一个多小时查资料译毕，觉得这次攀登十分特别，至少我看的时候，有无语凝噎的感觉，故发上来共享。
这应该是这篇文章的首次译介，亦不知道这是不是贡嘎旁四川第二高峰——中山峰攀登资料在国内网络上的首次出镜。外国人前几年先后去登爱德嘉火了一阵、报道不少，以前木雅贡嘎的历次攀登也能找到资料，还有勒多漫因、嘉子等尺度更小些的山峰资料先后由严冬冬等的攀登而浮现出来，但感觉只有这座中山峰被埋在满屏孙中山先生的检索结果里，顿生兴趣，就开始搜罗材料找到了这篇。顺感谢外国友人帮忙查找。
这么多年过去，海螺沟、燕子沟早已成为热门景区，来往游客纷纷扰扰，大多数对山峰们赞叹一番，也无意深究、加以了解；不过我们自己国家的山川地理，还是争取自己要比外国友人了解得更多比较好。
本人只是仍在读的学生，翻译水平有限，故一并列出原文，错讹之处欢迎论坛各位同好指正。
AAC PubliCATions
ASIa, China, Peaks East of Gongga Shan(Minya Konka)
亚洲 中国贡嘎山（木雅贡嘎山）东侧峰群
Radium-MACU 中译，自American Alpine Journal,1982
贡嘎山（木雅贡嘎山）东侧峰群消息。4月15日苏黎世学术山岳俱乐部的十位成员离开瑞士前往中国，并在五天内抵达了四川省省会成都。
Peaks East of Gongga Shan (Minya Konka). OnApril 15 ten members of the Academic Alpine Club Zürich left Switzerland forChina and reached Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province, within five days.
那里，一吨的食品和装备等待着我们。感谢中登协的良好组织行动，我们得以在4月23日沿川藏公路到达了磨西镇（Moshimien，？）。
There, a ton of food and gear awaited us.Thanks to the good organization of the Chinese Mountaineering Association, wegot to Moshimien on April 23, following the main road to Lhasa.
为期两天的初步考察和与当地背夫的讨论为我们提供了必要的信息，并且在接下来的三天里，我们艰难地穿过途中茂密的丛林以到达大本营。
Two days of reconnaissance and discussionswith the local porters provided the necessary information and we werestruggling through thick jungle to arrive at Base Camp three days later.
绝大多数背夫拒绝继续沿海螺沟冰川向上负重，因此我们不得不在海拔9675英尺（2949米）就建了大本营。1930年代早期首批考察这一区域的西方人之一的英霍夫教授（EduardImhof）给我们的天气数据十分准确。在我们50天的大本营驻留中，只有4天的良好天气。稍高几百米的一些地方气象状况稍有改善，但早晨的大风与将近傍晚时的降雪给我们带来了很大的障碍。
Most of the porters refused to carry theirloads further up the Hai-loko Glacier and thus we were forced to set up basecamp at only 9675 feet. The information about the weather given us by ProfessorImhof, one of the first Westerners in the region in the early 1930s, provedaccurate. During our 50-day stay at Base Camp, we had only four fine days. Somehundred meters higher the weather improved slightly, but high morning winds andlate afternoon snowfalls hampered us considerably.
因此，雪崩的危险系数变得十分高并且无法预知。在5月1日，J. 霍施特拉塞尔和我攀登了“黑三角（海拔5050米，16568英尺）”，G. 杜伦博格和和G. 弗格攀登了鹿角山（海拔5050米，16568英尺），这两座山都在大本营南侧。
Consequently, the danger of avalanches washigh and could not be foreseen. On May 1, J. Hochstrasser and I climbed BlackTriangle (5050 meters, 16,568 feet) and G. Dürrenberger and G. Furger ascendedDeerhorn Mountain (5050 meters, 16,568 feet). These lay south of Base Camp.
最开始的三周都花在了在高6400英尺（1951米）的冰川瀑布脚下建立前进营地并找到路绕过它（冰川瀑布）上面。为期两周对太山（海拔6410米，21031英尺）的围攻在杜伦博格、F. 哈夫林格、R. 斯波利和我在5600米上雪线（？）四天后，在5月20日获得了成功。
The first three weeks were spent withsetting up advanced Base Camp at the foot of the 6400-foot-high icefall andfinding a way around it. A two-week assault on Mount Tai (6410 meters, 21,031feet) was sUCCessful on May 20 after Dürrenberger, F. Häflinger, R. Spoerry andI were snowed in for four days at 18,375 feet.
