EDELRID Mega Jul攀岩保护器使用说明 - 装备天下 - 8264户外手机版

  装备天下

6d.上方保护模式,不能用来进行先锋保护。

7. 顶绳保护下放攀登者

要下放攀登者,必须先解除锁定模式。方法1:拇指法,将保护器的拇指托架向上提起,从而使绳索解除锁定(图7a)。方法2:倾斜法,导向手的食指和拇指将保护器倾斜一定角度,从而实现解锁(图7b)。在这两种情况下,释放速度都由制动手控制。

7. Securing a descending climber withyour body:

To secure a descending climber, thedevice must be unlocked. This may be done by employing the thumb method, inwhich the securing device is pulled upward at the thumb bracket, therebyallowing the rope to run through (Fig. 7a). Alternatively, the tilt method maybe employed (Fig. 7b): The securing device is tilted by pointer and thumb ofthe guiding hand and is thereby unlocked. In both cases the brake speed iscontrolled by the braking hand.

解锁方法1:拇指法(制动端始终不能松开)[9]

解锁方法2:倾斜法(制动端始终不能松开)[9]


8.上方保护跟攀者

可以分别保护一个或两个跟攀者(确保不要混淆绳索!)。保护器使用主锁,通过锚点连接孔与保护站连接(图8a),将绳索弯成绳耳,穿过保护器的绳索凹槽,并与第二把主锁连接(制动主锁)。

注意:制动主锁的锁背一侧必须位于保护器与钢丝支架的相反方向,并且必须与保护器直接接触(图8b/8c)。当用单绳保护跟攀登者时,主锁必须套住绳圈和保护器(图8d);使用单绳时,主锁不得只套住绳索本身(图8e)。

8. Securing a top rope climber from a fixedpoint (e. g. a station):

One or two top rope climbers may besecured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). The securing devicemust be attached at the fixed point by means of the attachment (Fig. 8a). Therope slings are fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a secondkarabiner (brake karabiner). Attention: The closed spine of the brake karabinermust be located on the side of the securing device that is opposite the wirebracket and must contact it directly (Fig. 8b/8c). When securing a top ropeclimber with a single rope, the karabiner must be attached to the rope loop andaround the device (Fig. 8d); it must not contact the rear of the device (8e).


9. 9a9d说明了上方保护跟攀者的错误操作。

9. Fig. 9a to 9d illustrateinadmissible faulty operations for securing of top rope climbers.


10. 下放跟攀者,可使用另一把锁具连接到释放孔,通过抬起释放孔一端来解除锁定。下降速度必须用制动手控制。如果同时保护两名跟攀者,一定要先固定住不下降的跟攀者的制动端(如打结)。

10. To secure a descending top ropeclimber, the device may be unlocked using an additional karabiner attached to theunlocking eye. The descend speed must be controlled with the braking hand. Iftwo top rope climbers are secured, be sure to secure the braking rope of thetop rope climber who is not descending (e. g. by means of a knot).

补充说明:当需要微距下放跟攀者时,可以向上提起制动主锁,解除锁定,同时少量给绳,达到短距离下放的目的。[9]

11. 沿绳下降

在进行下降操作时,我们建议将保护器掉转方向,使拇指托架指向下降者的自身(图11)。此外,还可以使用普鲁士抓结进行备份保护。

11. Abseiling:

For abseiling we recommend to turn thesecuring device around so that the thumb bracket points to the body (Fig. 11a).Additionally, use a Prusik sling for back securing.


12. 注意事项:下降时,绳索的两端都要打好绳尾结。

12. Attention: For abseiling anddescend climbing secure the rope ends by means of stop knots (Fig. 12)

13. 为了达到最佳的保护操作,绳索应该无缠绕,有序地放在绳垫上。

13. For optimum handling for securing,the rope should lie in a rope sack in orderly, unconfused manner.


14. 在多段路线上通过保护者(用身体连接保护器)进行先锋保护,应确保至少有一个中间保护点位于保护器和攀登者之间。如果没有中间保护点,先锋者一旦脱落,冲坠系数最大可达到2,并且冲击力将直接作用在保护器和保护员身上,保护员有可能受到过大冲击,导致受伤。

14. If you secure others with yourbody in a multi rope length route, be sure at least one intermediate securingpoint lies between the securing device and the climber.


