一路向南，穿越美洲大陆单车旅行-美洲篇 - 走出国门 - 8264户外手机版

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/7 黑色峽谷營地--Rigway鎮的Orvis溫泉 40英里
? Rigway--San Juan國家森林436號道路隨意營地(近主要公路里程牌37英里北方) 90英里
7/9 隨意營地--Cortez 37英里

又是一天成功找到免費合法營地。再強調一次，想在國家森林裡隨意露營(dispersed camping)，人生地不熟下，一定得從國家森林官網先下載motor vehicle use map，而眾多可以隨意露營的道路中，往靠近水源(如小溪，需搭配Google maps瀏覽)的森林道路找，往往可以找到整理過的的林間營地。有人為痕跡加上國家森林地圖的佐證，完全不用擔心誤入私人土地的風險。

這幾天發生許多有趣的事。首先為了Mersa verde國家公園，我的行程得適度調整，容後詳述，也因此我可以放慢步伐。7號的溫泉營地僅距離Rigway約1英里，是我搜尋『Rigway,campground』偶然找到的。露營一晚49美金，費用包含無限使用溫泉池。雖然僅6個營位且每日限額24人(另有旅館房間)，但是我幸運的在入住的前一晚預約到營位。這裡的溫泉池十分有趣，室外池可穿可不穿，也就是我可以穿著泳褲光明正大的欣賞…，可惜沒美女。還有兩個先搶先贏但是完全不搶手的私人池(大家都跑去室外池了)。我並沒有那麼喜愛溫泉，但是有個價位合理的溫泉休閒營地倒也不賴。

從Rigway開始，道路先翻過一個小丘，之後下抵San Miguel河並沿其上溯，沿路有許多色彩紅艷的赭石，與年代古老，可明顯觀察到年代分層結理的有趣巨岩，這些地質景觀將在猶它州更常見。翻過美國之行最後一個超過3000公尺的隘口後，首先先下抵Rico鎮，往昔的採礦大鎮與Cortez郡首府，目前僅剩百餘居民。這裡也許是我到目前為止最熱情的居民，他們該晚有音樂宴會並勸我參加並在鎮外約1英里處露營，只可惜我有行程要趕。我得儘早到Cortez的旅遊中心搶Mersa verde的票。

7/7 Campground in south rim of Black canyon national park--Rigway, Orvis hot springs 40 miles
? Rigway--San Juan national forest road no. 436 dispersed campground (north of milepost 37 of main highway) 90miles
7/9 Dispersed campground--Cortez 37 miles

Another day of success in finding a lawful dispersed campground. To dispersed camp in national forest, you must download the motor vehicle use map from the national forest gov web. And the best forestry road to find dispersed campground or even a “primitive dispersed campground” is the one has water resources, by the creek for example. That's where I camped, a flat grassy field under trees, with fire pit and a lovely creek just few yards away. Human activity traces and back-up by the national forest map, I don't need to worry about stepping into private property unintentionally.

Many interesting things happened in the days. I have to adjust the schedule for visiting Mesa Verde national park(the reason will discuss in the next post), which means I could slow down in the 3 days. I found Orvis hot springs when searching “Rigway, campground “, a interesting campground just one mile off Rigway downtown. There are 6 outdoor springs pools, and users are “clothing optional” in outdoor pools, which means I could wear to watch...., no one gorgeous there sorry. Also there are two private pools, where I soaked in most of time there. I was lucky to reserve an available campsite just one day before arriving( ony 6 campsites available). I am not a very hot springs type, but it's not bad to have a place for relaxing, with reasonable price(49 per day for a person).

Cycled from Rigway, the scenic byway first cross a hill, then goes down along San Miguel river. The byway traces and goes upstream to San Miguel river until the last pass over 3000 meters in my journey in USA, Lizard head pass. Along the road are numerous beautiful red rocks and joints of rock outcrop of different ancient eras, which the scenery is more common in Utah, my future journey. Beyond San Juan pass, the road winds down to Rico, a pass mining town and Cortez county seat, just few residents there nowadays. But people in Rico might be the most welcoming in my road until now. They have a music party and invited me to join and suggested me to camped 1 mile away from the town. I really want to but I can't. I have to arrive Colorado welcome center in Cortez to battle for the tickets to Mesa Verde national park. 接近隘口，Trout湖與背後赭岩帶有殘雪山峰 路景 路上的有趣岩石結理，每層都代表不同的古老年代 美國行最後的3000公尺以上隘口 溫泉室外池，雖然規定不可照相，但是早上沒人…。貓很精明的選了一個比較不燙口的 文章提到的隨意營地，有人為痕跡(石造取火爐等) 赭岩與路景

