冈仁波齐峰有史以来唯一一份来自知名登山家的攀登结论和路线参考图（珍贵史料） - 山伍成群 - 8264户外手机版
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-11-4 17:45 编辑
英国登山家Colonel R. C. Wilson在1926年对冈仁波齐峰进行了认真的攀登侦察后，得出以下结论：
Wilson drew the following conclusions from his day's
reconnaissance:
Should fate again take me to Torcheri [sic] with a couple of days
to spare, I should make for the ridge HF, moving either round the
foot of D or via Kyangda and over ridge FD. I should expect to
get on the ridge HF about point F and to have an easy passage to
the foot ofthe final ascent. A reasonably cornfortable camp could
be made here and the carriers sent down again to the foot of F for
the night.
Next day the carriers could return to H and remove camp to the
foot of F, whilst the climbers went on to the top and back. As
regards altitudes, Torchen is probably about I 5, 500 feet, point H
about 20,000 and the summit is 22,028.
The photograph shows the final slope to be reasonable. though
the snow might be found powdery and treacherous.
Should the route suggested above prove impracticable, an
alternative line to point H would be to leave C and the ridge HB
on one's right and to trust to finding a way up on to H from near
the foot of the mountain where the small glacier falls into the
valley and the niche with the images has been made.
In this EVENT one would have to be content with a light camp, as
the climb to H might prove too much for laden carriers.
Finally, there remains a third possible route: to get on up the long
N. ridge somewhere near the Dolma Pass.
(Wilson, Ibid .)
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-11-4 17:56 编辑
为了帮助大家理解路线图，我为大家在GE里把H点给标上了，其它点可以对照获得：
关于攀登冈仁波齐峰，梅斯内尔说过 If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people's souls. I would suggest they go and climb something a little harder. Kailas is not so high and not so hard
这段话里，梅斯内尔在最后一部分提到冈仁波齐峰不高也不难，海拔6000多米的确不算高，不难这种说法就很睁着眼说瞎话了， 早在1926年，英国登山家Hugh Ruttledge已经研究过冈仁波齐峰的北壁, 他估算冈仁波齐峰的北壁有 6,000 英寸 (1,800 米) 高，并认为它是 "utterly unclimbable"，别看梅斯内尔已经功成名就，也许这块北壁就足以让他折戟沉沙了，任何一座山峰都不应该被轻视，何况这是Kailas
梅斯内尔自从获得登山皇帝的称号后，非常喜欢对什么事情都发表一通自己的看法，其中有很多说法都是不切实际的，与事实相去甚远
多谢版主欣赏，其实我是很钦佩wilson这位登山家的，因为去过冈仁波齐的朋友都知道那里就是世界的尽头，生存条件极其严苛，1928年那时候没有网络、手机和相机，更不用说GPS、GE了，wilson和向导在攀登侦查时只能依靠目力所及，在经过一整天的艰险和辛苦后，回到自己寒冷的小屋，还是会坐在油灯下认真地写下这份登山计划，同时画出了攀登线路图，甚至在计划中考虑了三套以今天的角度来看都是非常靠谱的方案，这是一种多么严谨、踏实、谦卑的态度，而八十年后的今天，科技虽然已经进步到令那个时代望尘莫及，但这种珍贵的精神和态度却在严重流失
被您这么一科普，这位登山家确实称得上伟大这个词。其实丧失严谨踏实态度的何止是登山届……一叹
