赫拉特 | 呼罗珊大道上的艺术都会 - 走出国门 - 8264户外手机版

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赫拉特(Herat)位于伊朗高原古老的商队路线上,作为丝绸之路的咽喉锁钥之地,在地缘zz的博弈中具有无比重要的战略位置,是呼罗珊大道的必经之地,也是阿拉伯人与蒙古人征服后幸存至今的为数不多的古城之一,在欧亚文明交往的历史中作为zz、经济和文化名城留下了浓墨重彩的一笔,为帖木儿文艺复兴提供了一个大放异彩的舞台。赫拉特的马兰桥(Malan Beidge)(图源网络)
赫拉特最早见于文字是在琐罗亚斯德教(Zoroastrianism)的圣书《阿维斯陀(Avesta)》中,其记载公元前1500年雅利安人的一个部落迁徙到哈里河(Harirud)河畔绿洲区的一个名为Haraewa的地方。早在波斯第一帝国阿契美尼德王朝(Achaemenian)时期,赫拉特就已经是呼罗珊地区(Khorasan)的zz中心和帝国行政管理机构的常驻治所,记载了这是有关赫拉特城市来源的最早记载。《阿维斯陀》书影(图源网络)
古波斯谚语云:“世界就像一个海洋,在海洋中有一颗珍珠,这颗珍珠就是赫拉特。”来到赫拉特便进入了呼罗珊地区,“呼罗珊”波斯语意为“太阳升起的地方”,位于伊朗高原东北部与阿姆河盆地接壤的地方,地处中亚与西亚的交界处,也是突厥语系和伊朗语族的融合之地,历史上赫赫有名的呼罗珊四郡便是赫拉特、梅尔夫(木鹿城,Merv)、巴里黑(蓝氏城,Balkh)和内沙布尔(Nishapuran),而赫拉特又和马什哈德(Mashhad)、阿什哈巴德(Ashgabat)共同作为现代呼罗珊地区的三大中心。对于伊斯兰教而言,呼罗珊具有敏感的地缘位置和文化交融属性——不仅是一个地名,更意味着征服与扩张,是伊斯兰教传入中亚的起点。呼罗珊地区(图源网络)
围观欣赏美景
赫拉特是我阿富汗之行的最后一站,一日游后便通过Islam Qala口岸进入伊朗,开启从马什哈德到大不里士长达三周的深度旅行。回望在阿富汗的十天,闭上双眼仿佛能看到巴米扬的大佛面朝白雪皑皑的群山,东征西伐的铁骑驰骋在喀布尔河河畔,风尘仆仆的商旅走过丝路上的蓝氏城址,千万重深沉悠扬的驼铃声响在哈里河谷渺渺回荡,与远处风声中依稀传来的人喊马嘶相互交织,就如闯入了一个并不真切的陌生世界,然而一座座恢宏而又终将湮没在历史长河中的古迹却又历历在目,蓝色波卡下的模糊背影久久萦绕在我的心中。

赫拉特大门

Islam Qala口岸

附:霍贾·阿卜杜拉·安萨里的诗歌:

A Path of Devotion

In this path the eye must cease to see,

And the ear to hear,

Save unto Him, and about Him.

Be as dust on His path.

Even the kings of this earth

Make the dust of His feet

The balm of their eyes.

Devotion for Thee

Life in my body pulsates only for Thee,

My heart beats in resignation to Thy will.

If on my dust a tuft of grass were to grow

Every blade would tremble with my devotion for Thee!

Empty Me of Everything But Your Love

Lord, send me staggering with the wine

Of Your love!

Ring my feet

With the chains of Your slavery!

Empty me of everything but Your love

And in it destroy and resurrect me!

Any hunger You awaken

Can only end in Feast!

Give Me

O Lord, give me a heart

I can pour out in thanksgiving.

Give me life

So I can spend it

Working for the salvation of the world.

In Each Breath

O you who have departed from your own self,

and who have not yet reached the Friend:

do not be sad, for

He is accompanying you in each of your breaths.

The Beauty of Oneness

Any eye filled with the vision of this world

     cannot see the attributes of the Hereafter,

Any eye filled with the attributes of the Hereafter

     would be deprived of the Beauty of Oneness.

The Friend Beside Me

O God

You know why I am happy:

     It is because I seek Your company,

     not through my own efforts.

O God,

You decided and I did not.

     I found the Friend beside me

     when I woke up!

The one You kill

The one You kill,

Lord,

Does not smell of blood,

And the one You burn

Does not reek of smoke.

He You burn laughs as he burns

And the one You kill,

As You kill him,

Cries out in ecstasy.

I Came

From the un-manifest I came,

And pitched my tent, in the Forest of Material existence.

I passed through mineral and vegetable kingdoms,

Then my mental equipment carried me into the animal kingdom;

Having reached there I crossed beyond it;

Then in the crystal clear shell of human heart

I nursed the drop of self in a Pearl,

And in association with good men

Wandered round the Prayer House,

And having experienced that, crossed beyond it;

Then I took the road that leads to Him,

And became a slave at His gate;

Then the duality disappeared

And I became absorbed in Him.

The End

圣陵西门外有一座名为Namakdan的建筑,外部为十二边形,内部为八角形,还有一座凉亭用来纪念曾因发生在这里的恐怖袭击而丧生的无辜群众,南侧有一座名为Zarnigar Khanah的建筑应该也是一座陵墓。圣陵西北的山坡上有一座由忽辛·拜哈拉建造的名为Takht-i-Safar的波斯花园,罗伯特·拜伦将其称为“旅行者王座”,由于天色渐晚便没有到访。

Namakdan

纪念亭

Zarnigar Khanah

Zarnigar Khanah

Zarnigar Khanah

精美的墓碑

睡觉的猫

圣陵的本地游客

精美的墓碑

精美的墓碑

其它陵墓

其它陵墓

其它陵墓

其它陵墓

多斯特·穆罕默德·汗陵墓

多斯特·穆罕默德·汗陵墓

Mohammad-al-Muzaffar陵墓

其它陵墓

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