五一甘肃老虎沟未登峰攀登报告 - 山伍成群 - 8264户外手机版

  山伍成群
< class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center><FONT color=#000000><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">甘肃老虎沟未登峰攀登报告(本文发表于07.6期山野杂志)</SPAN></B></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT color=#000000><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</SPAN><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN></FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">文:李红学(终极</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">lee</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">)</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT face="Times New Roman">&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图:李红学</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">/</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">谈翔</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US>ffice<IMG alt= src="./images/smilies/shocked.gif" border=0 smilieid="6">ffice" /&gt;<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000000>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">老虎沟未登峰(后简称老虎沟峰)位于甘肃省肃北蒙古族自治县境内的老虎沟冰川自然保护区内,为祁连山北段大雪山山脉独立无名峰。老虎沟冰川,亦称透明梦柯冰川,是祁连山区最大的山谷冰川,属于极大陆型的双支山谷冰川,冰川末端海拔ffice:smarttags" /&gt;<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="0" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on">4260米</st1:chmetcnv>,最高峰海拔<st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="0" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on">5483米</st1:chmetcnv>,长10.<st1:chmetcnv UnitName="公里" SourceValue="0" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on">1公里</st1:chmetcnv>,面积21.9平方公里。</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为老虎沟峰全景</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">五一受甘肃朋友谈翔的邀请,前往甘肃酒泉作为攀登队长攀登海拔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">5547</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的祁连山甘肃境内最高峰素珠连峰,后因种种原因攀登未果。由于之前从没有到过甘肃登山,每人拿着几千元的装备赞助没有真正的攀登也觉得有负</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">kailas</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的赞助。遂与前刃脊探险同事刘蕴峰商量前往大雪山山脉考察新的山峰。甘肃山友谈翔、甘肃电视台记者王博也有兴趣加入,于是一支新的“</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">KAILAS</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">祁连山未登峰登山队”组建,“</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">KAILAS VIRGIN MOUNTAIN PROJECT</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">”重新启动。</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"><FONT face="Times New Roman">&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN><st1:chsdate w:st="on" Year="2007" Month="5" Day="4" IsLunarDate="False" IsROCDate="False"><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><SPAN lang=EN-US>月</SPAN></SPAN><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><SPAN lang=EN-US>日</SPAN></SPAN></st1:chsdate><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,我、刘蕴峰、谈翔以及记者王博带上<SPAN lang=EN-US>所有技术装备,</SPAN></SPAN><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">个人、</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">个大包、两个驮包、</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">个冲顶包、一辆人货两用面包车从酒泉直往祁连山大雪山山脉所在地甘肃肃北蒙古族自治县石包城乡。经过</SPAN></FONT><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">一片茫茫戈壁,晚上</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">9</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">点我们到达海拔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">2175</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><FONT size=3>石包城。</FONT></SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000000>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为石包城的绿荫和街道</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red"><o:p>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT color=#000000><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT size=3><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN><st1:chsdate w:st="on" Year="2007" Month="5" Day="5" IsLunarDate="False" IsROCDate="False">5<SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><SPAN lang=EN-US>月</SPAN></SPAN>5<SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><SPAN lang=EN-US>日</SPAN></SPAN></st1:chsdate><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,石包成包越野车前往老虎沟。</SPAN></FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">石包城乡距离老虎沟沟口约</SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black">60</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">公里。由于透明梦柯冰川的旅游开发,从石包城到透明梦柯冰川脚下(老虎沟冰川管理站)的石梦公路正在建设中,全程除了</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black">10</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">公里已修好的沙石路后,剩下的路程路况极差。经过一路的颠簸,中午时分,我们到达了海拔395<st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="0" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on">0米</st1:chmetcnv>的肃北县老虎沟冰川管理站,这里可以作为大的队伍的</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black">basecamp</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,有宽阔的草坪。由于前段时间下了场为期一周的大雪(据修路工人说),河谷间的冰川融水太大,我们的车没有开到海拔407<st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="0" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on">0米</st1:chmetcnv>的中国科学院高山冰川研究站于1959年到1962年期间进行科考的营地旧址。下车,简单的路餐后,我们既背包向透明梦柯的方向去找新的山峰。途中遇到西安级星户外大漠带领的队伍,他们刚从透明梦柯东峰下来。我们走了不足两公里就放弃了前往透明梦柯的几个山峰,因为在我们眼前已经出现了两个非常漂亮的冰川型未登峰。一个在老虎沟沟口不远的左手边的侧沟里,为正面有两个岩石刃脊的大型冰川技术山峰(目测冰川至少是四川半脊峰两个大);另一个山峰在快到透明梦柯冰川的右手边的侧沟里,为金字塔型山峰。最后,我们选择相对容易接近的前者。为了方便推广此山,我们简单的称此山为老虎沟峰并进行尝试攀登及考察。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为大本营看老虎沟峰攀登路线</SPAN></P>
