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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 13.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员在</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red"><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">平台整理营地</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt">ffice:smarttags" /><?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><st1:chsdate w:st="on" Year="2007" Month="5" Day="6" IsLunarDate="False" IsROCDate="False"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">6</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">日</SPAN></st1:chsdate><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,早,天气突变。原本还要尝试一两段老虎沟峰漂亮的冰壁直上顶峰的完美路线,但天气的原因,以及</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月在四川山难救援经历对我的影响,还有准备上的不充分等种种因素,都让我们理智地选择了放弃冲顶。虽然没有去冲顶,但为了能对甘肃雪山有更多的考察和认识,我们中午午饭后背上装备接组前往老虎沟峰的冰瀑区及冰塔林区。在饶过比较复杂的冰瀑区后,我们发现了几个非常漂亮且高大的冰塔。由于时间还早,我们交替保护下到冰舌下放了包后,又带着绳子、技术冰镐和冰锥选了一个近</SPAN><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="10" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">10</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">的冰塔,顶着小雪玩了两三个小时的高海拔</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black"><FONT face="Times New Roman">ICE CLIMBING</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">!</SPAN></P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 11pt; mso-char-indent-count: 1.0"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员下撤前的合影</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 5.5pt; mso-char-indent-count: .5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员在复杂的冰塔林间交替保护</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">图为队员进行高海拔攀冰训练</SPAN></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">5</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-fareast-font-family: 宋体; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">7</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">日</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,大本营撤回石包城。当天从瓜州坐火车赶回兰州。</SPAN></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"></SPAN></o:p></SPAN> </P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: red"><o:p><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-font-kerning: 1.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: ZH-CN; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt"><FONT size=3><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">山峰的攀登路线和类型</SPAN></B><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">老虎沟峰属于具有发育良好的大型冰川的技术山峰,高度目测</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">520-5400</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">左右(由于甘肃的山峰资料很难找,希望以后有山友补上)。从海拔近</SPAN><st1:chmetcnv UnitName="米" SourceValue="4000" HasSpace="False" Negative="False" NumberType="1" TCSC="0" w:st="on"><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4000</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">米</SPAN></st1:chmetcnv><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">BC</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4200</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">冰舌为坡度较缓的乱石地形,不需技术装备即可攀爬(当也最好带上头盔更安全);</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4200</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">4500</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">为教为破碎的冰瀑区,有巨大冰塔林,攀登此线路应先观察路线,选择最简单最容易通过的路线到达</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">平台;</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">面对峰顶有非常完美的、直通顶峰的冰壁线路,但没有良好的体能、熟练的操作以及配合默契的搭档不建议攀登此线;</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C1</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">向左可以攀登到此峰左侧冰雪山脊的大平台上搭建</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">C2</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">,然后沿左侧冰雪脊冲顶。</SPAN></FONT></P>
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<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">山峰的攀登难点和技术要求</SPAN></B><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; tab-stops: 378.0pt"><FONT size=3><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">作为了个未登峰,个人认为此峰在首登之前只适合采用阿式小部队前往攀登,人数</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">2-4</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">人最好。不论是选择哪条线路,由于之前上冰舌的坡度较陡,冲顶路线目侧也颇为陡峭攀登者必须有足够的雪山经验,熟练的冰雪操作以及良好的体能,最好是有过系统的攀冰训练。此山的冰川相对完整,至少</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">5</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">月没有发现有明显的大小裂缝,主要还是以宽大的冰沟为主,但因为没有夏天雪少的资料和信息,攀登者还是应该有结组过冰裂缝的经验和技术。技术装备技术镐至少一对,冰锥、雪锥尽量多带。最后,希望有更多的</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US><FONT face="Times New Roman">CLIMBER</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-hansi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'">到甘肃祁连山探索未知的世界,这里连绵数千里的山脉一定不会让你失望!</SPAN></FONT><B style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal"><SPAN lang=EN-US><o:p></o:p></SPAN></B></P>
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