平出和也遇难启示录 - 户外大厅 - 8264户外手机版

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首先用下面这份数据判断一下2024年阿式登山届究竟遭受了什么级别的惨重损失

The following climbers have won more than one Piolet d'Or since its inception in 1992:

    5 times. Paul Ramsden (2003, 2013, 2016, 2017, 2023).
    4 times. Marko Prezelj (1992, 2007, 2015, 2016). Kazuya Hiraide (2009, 2018, 2020, 2024).
    3 times. Mick Fowler (2003, 2013, 2016),
    2 times. Valery Babanov [fr] (2002, 2004), Aleš Česen (2015, 2019), Dmitry Golovchenko [Wikidata] (2013, 2017), Zdenek Hák [cs] (2018, 2020), Marek Holeček (2018, 2020), Kenro Nakajima (2018, 2020), Sergey Nilov [Wikidata] (2013, 2017), Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll [fr] (2011, 2022), Mark Richey (2012, 2020), Ueli Steck (2009, 2014), Luka Stražar [sl] (2012, 2019), Steve Swenson (2012, 2020), Hayden Kennedy (2013, 2016).

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Prior to announcing the list, the organisers also paid tribute to five Piolet d’Or recipients who perished during the last year due to tragic mountain accidents concerning five Piolets d’Or recipients. These are:

Kazuya Hiraide (45) and Kenro Nakajima (39y) were killed in a fall from high on K2 in late July, 2024, while attempting a new route on the west face.

Dmitry Golovchenko (40) was killed on Aug 31, 2023, while attempting a new route on the southeast ridge of Gasherbrum IV.

Sergey Nilov (47), his partner on GIV and other major ascents, was killed by a serac fall on Aug 17, 2024, during an Expedition to recover Golovchenko’s body.

Archil Badriashvili (34) was killed during a thunderstorm on Aug 10, 2024, on the Descent of Shkhelda in the Caucasus.
平出和也的技术攀登作品

    2001
        Kula Kangri East Peak (7381m), Pakistan, first ascent
        Cho Oyu (8201m) China, summit, ski down from top
    2003
        Kunyang Chhish (7852m), Pakistan, first try, west face
    2004
        Golden Peak (7027m), Pakistan, new route, north west ridge, summit
        Lila Peak (6200m), Pakistan, new route, east face, summit
        Kunlun Mustag (6355m), China, new route, summit
    2005
        Mustag Ata (7564m), China, second ascent, east ridge, summit, ski down to west side
        Shivling (6543m), India, new route, north face to west face, summit
    2007
        Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, north east face
    2008
        Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan, summit
        Broad Peak (8047), Pakistan, summit
        Kamet (7756m), India, new route, south east face, summit
    2009
        Gasherbrum I (8068m), Pakistan, Summit
        Gaurishankar (7134m), China, first try, east face
    2010
        Ama Dablam (6856m), Nepal, first try, north west face
    2011
        Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side, summit
        Naimonanyi (7694m), China, new route, south west ridge, summit, south peak (7200m), first ascent, first try, south east face
    2012
        Khan Tengri (7010m), Kazakh, north side, summit
        Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
    2013
        Everest (8848m), Nepal, summit
        Diran (7266m), Pakistan, west ridge, summit
        Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, first try, south west face
    2014
        Everest (8848m), Nepal, south side
        Hkakabo Razi (5881m), Myanmar, first try, north ridge
    2015
        Everest (8848m), China, north side
        Api (7132m), Nepal, north side, summit
    2016
        Everest (8848m), China, north side, summit
    2017
        Shispare (7611m), Pakistan, new route, north east face
    2019
        Rakaposhi (7788m), Pakistan, new route, south face
    2023
        Tirich Mir (7708m), Pakistan, new route, north face
一语成谶,标红的那种话是不能随便说的,因为会影响潜意识,尤其是这种级别的攀登

Ischii Sports has announced on its website that it has called off any potential rescue of Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima.

The celebrated alpinists fell from 7,000m on the West Face of K2 on Saturday. A rescue helicopter spotted their two motionless bodies in the snow on Sunday but could not land. Yesterday, as their film crew moved down to Base Camp, they reported seeing the bodies, still motionless.

According to the Japan Times, a large crack (or serac?) above the figures threatened to give way and made any potential ground rescue too hazardous. With the permission of their families, the attempt was called off.

The Japanese pair had set out to do a new alpine-style line on K2’s formidable West Face. Kazuya Hiraide has won three Piolets d’Or, including two with Kenro Nakajima. ExplorersWeb highlighted their climbs on Karun Koh in 2022 and Tirich Mir in 2023 as among the best expeditions of the year. As we reported earlier this year, Hiraide said his previous climbs have served to prepare him for the greatest challenge of his career, the West Face of K2.

I have climbed many mountains, and now I have become afraid of them,” said Hiraide in a recent documentary about their ascent of the North Face of Tirich Mir. “They scare me because now I know the danger under my feet.

本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2024-11-24 13:11 编辑

平出和也遇难的K2西壁究竟难到什么地步,为了回答这个问题让我们先看看珠峰北壁最困难的线路应该是哪条,先看看已完成的
North Face
  • (J) Integral N.E. Ridge – 1995 Japanese team
  • (L) Russian Couloir – 2004 Russian
  • (K) The Complete NE Ridge, N-NE
  • (M) South Pillar, NE Ridge-N Face-Norton Couloir I – Messner Solo Route 1980 Messner Italian
  • (N) American Direct – 1984 American
  • (O) The Great Couloir aka Norton Couloir (White Limbo) – 1984 Australian
  • (P) Russian Direct – 2004 Russian
  • (Q) Japanese Supercouloir – 1980 Japanese
  • (A) West Ridge Direct – 1979 Yugoslavian
  • (R) Canadian Variation – 1986 Canadian

本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2024-11-24 13:14 编辑

究竟哪几条有份量,我说没用,看官方答案

看到了,梅斯纳尔的solo线路榜上有名,澳大利亚的也极具份量

已完成的都这样了,计划中的更困难线路也让大家看看,作者已完成珠峰东壁线路

了解了珠峰北壁的情况就可以想象平出和也的心情,那就是珠峰的传奇已经完成,无论如何好像也无法超越,K2西壁的价值在于它还从来没被阿式过,只被俄罗斯喜马拉雅了一次,可以体会这种无奈吗?说到这,叫14座8000米的竞赛者情何以堪,还有那些已经商登珠峰实际是去高海拔旅游的人,还好意思炫耀吗?
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