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<P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为海拔</SPAN><?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comffice:smarttags" /><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="4200" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">4200</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">冰舌下</SPAN></P>
<P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></v:path><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><v:shape id=_x0000_s1026 style="MARGIN-TOP: 148.2pt; Z-INDEX: 1; LEFT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 180pt; WIDTH: 240pt; POSITION: absolute; HEIGHT: 237pt; TEXT-ALIGN: left" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata o:title="9" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\yoyo\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\07\clip_image001.jpg"></v:imagedata><?xml:namespace prefix = w ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" /><w:wrap type="square"></w:wrap></v:shape><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">下午,我们一行四人来到了海拔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">4200</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">左右冰舌下,被眼前漂亮的冰塔林激起血液沸腾。连日来在戈壁中赶路带来的疲惫,被雪山带来的神往一扫而空。我们立即放下包,穿上安全带、冰爪,取出绳子和冰锥,准备攀登。激动,兴奋,但没有忘记这毕竟还是未登峰,而且攀上冰舌的路线还是比较复杂。观察了冰川下的雪坡地形,雪厚、坡度较大,有雪崩的可能,但幸好前两天天气非常好,雪层被晒的很硬。最后,我选了一条相对简单的路线直上冰舌。我和刘蕴峰虽然以前在刃脊探险一起作为协作曾多次一起登山带客户,但作为真正意义上的攀登(刃脊探险的未登峰攀登),他由于经验和体能等原因并没有参与冰川型雪山的冲顶,所以我们并没有很多地配合过。为了锻炼他的能力,以及考验我们的配合默契度,刚开始的几段先锋,由我</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">BELAY</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,由他</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">LEAD</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">。毕竟是攀岩和攀冰都练的不错的家伙,在直上一段大概</SPAN><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="50" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">50</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">40</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">度左右的大雪坡后,他很快到达冰舌下打了颗冰锥就要继续攀</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">70</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">度左右的冰壁。由于对于登山来说,</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">70</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的冰壁不是任何人都可以在高海拔负重下胜任的。为了安全,在我的要求下,刘蕴峰又打了两颗冰锥做一个保护站,保护谈翔和王博跟攀到他位置,并都用菊绳挂在保护点上确保安全后,再由我保护他继续先锋。</SPAN></P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为先锋队员冰壁上的艰难攀登</SPAN></P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></v:path><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><v:shape id=_x0000_s1026 style="MARGIN-TOP: 78pt; Z-INDEX: 1; LEFT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 234pt; WIDTH: 180pt; POSITION: absolute; HEIGHT: 240pt; TEXT-ALIGN: left" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata o:title="8" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\yoyo\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\07\clip_image001.jpg"></v:imagedata><w:wrap type="square"></w:wrap></v:shape><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">两个</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">PITCH</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">后,我们攀上了冰川,此时坡度已经不是很陡,但远处几条巨大的冰沟出现在我们面前。甘肃山的冰川应该是发育较好的冰川,裂缝不应该很多,很大,但这个山出现在我们面前的冰川也有比较复杂的冰瀑区,只是看起来裂缝是比较大的几条沟壑。不能排除冰沟里也会有暗裂缝的可能,先锋由我来做。又是两个</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">PITCH</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,我攀至冰瀑区边缘。往左是一片冰沟加冰塔林的地形,往右是一大片稍微有点坡度的平台。那里应该是可以建</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的地方,可是还需要过一条冰沟,想饶是饶不过去了。由于这个冰沟又宽又长,如果让一个人先锋直接过,遇到暗裂缝,会掉的很深,这样受伤和发生危险的可能性就很大。所以,我先做了一个稳固的保护站,让谈翔他们都到我的位置挂上菊绳,然后用</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">ATC-GUIDE</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">给刘蕴峰做保护。而刘蕴峰按照一个钟摆的形状更安全过雪桥后,再到冰沟对面保护其他两个人过去。我最后收尾,拆了保护站接着也安全的通过。过了冰沟不远,我们就来到了大平台</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">(</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">HB4500</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">),由于还是有一定的坡度,我们用雪铲挖了两个帐篷大的营地,平整后就开始扎帐篷。这次我和刘蕴峰带的是</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">SD</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的单层高山帐,为了防水保暖,我们挖了很深的雪建了雪墙。晚上,我们两个帐篷都用了“刃脊牌吊锅”烧水的同时给帐篷内取暖。</SPAN></P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为攀登途中队员挂在保护站休息</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</SPAN><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</SPAN></SPAN></o:p></SPAN></P></o:p></SPAN></SPAN>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 13.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员在</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red"><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">平台整理营地</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 13.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt">ffice:smarttags" /&gt;<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><st1:chsdate w:st="on" Year="2007" Month="5" Day="6" IsLunarDate="False" IsROCDate="False"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">6</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">日</SPAN></st1:chsdate><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,早,天气突变。原本还要尝试一两段老虎沟峰漂亮的冰壁直上顶峰的完美路线,但天气的原因,以及</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月在四川山难救援经历对我的影响,还有准备上的不充分等种种因素,都让我们理智地选择了放弃冲顶。虽然没有去冲顶,但为了能对甘肃雪山有更多的考察和认识,我们中午午饭后背上装备接组前往老虎沟峰的冰瀑区及冰塔林区。在饶过比较复杂的冰瀑区后,我们发现了几个非常漂亮且高大的冰塔。