7/5 Monarch mountain lodge--Gunnison鎮--Cimarron鎮，pleasant valley私人營地 90英里
7/6 黑色峽谷國家公園一日遊

這兩天有兩個主要景點，Curecanti遊憩區上游的峽谷道路，峽谷不深但是仍有特色。和1999年才成立的黑色峽谷國家公園。黑色峽谷成因為Gunnison河對因火山噴發與爾後發生在4千到7千萬年前的Gunnison隆起作用(Gunnison uplift)形成的台地的切割作用。火山岩質地較軟，切割作用快，基岩結晶岩(crystalline structure)質地硬，切割作用慢，而近年Gunnison上游的三個水壩又降低了切割作用。因為峽谷深陽光難以穿透，因此有『黑色』之稱

黑色峽谷是北美第五深峽谷，但是相對大峽谷與優勝美地遊客少，國家公園道路分為南北緣，兩者並不連結。我這次參觀的是較易抵達的南緣，並在南緣營地過夜。當日有預約，因為我搶不贏汽車。

Two main amazing sights in the two days. The road upstream of Curecanti national recreation area(one of dams of Gunnison river) winds through shadow canyon, not deep but still attractive. And black canyon national park founded in 1999. The black canyon is formed by Gunnison river cutting through soft volcanic island uplifted between 70 and 40 million years ago(part of the Gunnison Uplift). The volcanic rock is softer and vulnerable to river cutting and formed the deep canyon. The base structure is crystalline and hard enough to slow down the cutting. Also 3 dams upstream of the canyon further slowing down the cutting action. The depth makes sunshine penetrate difficult, so the canyon has the name of “black”.

Although as 5th depth canyon in north America, black canyon national park receives comparatively less tourists than great canyon and Yosemite. The two main road systems--south rim and north rim, are not connected to each other. I visited easily accessible south rim and overnighted in the campground there. Reserved a site of course, because I can't battle for and win the site with motorized vehicles. Gunnison水壩，水壩淹沒舊鐵軌，在陽光反射下有特殊色彩 Gunnison水壩 Gunnison水壩前的峽谷景觀 Gunnison水壩前的峽谷景觀 Gunnison水壩與村落 黑色峽谷，不同顏色形成於不同年代 黑色峽谷，攝於主要公路，非國家公園 黑色峽谷 黑色峽谷 黑色峽谷 形成於至少千萬年前的古岩層

Please read the English version in the second half of this article.

7/2 Estes park--Idaho springs 70英里
7/3 愛達荷泉(Idaho springs)--Quandary峰健行步道起點 62英里
7/4 Quandary--Monarch mountain lodge 82英里

翻不完的山路。超過3000公尺的隘口至少有3個。包括本次行程落磯山脈最高點的3655公尺的loveland隘口。

這段路是丹佛都會區的遊樂場，冬季滑雪，夏季健行與高山湖泊水上活動，這段路也是目前我看到最多公路自行車的路段，包含7/2的峰峰相連到天邊公路(peak to peak highway)，與7/3與7/4連結眾多滑雪勝地的山路。

我的行程由海拔接近2300公尺的Estes park開始，道路一路拔高，經過幾個因淘金潮發跡的小鎮【目前人們還是到黑鷹(black hawk)與中心城(central city)這兩個賭城淘金】。其中尼得蘭(Netherland)到黑鷹(Black hawk)的約20公里，山路大概以2-3公里為一循環的髮夾彎上下坡，十分煩人，完全無法按照自己的節奏騎行。最後道路下抵愛達荷溫泉。

這幾天是美國獨立連假，想必與實際詢問的結果，宣稱有療效的愛達荷溫泉無空房(他們有一晚72美金(共用衛浴)含無限使用溫泉大眾池的房間)。當日露營地點後段詳述。從海拔大約2200的愛達荷泉到本次行程落磯山脈隘口最高點也是滑雪勝地的loveland隘口，最困難的也許不是隘口前4英里平均坡度約6%(以公里計算)的陡坡，而是中段極不符合人體工學的自行車道，動不動就有超過10%的極陡坡。

上一篇貼文提到，美國國家森林官網可下載『motor vehicle use map』了解該國家森林那些區域可隨意露營，避免誤入私人土地。我靠這些資料在愛達荷泉成功找到『秘密營地』，雖然沒有標示，但是當晚陪伴我的除了夜景星空還有兩台露營車，想必極受當地人歡迎，並只有當地人知道。