我们从北侧接近（太山）并攀登了西北脊。这座山坐落在木雅贡嘎的东南。我们还攀登了朝太山东北侧延伸的一条北西-南东走向脊线上的各山峰：从东南往西北罗列就是，5月8日被哈夫林格和我登顶的“三色山”（5030米，16503英尺）、5月13日被杜伦博格和我登顶的“羊山”（5200米，17061英尺），还有5月29日被杜伦博格、G. 斯蒂格和我登顶的“雪塔”（5480米，17979英尺）。
We approached from the north and climbedthe northwest ridge. The peak lies southeast of Minya Konka. We also climbedthe mountains that lie in a northwest-southeast line to the northeast of Tai:from southeast to northwest, Three Color Mountain (5030 meters, 16,503 feet) onMay 8 by Häflinger and me; Sheep Mountain (5200 meters, 17,061 feet) on May 13by Dürrenberger and me; and Snow Pagoda (5480 meters, 17,979 feet) on May 29 byDürrenberger, G. Styger and me.
由于恶劣的雪况，我们不得不放弃我们攀登木雅贡嘎的计划，（这种情况下）作攀登肯定会太过危险。东北山脊和东南山脊此时都无法安全接近。在中国联络官的许可、我们也找到了一条从光滑岩壁上通过修好的绳索绕过冰川瀑布的路线的情况下，我们把目标集中在了木雅贡嘎的东侧。
Because of the bad snow conditions, we hadto give up our plan to climb Minya Konka, an ascent that would have been fartoo dangerous. Neither the northeast nor southeast ridge could be reachedsafely. In agreement with the Chinese liaison officer, having found a wayaround the icefall over a smooth rock face on fixed ropes, we concentrated onthe east side of Minya Konka.
一条2300英尺（701米）高的、陡峭的雪冰冲沟将我们带上了磨子沟冰川盆，在那里我们能够攀登六座6000米级未登峰，其中孙中山峰（海拔6886米，22593英尺）是这一区域除木雅贡嘎之外最高的山。
A steep 2300-foot-high snow-and-ice gullyled us onto the Ma-tsöko Glacier basin, where we were able to climb sixunclimbed 6000-meter peaks, among them Sun-Yat-Sen (6886 meters, 22,593 feet),the highest in the region apart from Minya Konka.
6月4日，杜伦博格、哈夫林格、斯波利和我接近了南卫峰与主峰之间的坳口，并沿东山脊到达了主峰。6月5日杜伦博格和我通过其南山脊攀登了孙中山峰南卫峰（海拔6600米，21654英尺）。
On June 4 Dürrenberger, Haflinger, Spoerryand I approached the col between the south and main summits and followed theeast ridge to the main peak. On June 5 Dürrenberger and I climbed Sun-Yat-SenSouth (6600 meters, 21,654 feet) by its south ridge.
我们还做了以下攀登：自西向东列举是，6月2日杜伦博格、哈夫林格、F. 穆勒、斯波利、斯蒂格和我攀登的“白色金字塔”峰（海拔6020米，19751英尺）和“金字塔”山（海拔6150米，20177英尺）和6月4日由G. 贝尼索维施、弗格和穆勒攀登的“长脊峰”（海拔6100米，20013英尺）。
We also made the following ascents: fromwest to east, White Pyramid (6020 meters, 19,751 feet) and Pyramid Mountain(6150 meters, 20,177 feet) on June 2 by Dürrenberger, Häflinger, F. Müller,Spoerry, Styger and me; and Long Ridge Mountain (6100 meters, 20,013 feet) onJune 4 by G. Benisowitsch, Furger and Müller.
我们的确攀登了太多的山峰，因为原本只有木雅贡嘎和太山是登山协定上准许我们攀登的；这一事实带给了我们相当的麻烦，但由于我们能够证明我们所有的活动都得到了随行联络官员的全权同意，我们最终寻得了双方一致赞同的解决方案。
The fact that we had climbed too manypeaks—only Minya Konka and Tai were stipulated by contract—brought usconsiderable trouble, but as we could prove that we had acted in full agreementwith the liaison officer, we finally found a solution agreeable for bothparties.
孙中山峰现在也被称作中山峰。我们所用的山峰名称是在我向其进行（所攀登）各山峰外貌的描述后，中登协成都分支机构的最高长官方先生（？）提出命名的。我们的对话以英语进行，方先生随后将这些山名译成了中文。
Sun-yat-Sen may now also be called ZhongShan. Our names were given us by Mr. Fong, chief of the Chengdu branch of theChinese Mountaineering Association, after I had given him a description of whatthe mountains looked like. Our conversation was in English. Mr. Fong thentranslated them into Chinese.
罗曼·波泰利尔，AACZ
Roman Boutellier, Akademischer Alpen Club,Zürich
顺附大致路线图一张，图中路线地点均为据文推测，不保证准确性。作者Radium-MACU