由于时间还早,我们交替保护下到冰舌下放了包后,又带着绳子、技术冰镐和冰锥选了一个近</SPAN><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="10" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">10</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的冰塔,顶着小雪玩了两三个小时的高海拔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">ICE CLIMBING</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">!</SPAN></P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black">ffice<IMG alt= src="./images/smilies/shocked.gif" border=0 smilieid="6">ffice" /&gt;<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><o:p>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员下撤前的合影</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员在冰川上的结组</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: .5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员在复杂的冰塔林间交替保护</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: .5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: .5"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员进行高海拔攀冰训练</SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>&nbsp;</P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">5</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">7</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">日</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,大本营撤回石包城。当天从瓜州坐火车赶回兰州。</SPAN></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN></o:p></SPAN>&nbsp;</P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">山峰的攀登路线和类型</SPAN></B><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">老虎沟峰属于具有发育良好的大型冰川的技术山峰,高度目测</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">520-5400</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">左右(由于甘肃的山峰资料很难找,希望以后有山友补上)。从海拔近</SPAN><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="4000" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4000</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">BC</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4200</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">冰舌为坡度较缓的乱石地形,不需技术装备即可攀爬(当也最好带上头盔更安全);</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4200</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4500</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">为教为破碎的冰瀑区,有巨大冰塔林,攀登此线路应先观察路线,选择最简单最容易通过的路线到达</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">平台;</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">面对峰顶有非常完美的、直通顶峰的冰壁线路,但没有良好的体能、熟练的操作以及配合默契的搭档不建议攀登此线;</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">向左可以攀登到此峰左侧冰雪山脊的大平台上搭建</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C2</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,然后沿左侧冰雪脊冲顶。</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">山峰的攀登难点和技术要求</SPAN></B><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">作为了个未登峰,个人认为此峰在首登之前只适合采用阿式小部队前往攀登,人数</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">2-4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">人最好。不论是选择哪条线路,由于之前上冰舌的坡度较陡,冲顶路线目侧也颇为陡峭攀登者必须有足够的雪山经验,熟练的冰雪操作以及良好的体能,最好是有过系统的攀冰训练。此山的冰川相对完整,至少</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月没有发现有明显的大小裂缝,主要还是以宽大的冰沟为主,但因为没有夏天雪少的资料和信息,攀登者还是应该有结组过冰裂缝的经验和技术。技术装备技术镐至少一对,冰锥、雪锥尽量多带。最后,希望有更多的</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">CLIMBER</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到甘肃祁连山探索未知的世界,这里连绵数千里的山脉一定不会让你失望!</SPAN></FONT><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></B></P>
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原帖由 <I>笨鸟非非</I> 于 2007-6-2 15:05 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&amp;pid=797756&amp;ptid=59712" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif');}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 啊?没上去呀? 呵呵,没关系,安全回来就好,山还在那里<IMG alt="" src="images/smilies/victory.gif" border=0 smilieid="14">
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<P>对,没有上去,事实是直接放弃了冲顶!山是在那里,写这篇报告是希望让更多的攀登者知道中国大地上还有很多为知的山峰和线路等待大家去探索!希望不久这座山就有来自甘肃或者其他地方的山友成功的登顶!</P>
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原帖由 <I>歪歪_79</I> 于 2007-6-3 02:32 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&amp;pid=799242&amp;ptid=59712" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif');}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 终于看到你们的照片了!照片拍得不错,报告尤其写得很好。 &nbsp; 又见到大家,高兴中!
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<P>歪歪,我的文笔在你面前就显丑了,期待我们7月的雪宝顶再次想见!</P>
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原帖由 <I>苏拉王平</I> 于 2007-6-3 17:39 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&amp;pid=800053&amp;ptid=59712" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif');}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 报告写得好!
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<P>苏拉过奖了,有空再到你那耍!</P>
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原帖由 <I>数字青蛙</I> 于 2007-6-4 23:56 发表 <A href="http://bbs.8264.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&amp;pid=804099&amp;ptid=59712" target=_blank><IMG onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif');}" alt="" src="http://bbs.8264.com/static/image/common/back.gif" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" border=0></A> 强烈要求给我放个正面!<IMG alt="" src="images/smilies/lol.gif" border=0 smilieid="12">
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<P>不好意思,攀登的照片确实没有找到你的正面照,就将就先来个背面吧,呵呵</P>
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<P>王博--抗着摄象机登山的酷男,在登山活动中不光要分摊公用器材,还要携带自己作为记录者工作的武器</P>
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<P>山上一直用摄象机记者着队伍的攀登活动和其他队友的身影,下山回到瓜州火车站才想起自拍留恋</P>
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<P>谈翔,兰州一位真正喜欢山的朋友!</P>
<P>评价他纯粹是能感觉到他真正的热爱雪山,热爱攀登的激情.</P>
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