赫拉特是我阿富汗之行的最后一站,一日游后便通过Islam Qala口岸进入伊朗,开启从马什哈德到大不里士长达三周的深度旅行。回望在阿富汗的十天,闭上双眼仿佛能看到巴米扬的大佛面朝白雪皑皑的群山,东征西伐的铁骑驰骋在喀布尔河河畔,风尘仆仆的商旅走过丝路上的蓝氏城址,千万重深沉悠扬的驼铃声响在哈里河谷渺渺回荡,与远处风声中依稀传来的人喊马嘶相互交织,就如闯入了一个并不真切的陌生世界,然而一座座恢宏而又终将湮没在历史长河中的古迹却又历历在目,蓝色波卡下的模糊背影久久萦绕在我的心中。
赫拉特大门
Islam Qala口岸
附:霍贾·阿卜杜拉·安萨里的诗歌:
A Path of Devotion
In this path the eye must cease to see,
And the ear to hear,
Save unto Him, and about Him.
Be as dust on His path.
Even the kings of this earth
Make the dust of His feet
The balm of their eyes.
Devotion for Thee
Life in my body pulsates only for Thee,
My heart beats in resignation to Thy will.
If on my dust a tuft of grass were to grow
Every blade would tremble with my devotion for Thee!
Empty Me of Everything But Your Love
Lord, send me staggering with the wine
Of Your love!
Ring my feet
With the chains of Your slavery!
Empty me of everything but Your love
And in it destroy and resurrect me!
Any hunger You awaken
Can only end in Feast!
Give Me
O Lord, give me a heart
I can pour out in thanksgiving.
Give me life
So I can spend it
Working for the salvation of the world.
In Each Breath
O you who have departed from your own self,
and who have not yet reached the Friend:
do not be sad, for
He is accompanying you in each of your breaths.
The Beauty of Oneness
Any eye filled with the vision of this world
cannot see the attributes of the Hereafter,
Any eye filled with the attributes of the Hereafter
would be deprived of the Beauty of Oneness.
The Friend Beside Me
O God
You know why I am happy:
It is because I seek Your company,
not through my own efforts.
O God,
You decided and I did not.
I found the Friend beside me
when I woke up!
The one You kill
The one You kill,
Lord,
Does not smell of blood,
And the one You burn
Does not reek of smoke.
He You burn laughs as he burns
And the one You kill,
As You kill him,
Cries out in ecstasy.
I Came
From the un-manifest I came,
And pitched my tent, in the Forest of Material existence.
I passed through mineral and vegetable kingdoms,
Then my mental equipment carried me into the animal kingdom;
Having reached there I crossed beyond it;
Then in the crystal clear shell of human heart
I nursed the drop of self in a Pearl,
And in association with good men
Wandered round the Prayer House,
And having experienced that, crossed beyond it;
Then I took the road that leads to Him,
And became a slave at His gate;
Then the duality disappeared
And I became absorbed in Him.
The End