意大利国际高山向导来华元旦四姑娘山攀冰 - 攀岩|探洞|绳降

老唐_131
2018-12-5 11:48 倒序浏览 32878人浏览

本帖最后由老唐_131 于 2018-12-5 11:58 编辑

Paolo Dani 中文名保罗意大利人
Italian

2019年元旦期间来四川四姑娘山攀冰

国际高山向导（IFMGA- International Federation of Mountain Guides Association）, 高山滑雪教练，意大利多洛米蒂区直升机救援队队长、意大利多洛米蒂区高山救援队队员、30年的登山经验。

攀冰能力WI6+,攀岩能力5.13a,混合攀登能力M10

成功完成+700条欧洲和美洲的攀冰路线，超过三十条阿尔卑斯山冰沟攀登，攀登过新疆慕士塔格, 尼泊尔阿玛达布拉姆峰, 阿尔卑斯山的勃朗峰、马特洪峰、马特洪峰北壁以及MonteRosa山系所有山峰等100多条线路。

International Mountain Guide of IFMGA\Mountain Ski Instructor\ Captain of the helicopter rescue team in the Italian Dolomites\ Alpine rescue team in the Italian Dolomites\30 years of mountaineering experience.

Ice climbing ability WI6+, Rock climbing ability 5.13a, Mixed climbing ability M10

SUCCessfully completed +700 ice climbing routes in Europe and the Americas, more than 30 alpine ice gullies, climbed Muztag in China Xinjiang, Mt. Pumori and Mt.Amadablam in NEPAl, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Matterhorn North Face Route and so on more than 100 routes.

另外两位意大利高山向导也一起随行来四姑娘山攀冰，他们是：

Maurizio Pretto, Italian 中文名马乌利齐奥意大利人

高山向导，直升机救援队队员、意大利多洛米蒂区高山救援队队员、25年的登山经验。

攀冰能力WI6+

累计几百条冰壁路线的成功攀爬包括意大利阿尔卑斯山脉的“苏格兰梦”WI5 300米和“大教堂”WI6+，成功攀爬加拿大的 Weeping Wall、Lake Louise冰瀑。超过60多条阿尔卑斯山地区海拔4000+路线的顺利攀登包括勃朗峰。

Mountain guide, a member of helicopter rescue team and of the alpine rescue team in the Dolomites, 25 years of mountaineering experience.

Ice climbing ability WI6+

Has successful climbed hundreds of ice wall routes includes the “Scottish Dream” WI5 300m in the Italian ALPS and the “CAThedral” WI6+, which successfully climbed the Weeping Wall and Lake Louise ice wall in Canada.

More than 60 alpine regions with an altitude of 4000+, including the Mont Blanc

Alessandro Barin / Alex LIN, Italian 林宸意大利人

登山家，中文流利，在中国已经生活了18年，30年的户外经验。

攀冰能力WI4，攀岩能力5.11c, 混合攀登能力M6

意大利威尼托区越野滑雪1992年冠军和1996年亚军。

阿尔卑斯山地区、中国多条运动/野攀路线/混合攀登线路，包括”玛多那之巅”450米VI-，神仙居天柱岩5.11c、“烟囱线”IV+ M6 ED-， “魔法饼干”300米 V M5 TD等上百条路线。

阿尔卑斯山地区超过30多条海拔4000+路线的顺利攀登包括勃朗峰、马特洪峰、Bernina、MonteRosa等山峰。
攀登过尼泊尔岛峰、罗布切等山峰。

Mountaineer, has lived in China for 18 years, speaking fluent Chinese, Suzhou Dolomites outdoor founder, 30 years of outdoor experience.

Ice climbing ability WI4, climbing ability 5.11c, mixed climbing ability M6.

He won the 1992 cross-country skiing in the Veneto region of Italy and the runner-up in 1996.

Multiple sports/wild climbing routes/mixed climbing routes in Alps and China, including "Madona Peak" 450m VI-, Shenxianju Tianzhuyan 5.11c, "Chimney Line" IV+ M6 ED-, "Magic Cookies "300 meters V M5 TD and other hundreds of routes.

More than 30 high-altitude 4000+ routes in the Alps include Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Bernina, MonteRosa and other peaks.

Climbed peaks such as Island Peak/Pokalde/Lobuche in Nepal

老唐_131
12月5日

他们此次来华主要是考察四姑娘山地区的技术性山峰，为以后的攀登做前期准备，同时体验双桥沟的冰壁。另外，会通过攀冰教学的方式和中国的攀冰户外爱好者交流。

2018 Dec.29th- 2019 Jan.5th Shuangqiao Valley,Sichuan

他们的行程计划是 2018年12月29日-2019年1月5日四川四姑娘山双桥沟

攀冰课程计划主要借鉴了欧洲阿尔卑斯地区的培训内容。

Ice Climbing Elementary Course is designed to give you the best possible introduction to climbing the frozen waterfalls that form in the Shuangqiao Valley's. The course teaches all the important skills and techniques necessary for participants to enjoy climbing the frozen waterfalls and to safely operate in the winter environment. An important aspect of the course is that participants have every opportunity to practise techniques for themselves with close supervision and coaching from the guide.

这8天攀冰基础课程旨在为您提供攀登双桥沟冰瀑的体验，使学员在享受攀冰的同时能够掌握在冬季环境中攀登的安全操作。该课程的一个重要方面是学员在教练的密切监督和指导下多练习攀冰技巧。

Course Programme 课程安排

Day 1 Dec 29th 2018

Arrival at Chengdu and welcome dinner, Gear&Equipment check.