但是隔日就沒那麼幸運。7/3整路詭異的沒有私人露營地，即使像Breckenridge繁忙的城鎮。離開因舉辦藝術活動塞滿人車的Breckenridge，我靠Google maps來到隘口前2英里的Quandary峰步道起點，本以為可以在屬於國家森林的登山步道起點附近露營，但是『不准露營』斗大的字打亂我的計劃。但是夜色已低垂，我當作沒看到露營禁令的在一個稍微隱密的地方露營。在連假推波助瀾之下，這條登山步道十分繁忙，有人11點才下山，有人半夜3點就開始健行，搞得我徹夜難眠，幸好沒人把我搖醒叫我滾蛋。幸好7/4翻過Hoosier隘口後，幾乎一路下坡到Poncha springs。不像愛達荷泉般繁忙，Poncha泉旅客稀疏，我在這裡並沒有找到溫泉。目前溫泉泉水被送5英里遠的城鎮Salida的水療中心。(aquatic center)

7/2 Estes park--Idaho springs 70 miles
7/3 Idaho springs--Quandary peak trailhead 62miles
7/4 Quandary--Monarch mountain lodge 82 miles

Mountainous terrain, at least 3 passes over 3000 meters in this section. Including the highest pass(3655m) in my journey in Rocky mountains--Loveland pass.

This section is the playground for residents of Denver metropolitan. Several ski resort and high altitude lakes, and numerous hiking trails. This section is also popular with local cyclists. Including peak to peak highway on 2th July. And the mountainous road connecting several ski resorts on 3 and 4 July.

My journey started at Estes park in about 2300 meters in altitude. I went south on peak to peak highway, climbed up to 3000 meters. This hilly highway winds through several once prosperous towns out of gold rush. Although gold rush faded, people still come to here for outdoor activities, and some of them try to find gold, in casinos instead of the riverbank, Black hawk and Central city for example.

The road section from Netherland to Black hawk is undulating. Hair-pins uphill for about1-2 miles, then hairpins downhill for another 1-2 miles, then hairpins uphill…. I can't cycle on my own path on section. The final section of the day is steep downhill to Idaho springs.

The most exhausting section on 7/3 is not the 4-mile-long 6% grade to Loveland pass, is the cycle path with several unfriendly short section over 10% grade before it.

7/4 is UAS independent day and I can expect no vacancy in Idaho springs hotel, which has the room(? bathroom) for 72 dollars with unlimited public hot springs pool access. Some says the hot springs is therapeutic, true or not but at least fatigue eliminating.

On my last post mentioned that we could download the “ motor vehicle use map” from gov web of USA national forest, which tells us where to do dispersed camping and where is “ no trespassing” private property. I found one just about 2 miles out of Idaho springs downtown. 2RV overnighted there with me. It seems that the dispersed campsite is popular with locals, but seldom known for travelers.

But I didn't luck up on 7/3. No private campground on this section, so I planned to camp on the trailhead of Quandary peak after leaving crowded Breckenridge(due to art events in independent day) But the signpost “no camping” made me hesitate. I still decided to camp there because of lacking of options and getting dark. The trail is quite busy, especially in holidays. Some hikers went back at around 11pm, and some hikers started off at around 3 am. I had trouble sleeping but at least nobody woke me up and told me “get out, no camping here.” 7/4 is an easy day comparatively, almost downhill to Poncha springs. Not like Idaho springs, tourists are scarce in Poncha springs, and I can't find hot springs here. The hot springs pool is in aquatic center of Salida,about 5 miles away.
Buena Vista鎮 Fairplay鎮 Loveland隘口前，底下為跨州高速公路，隧道由底下通過隘口 Loveland隘口前 peak to peak公路路景，尼得蘭(Netherland)鎮 peak to peak公路路景，文章提到的反覆鬼打牆的髮夾彎上下坡 peak to peak公路路景 peak to peak公路路景 peak to peak公路路景 peak to peak公路路景 愛達荷泉露營地點，石堆(取火用)是當地人堆的 愛達泉鎮 賭城黑鷹(black hawk) 賭城中心城(central city) 路景，草坡 路景，後段(Buena Vista到Poncha springs)的峽谷 路景與Quandary峰 路景與Quandary峰 路景與自行車道，Fairplay北方 露營地點，繁忙的步道 文章提到的自行車道

