never hammer on a bolt to test or "improve" it, since this permanently weakens it. Bolts should be used with carriers, carabiners, and runners.
c. When using bolts, the climber uses a piton hammer and hand drill with a masonry bit for drilling holes. Some versions are available in which the sleeve is hammered and turned into the rock (self-drilling),
which bores the hole.
Split bolts and expanding sleeves are common bolts used to secure hangers and carriers. Surgical tubing is useful in blowing dust out of the holes. Nail type bolts are emplaced by driving the nail with a hammer to expand the sleeve against the wall of the drilled hole. Safety glasses should always be worn when emplacing bolts.
14. 用膨胀铆钉做保护站
用膨胀铆钉来做保护站是最安全的方法之一。它经常被用在固定绳索的保护站或没有裂缝的人工攀登上。
a. 首先，应对要安装膨胀铆钉的石头进行检查，用锤子检查石头有没有要发生剥落、破裂的迹象。用锤子和手钻来安装铆钉是一件耗时又艰难的事儿，因为要用这些工具在石头上钻一个比螺栓还深的洞。一般来说，钻一个洞通常要花20分钟。电钻或液油手持钻都可以缩短钻孔的时间。但因为这些工具的尺寸和重量，很难运抵攀爬路线上。
b.把铆钉嵌入钻好洞里，然后把挂耳和螺母安装在铆钉上。攀岩者千万不要用锤子敲击铆钉来试图测试或“增加“铆钉的强度，因为这样做可能会永久地削弱了铆钉的强度。铆钉应该与挂耳、主锁、扁带等一起使用。
c. 在安装铆钉时，攀登者通常用都会用岩钉锤和金刚石钻头的手钻来钻孔。有的膨胀铆钉是先用锤子将栓套管打入岩石，然后再将螺栓拧入岩石（自转螺栓），在此构成中螺栓充当了钻头。不论是膨胀螺丝，还是膨胀管套都是用于安装挂耳的常用铆钉类型。外科手术管可以用来吹钻孔中的灰尘。但锤钉式的膨胀螺栓则是要用锤子将钉子钉入钻孔中的套管，使套管膨胀固定。在安装膨胀铆钉的时候应该带上护目镜。
15. EQUALIZING ANCHORS
Equalizing anchors are made up of more than one anchor point joined together so that the intended load is shared equally. This not only provides greater anchor strength, but also adds redundancy or backup because of the multiple points.
a. Self-equalizing Anchor. A self-equalizing anchor will maintain an equal load on each individual point as the direction of pull changes. This is sometimes used in rappelling when the route must change left or right in the middle of the rappel. A self-equalizing anchor should only be used when necessary because if any one of the individual points fail, the anchor will extend and shock-load the remaining points or even cause complete anchor failure.
b. Pre-equalized Anchor. A pre-equalized anchor distributes the load equally to each individual point. It is aimed in the direction of the load. A pre-equalized anchor prevents extension and shock-loading of the anchor if an individual point fails. An anchor is pre-equalized by tying an overhand or figure-eight knot in the webbing or sling.
15. 均衡保护站
均衡保护站的建立是基于两个或更多的保护点，通过将这几个保护点连接起来，将要承受的重量均衡地分摊在每个保护点上。这样不仅仅可以增加保护站的强度，而且因为有多个保护点，还为保护站提供了富余，增加了备份。
a. 动态均衡保护站。当受力方向发生改变时，动态均衡保护站会保持每个独立的保护点上所承受的重量都相等。在下降过程中，如果路线会向左或向右发生改变就会用到这样的保护站。动态均衡保护站只有在必须的情况下才会使用，因为如果任何一个保护点失效，那么保护站上的扁带就会发生延伸，冲击其他保护点，甚至导致整个保护站的失效。
b. 静态均衡保护站。静态均衡保护站也是将受力均匀地分散到每个保护点上。但它的受力方向单一。但优势是，如果一个保护点失效，静态均衡保护站可以有效防止该保护站的延长，避免保护站收到冲击。在扁带或绳套上打个单节或双八字就可以做出静态均衡保护站了。
下图是保护点和受力方向因不同角度对保护站受力的影响。
全文完！