Day 2 Dec 30th 2018
Transportation to Shuangqiao Valley, after arriving at the lodge, coach will introduce various applications of rope, crampons, climbing boots, knots, protectors, carabiner, and quickdraw and so on. Overnight stay at the valley lodge.

Day 3 Dec 31th 2018
The main aim of the first day is to teach personal ice climbing technique to ensure that you are efficient and comfortable on the ice. Placing ice screw protection and rope work for ice climbing is also covered to give a firm foundation for a safe climbing. It is also important to be able to cope with the cold winter environment so we spend time on how to stay comfortable whilst on the climb. Overnight stay at Shuangqiao Valley lodge.

Day 4 Jan 1st 2019
Today we choose a slightly steeper cascade to build on skills learned the first day and progress to more technical points that will help you to climb efficiently on steeper ice. As well as coaching your movement on the ice we practise placing and removing ice protection with the safety of a top rope. This particular cascade is a very friendly 30m ice wall with many lines to climb and with a variety of features - such as ice slabs, steep walls and icicles - demanding a range of climbing techniques. Overnight stay at Shuangqiao Valley lodge.

Day 5 Jan 2nd 2019
Multi-pitch ice climbing. The first multi-pitch ice climb will be carefully chosen so that we can focus on the rope-work (double rope descent), stance management and safety considerations on the climb. We will choose a route which is at the right level of difficulty for course participants, giving us a very enjoyable and instructive day. Overnight stay at Shuangqiao Valley lodge.

Day 6 Jan 3rd 2019
Today we focus safety measures during climbing, such as rescue foundation, pulley skills. By now most of the technical/safety aspects of ice climbing will be thoroughly learned so we can enjoy focussing on the more technically difficult climbing demanded by the icefalls at this venue. Overnight stay at Shuangqiao Valley lodge.

Day 7 Jan 4th 2019
Depending on prevailing conditions we will choose to climb one of the classic ice falls. You can enjoy the more practise ice climbing with coaching. Overnight stay at Shuangqiao Valley lodge.

Day 8 Jan 5th 2019
Departure from Shangqiao Valley, transportation to Chengdu.

Note：Coach team will share their climbing experience at the course night time.

第一天 2018年12月29日成都汇合
聚餐、互相认识交流、确保装备齐全。入住成都玛夏布鲁户外客栈

第二天 2018年12月30日抵达双桥沟,装备介绍和讲解
抵达双桥沟后可以开始介绍绳子、冰爪、冰镐、靴子、绳结、保护器、主锁、快挂的各种应用。

第三天 2018年12月31 日攀冰初级技术
攀冰技巧动作的基本训练（包括基本姿势等意式攀登法）进行跟攀、先锋保护、冰锥使用和解除等训练，包括设保护站的各种技巧、防寒手段以及安全措施。

第四天 2019年1月1日    攀冰初级技术
继续巩固攀冰技巧、尝试不同难度的路线，学习其他攀登动作

第五天 2019年1月2日   攀冰结组线
结组线的保护、安全以及双绳垂降

第六天 2019年1月3日   攀冰中级技术
安全措施、救援基础、滑轮技巧等特殊情况处理

第七天 2019年1月4日   攀冰中级技术
根据学员的各种情况可以分组进行复习或结组攀登

第八天 2019年1月5日   学员培训结束、返回成都。
意大利教练继续留在双桥沟考察。

备注：教练团队在培训期间的晚上会跟大家分享他们的攀登经验。

老唐_131
12月6日

因为这几位意大利向导主要目的是考察，所以收费比较接地气，服务内容是吃住行全部包括，使学员集中精力在培训课程上。具体是：
Price:  4500 CNY /each*  4500元人民币/位学员
*Fully inclusive price，please find price details in “ Price Includes”  全配套价格，详细见价格包含内容
01: Hotel and Lodging: 2 nights in Chengdu Masherbrum Outdoor Guesthouse on Twin Room, 6 nights in local guesthouse in Shuangqiao Valley on twin room or dorm.bed，staying dorm.bed would refund price difference to participants.
02: Welcome Dinner: One Welcome Dinner in Chengdu
03: Ticket, tourist bus and environment protection charges in Shangqiao valley
04: Food: 3 meals during day 2 – Day 7, however the lunch at Shuangqiao Valley will be simple hot food such as dumpling, pasta etc.
05: Coach wages/food/accommodation etc related expense
06: Insurance: participant insurance, insured amount 1 million CNY/ participant.
07: Transportation: between Chengdu-Shuangqiao Valley, local lodge and training venue in Shuangqiao Valley
08: public equipment during the course
1. 两晚成都玛夏布鲁户外客栈住宿（2人/标间）,六晚双桥沟住宿（2人/标间或多人间床位，元旦期间双桥沟住宿紧张的情况下如果安排的是多人间床位会返回价差给学员）
2. 成都的欢迎晚宴
3. 双桥沟门票、观光车和环保费
4. 餐食：第二天到第七天的一日三餐，其中上冰5天期间的午餐为饺子、意大利面等简单热食；
5．教练费用
6．攀冰保险，保额为1百万元人民币每位学员
7. 交通：成都和双桥沟之间的往返交通，以及攀冰期间双桥沟内每天的人员往返运输
8．攀冰公用器材使用及损耗费(登山绳索、冰锥、岩锥、攀冰公用技术小冰镐、公用扁带，应急药品等)