Section III. ARTIFICIAL ANCHORS
Using artificial anchors becomes necessary when natural anchors are unavailable. The art of choosing and placing good anchors requires a great deal of practice and experience. Artificial anchors are available in many different types such as pitons, chocks, hexcentrics, and SLCDs. Anchor strength varies greatly; the type used depends on the terrain, equipment, and the load to be placed on it.
第三部分：人工保护站
在自然锚点无法使用的时候，就需要使用人工锚点了。如何选择、如何放置好的人工锚点则需要大量的练习和经验。人工锚点的种类有很多，包括岩钉、岩楔、六角形岩塞和机械塞等。各种锚点的优势迥异，而至于使用哪种锚点，则要取决于地形、装备，还有要承受的重量等因素。
10. DEADMAN
A "deadman" anchor is any solid object buried in the ground and used as an anchor.
a. An object that has a large surface area and some length to it works best. (A hefty timber, such as a railroad tie, would be ideal.) Large boulders can be used, as well as a bundle of smaller tree limbs or poles. As with natural anchors, ensure timbers and tree limbs are not dead or rotting and that boulders are solid. Equipment, such as skis, ice axes, snowshoes, and ruck sacks, can also be used if necessary.
b. In extremely hard, rocky terrain (where digging a trench would be impractical, if not impossible) a variation of the deadman anchor can be constructed by building above the ground. The sling is attached to the anchor, which is set into the ground as deeply as possible. Boulders are then stacked on top of it until the anchor is strong enough for the load. Though normally not as strong as when buried, this method can work well for light-load installations as in anchoring a hand line for a stream crossing.
10. 用锚定桩做保护站
“锚定桩”保护站是将任何一种东西埋入地下，并以此来做锚点的保护站。
a. 这个做锚点的东西最好有较大的表面积，且同时具有一定长度。（铁道枕木那样的大木头就非常理想。）可以用大石头来做锚点，同样，也可以将树枝或木棍捆成一捆儿。和使用自然锚点一样，要确保所用木头和树枝都不是枯木或腐木，要确保大石头也是结实的石头。如果有必要，雪板、冰镐、雪鞋和背包等装备也可以用来做锚点。
b. 在那种无法挖坑、又坚硬的岩石地形，为了适应环境需要，也可以将锚定桩保护站建立在地面上。充当锚定桩的物体还是应量埋在地下，用绳套与其连接。然后将大石头压在锚定桩上，直到它足够结实，可以承重。尽管这样的保护站并不如完全埋在地下的“锚定桩”结实，但如果所需负载的重量比较轻的时候，这样的保护站也是管用的，就像过河的时候架设的手拉绳索保护站一样。
Section II. ANCHORING WITH THE ROPE
The climbing or installation rope can be tied directly to the anchor using several different techniques. This requires less equipment, but also sacrifices some rope length to tie the anchor. The rope can be tied to the anchor using an appropriate anchor knot such as a bowline or a rerouted figure eight. Round turns can be used to help keep the rope in position on the anchor. A tensionless anchor can be used in high-load installations where tension on the attachment point and knot is undesirable.
第二部分：用绳索建立保护站
通过几种不同的技巧，主绳可以直接与保护站进行连接。这样做的优点是不需要很多的装备，但缺点就是这样会牺牲绳子的长度。恰当使用布林结或双八字结，可以用绳子和保护站连接。在保护站上多绕一圈/几圈可以固定绳索在保护站上的位置。无张力保护站可以使用在需要高负载的保护站架设上，因为高负载保护站的绳结和连接处最好不受力。
8. ROPE ANCHOR
When tying the climbing or installation rope around an anchor, the knot should be placed approximately the same distance away from the anchor as the diameter of the anchor. The knot shouldn't be placed up against the anchor because this can stress and distort the knot under tension.
8. 用绳子做保护站
在系主绳或将主绳绕过保护站的时候，所系的绳结应该与保护站保持一定距离，距离约与保护站的直径相同。绳结不应该与保护站相接触，否则，在拉紧绳子的时候绳结会受压变形。
The tensionless anchor is used to anchor the rope on high-load installations such as bridging and traversing. The wraps of the rope around the anchor absorb the tension of the installation and keep the tension off the knot and carabiner. The anchor is usually tied with a minimum of four wraps, more if necessary, to absorb the tension. A smooth anchor may require several wraps, whereas a rough barked tree might only require a few. The rope is wrapped from top to bottom. A fixed loop is placed into the end of the rope and attached loosely back onto the rope with a carabiner.
