本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-12-21 12:03 编辑
（3）Humar为什么会发生事故？要搞清楚这个问题，先让我们来回顾一下Humar的攀登经历
13. November 1994: Ganesh V (6770 m), in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-Šrauf
6. May 1995: Annapurna (8091 m), N face, French Route, solo climb (the only traditional expedition in which he participated)
4. May 1996: Ama Dablam (6828 m), new route on NW face, with Vanja Furlan
2. November 1996: Bobaye (6808 m), 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
1. October 1997: Lobuche East (6119 m), NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and Carlos Carsolio
9-11. October 1997: Pumori (7165 m), SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route), with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač
31. October 1997: Nuptse West top (NW, 7742 m), W face, new route, with Janez Jeglič (who died during descent)
26. October 1998: El Capitan (2307 m) (Yosemite), route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb (1st solo by non-American)
2. November 1999: Dhaulagiri (8167 m), new route on S face (up to 8000 m, without reaching the top), solo climb
26. October 2002: Shisha Pangma, (8046 m), with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
June 2003: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), his first attempt to climb Rupal (S) Face, up to ca. 6000 m
22. December 2003: Aconcagua (6960 m), S face, new route with Aleš Koželj
October 2004: Jannu (7711 m), E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m
23. April 2005: Cholatse (6440 m), NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Aleš Koželj, Janko Oprešnik
Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat (8125 m), attempt to solo climb Rupal (S) Face, up to 7000 meters (with famous helicopter rescue action - see main text above)
October 2006: Baruntse (7129 m), W face of SE ridge, solo
28. October 2007: Annapurna (8091 m), S face, new route, solo climb
(ca.) 8. November 2009: Langtang Lirung (7227 m), S face solo attempt, died during descent
很容易发现，从28. October 2007完成Annapurna (8091 m)南壁新路线的solo后，到发生事故的蓝塘里壤峰攀登之间长达两年的时间里，Humar没有进行过任何攀登，作为梅斯纳尔眼中最伟大的阿式登山家，正当壮年，连续休息两年，这很不寻常。在这两年中究竟发生了什么事，让这位最伟大的阿式登山家停止攀登，这些和事故的发生又有什么样的关联呢？
接下来，我打算梳理一下这两年里哪些事情会影响humar作为一个顶级阿式登山家的攀登状态：
（1）Humar病了，而且是比较严重的病，一直在寻求医生的治疗
Bernadette McDonald是Humar的传记作者，在Humar死前，她在苏格兰的一场电影节最后一次看到Humar."他的情况不好，他患上某种铅中毒病症，正在德国找医生治疗。在公众场合他还是象他通常做的那样打发日子，但私底下他非常担忧"。他糟糕的健康正严重影响他未来的攀登计划。“对我而言，他似乎变成了以前的缩小版”，她补充道
Bernadette McDonald last saw him a year before his death at a film festival in Scotland. “He wasn’t well. He had some kind of lead poisoning and was seeing a doctor in Germany. He was goofing around like he always did in public, but in private he was worried.” McDonald speculates that his years painting as a young man, raising cash for expeditions, may have come back to haunt him. His poor health was undermining future climbing plans. “He seemed to me a smaller version of his former self,” she adds.
（2）Humar的家庭关系和个人感情都出了严重的问题
他和妻子已经离婚好几年了，但这两年关系已经糟到妻子不让他见自己的孩子，就算他死后，他前妻也不让孩子去参加他的葬礼。他和斯洛文尼亚记者Maja Ros的长期关系在他攀登南迦巴特峰时开始，但在2008年走到了尽头。梅斯纳尔说Humar已经失去了攀登者最重要的心理平衡。
Separated and then divorced from Sergeja several years before, Humar had fought a long battle to maintain contact with his children. When Humar died, Sergeja didn’t attend the funeral, or allow the children to go, and she declined to comment for this article. A long relationship with Slovenian journalist Maja Ros, begun on Nanga Parbat, broke down in 2008.
（3）Humar创办了自己的生意，不能再象以前一样随意攀登了
Humar经营着一家可以从政府获得订单的绳索通路公司。当他去年秋天在加德满都与自己的老朋友，意大利阿式登山家Simone Moro不期而遇并共进晚餐时，他告诉Moro，“阿式登山已经变成了他的爱好，再也不是他的工作和主要活动”，也就是说Humar的攀登状态在这两年里发生了不可逆转的退化
His business, running a rope-access company, allowed him a decent enough living, thanks to a government contract. Last fall, the Italian alpinist Simone Moro found himself unexpectedly in Kathmandu. One morn- ing, Moro ran into an old friend walking down the street—Tomaz Humar. The two had dinner together, and Humar showed Moro an old pho- tocopied image of Langtang Lirung’s south face.
“Tomaz said the face had been attempted two or three times before and that everybody failed,” Moro told me. He agreed to give Humar some ice screws, made by their shared sponsor, CAMP. “The line he showed me looked to be the only one possible on that face, with less risk than other lines. But it still looked quite dangerous. Tomaz told me also that alpinism had become for him a hobby and no more his job or main activity. He was different from the other times I met him. He also phoned me while he was going by bus to the last village, where he intended to start trekking.” It was, as it turned out, a final greeting.
我个人认为，这三点已经足够多了，在去蓝塘前，Humar可能觉得自己和以前没什么不同，但就攀登状态而言，他再也不是以前的自己了，这点从他在蓝塘的攀登也可以看出，他没有从南壁的底部起步，是他不愿意还是不能，从后来的情况看，用一周时间横切，攀登效率低下，进展缓慢，最重要的是他的补给还够吗？如果已经消耗光了，别说登顶了，就算全身而退也不行，这些都会让他发愁，他不能再叫救援了，因为上一次的救援已经让他名誉扫地，这些烦恼，都会导致他夜不能寐、心中恍惚、神志不清，这些加在一起构成他在营地发生事故的根本原因