15在多段路线上通过保护站(连接保护器)进行先锋保护时,使用半绳或双子绳攀登,应确保至少有一个中间保护点位于保护器和攀登者之间。

15. When securing a lead climber froma belay station in a mulri-pitch route with more than one rope length, be surean intermediate protection point is always located between the securing deviceand the climber.

For further information refer to theproduct video / home page.

功能和安全检查

用户有责任在安全环境下,检查并确保保护器、主锁和绳索组成的整个系统的功能正常。装备的制动性能可能随上述一些应用的不同而不同(例如制动方法);影响制动性能的因素包括:主锁的大小及形状、绳子的直径和绳子表面光滑程度等。

在开始正式保护或下降之前,请检查保护器的连接是否正确以及保护器的功能是否良好,并进行必要的制动测试,确保制动力正常。

光滑的绳索、潮湿或结冰可能会减弱保护器的制动效果。需要始终用手抓住绳索的制动端。使用较细的绳索时,尤其建议戴手套。

Functionaland Safety Check

It is the responsibility of the userto check the proper function of the combination of securing device, securingkarabiner and climbing rope(s) in a safe environment (near the ground / at jumpheight). The operating properties may vary with some of the applicationsdescribed above (e. g. brake action); this is due to different karabinergeometries or rope diameters and surfaces.

Before securing or abseiling, checkthe correct attachment of the device as well as the proper function and brakeaction of the device.

Smooth ropes, moisture or icing maynegatively influence the braking effect of the device.

注意:在任何时候,制动手必须始终完全握住绳索的制动端!

ATTENTION - At all timethe brake rope must be held completely with the braking hand!

绳索类型

根据EN892标准的规定,先锋攀登必须使用动力绳。

绳索的直径范围详见下图2。实际的绳索直径可能与制造商给出的标称直径相差±0.2mm。允许使用静力绳进行顶绳攀登和保护,或单人下降,但静力绳不能用来先锋攀登!避免让绳子松弛。

Ropetypes to be used

For lead climbing exclusively usedynamic ropes according to EN 892.

Diameter range see Fig. 2. The actualrope diameter may differ from the rated diameter indicated by the manufacturerby up to ±0.2 mm. Use of static ropes is allowed for securing with ropedeflection (top roping) or for lowering/abseiling of a person only, but not forsecuring of a lead climber! Avoid sagging of the rope.

选择锚点、安全性、产品寿命、储存、保养和标识的通用信息

GENERALINFORMATION ON CHOOSING AN ANCHOR POINT, SAFETY,

PRODUCTLIFE, STORAGE, CARE AND IDENTIFICATION

安全须知

当本产品与其他部件组合使用时,产品的安全性可能会相互干扰。

在使用前后,检查装备是否有损坏的迹象(如变形、裂缝和腐蚀);确保其使用和功能正常。如果对装备的使用性有丝毫怀疑,必须立即丢弃不用。

警告!本产品必须远离破坏性环境,包括接触磨蚀性和腐蚀性物质(如酸、碱、漂白剂、有机溶剂、清洁剂),以及极端温度和飞溅的火花。

SAFETYNOTICES

When combining this product with othercomponents, the safety aspects of the products may interfere with each other.

Before and after use, check the devicefor signs of damage (e. g. deformation, fissures and corrosion); ensure itsfitness for use and proper functioning. The equipment must be discardedimmediately if there is even the slightest doubt as to its serviceability.

Warning!The products must be kept away from damaging environments. Thisincludes contact with abrasive and aggressive substances (e.g. acids, alkalis,soldering water, oils, cleaning agents), as well as extreme temperatures andflying sparks.

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