9.用绳子架设无张力保护站
无张力保护站是一种用在高负载保护站上的架设方法，而这种高负载保护站通常是用在架桥或横渡上。缠绕在保护站上的绳圈可以吸收保护站安装系统中的张力，避免绳结和主锁受力。为了吸收张力，这种保护站通常最少要缠绕4圈，根据需要还可以再多缠圈。如果保护站的摩擦力比较小，那就可能需要缠更多圈，相反，如果是树皮较为粗糙的大树则可能不需要缠那么多。绳子要由上至下缠绕。被固定的绳索位于绳子的末端，然后用主锁将放松的绳头扣回绳子。
7. SLINGING TECHNIQUES
Three methods are used to attach a sling to a natural anchor—drape, wrap, and girth. Whichever method is used, the knot is set off to the side where it will not interfere with normal carabiner movement. The carabiner gate should face away from the ground and open away from the anchor for easy insertion of the rope. When a locking carabiner cannot be used, two carabiners are used with gates opposed. Correctly opposed gates should open on opposite sides and form an "X" when opened.
7. 绳套技术
绳套与自然锚点连接通常采用三种方法——挂、缠、套。但不论使用哪种方法，打结的绳头都应该放到一边，不能影响到主锁的活动。主锁的锁门应该与地面反向，锁门的开口应朝向保护站，这样会比较容易地放入主绳。如果没有可以锁住的主锁时，可以使用两把散锁代替，两把散锁的锁门要开口相反。如此放置的锁门在锁门打开时，锁门会呈“X”形。
a. Drape. Drape the sling over the anchor. Untying the sling and routing it around the anchor and then retying is still considered a drape.
b. Wrap. Wrap the sling around the anchor and connect the two ends together with a carabiner(s) or knot.
c. Girth. Tie the sling around the anchor with a girth hitch. Although a girth hitch reduces the strength of the sling, it allows the sling to remain in position and not slide on the anchor.
a.
挂。将绳套挂在保护站上。先解开绳套，然后绕过保护站，再将绳套系起来，这样的方法就是挂。
b.
缠。将绳套绕保护站一圈/几圈，再将绳子两头系在一起或用主锁连接。
c. 套。用套结将绳套绕在保护站上。尽管套结可能会降低绳套的强度，但套结可以固定绳套的位置，防止绳套在保护站上滑动。
4. ROCK PROJECTIONS
Rock projections (sometimes called nubbins) often provide suitable protection. These include blocks, flakes, horns, and spikes. If rock projections are used, their firmness is important. They should be checked for cracks or weathering that may impair their firmness. If any of these signs exist, the projection should be avoided.
4. 用岩石凸出做保护站
岩石凸出通常是比较适合用来做保护站的。岩石凸出包括石块、石片、石角和石柱。如果要使用岩石凸出来做保护站，岩石的结实程度是要点。要注意检查岩石凸出是否存在裂缝或风化，因为裂缝和风化都可能会削弱凸出的坚固程度。如果岩石有裂缝或风化的迹象，就不应该再用它们做保护站了。
5. TUNNELS AND ARCHES
Tunnels and arches are holes formed in solid rock and provide one of the more secure anchor points because they can be pulled in any direction. A sling is threaded through the opening hole and secured with a joining knot or girth hitch. The load-bearing hole must be strong and free of sharp edges (pad if necessary).
5. 用石洞和石拱做保护站
石洞和石拱门都是形成于坚石之上的孔，但因为它们的受力方向不唯一，所以它们是更为结实的保护站。将绳套穿过开孔，再将绳套系上连接结或套结。用于承重的开孔必须要足够结实，而且开孔表面还要圆滑没有尖角（如果需要，也可以垫一下）。
6. BUSHES AND SHRUBS
If no other suitable anchor is available, the roots of bushes can be used by routing a rope around the bases of several bushes. As with trees, the anchoring rope is placed as low as possible to reduce leverage on the anchor. All vegetation should be healthy and well rooted to the ground.
6. 用灌木和矮树丛做保护站
如果没有其他适合的保护站可用，那灌木的树根也是可以利用的。将绳子绕过几棵灌木的底部，和绕过大树一样，绳子要尽量靠近下面，也是避免杠杆作用。所用的灌木应该都是健康的灌木，灌木都应该很好地植根于泥土之中。