本帖最后由 不羁的驴子 于 2017-11-23 22:36 编辑

之前提到國家森林可亂紮營，但是一不小心會跑進私人土地。幸好國家森林網站有提供詳細地圖可下載。

先說結論
1.了解要去那個國家森林，找到該國家森林官網。
2.在官網中找到motor vehicle use map連結並下載
3.該地圖有dispersed camp資料，就是允許亂紮營的意思。
舉例而言，我明天可能會在Idaho springs鎮附近紮營，小鎮附近沒有可紮營的營地，但是旁邊有國家森林Arapado and Roosevelt 中的clear creek ranger creek分區，下載motor vehicle use map網站的地圖開啟後，『dispersed camping』的相關內容就是可以亂紮營。

除此之外，Google maps上綠綠的區域有可能是國家森林。用『xx(地名),national forest』搜網頁搜尋就會出現國家森林官網，在官網內可以找尋下載『motor vehicle use map』。
7/1 落磯山國家公園高山湖泊健行

Conclusion comes first
1. Find which national forest you are going.  Find the gov web.
2. Find and download "motor vehicle use map" from the web.
3. The information about dispersed camping is where you are allowed to random camping.

Tourists is allowed to random camp in national forest, but how to camp without trespassing ** lands?  National forest website provides downloadable maps for details information.

For example, I may cycle to Idaho springs,Colorado tomorrow.  No tenting sites in/near town.  But clear creek ranger district of Arapadp and Roosevelt national forest is just next to it.   Download the motor vehicle use map from the web, you could find information about  "dispersed camping", which allows random camping in the national forest.

The green area in Google maps might be a national forest.  Search"xx(name of the town), national forest", usually we could find the national forest gov page.  And the motor vehicle use map on the page.
High altitude lakes in Rocky mountain national park. Deam湖(夢湖) Haiyata 湖，特殊的顏色 Mills湖 Nymph湖 步道 步道仍有殘雪








無名池塘 無名池塘鳥瞰 招牌Bear湖(熊湖)

本帖最后由 不羁的驴子 于 2017-11-21 22:17 编辑

黃石公園是巨大的活火山，而噴泉(geyser)和地熱(hot springs)等是招牌。約是寶石藍的溫泉溫度越高。
The Yellowstone national park is just like a living volcano, geysers and hot springs are something most appealing. Blue springs are usually hotter.
Artists paintpot Beryl springs biscuit basin,黃石公園的招牌之一 biscuit basin Mammoth hot springs Mammoth hot springs Mammoth hot springs midway geyser basin monument Geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin Norris geyser basin的steamboat geyser 老忠實噴泉，約91分鐘噴發一次 位於黃石湖畔的western thumb geyser basin，注意照片的鹿(elk)

說笑說笑,客氣客氣.

Please read the English version in the second half of this article. Briefly description for the day.
6/30 落磯山國家公園trail ridge road，從西側的Timber creek營地(海拔約2700)--最高點海拔3713公尺--東側起點的Estes park鎮，海拔約2200公尺 40英里
今天大概是這次旅程以來最早出發的一天。
7點出發，除了避免車潮，更重要的是避免山頂森林線之上的午後強風。7英里到落磯山脈隘口，翻過落磯山脈後道路並非往下，而是繼續爬升。熊牙公路上有世界最高的商店，而這條trail ridge road有時間更高的商店，距離營地12英里，海拔近3600公尺，從這裡到沒有標示，只有一堆車的停車場的最高點大約3英里，海拔3713公尺。最高點到東側道路端點Estes park25英里，Estes park海拔約2200。
接近中午仍可感受到一陣陣的強風，道路沒有護欄加上車流越來越多，有時讓我感到緊張。路上自行車不少，但是像我這樣五花亂綁的自行車倒少見，沒當我停車，總有旅客對我的車仔細打量。景觀就看照片吧。
Might be the earliest day to start off until now in the journey.
Started at around 7 am , not only to beat the traffic, but also to avoid the windy afternoon above the tree line. From Timber creek campground, about 7 miles to Milner pass of the grand divide. Beyond the pass, trail ridge road not wind down to the valley, but still gains altitude. Top of the world store on beartooth highway, higher than the top of the world store on trail ridge road, the summer only snack bar, located at altitude near 3600, is 12 miles from Timber creek campground, and only about 3 miles to the highest point. No signpost on the highest point, which is 3713m in altitude, but a filled-up parking lot. From here to east point of trail ridge road, Estes park, is about 25 miles and almost all downhill.
Gusty winds and heavier traffic near mid noon, to cycle on the guardrail-absent road sometimes makes me nervous. Numerous cyclists but not so many with heavy loads like me. Drivers looked at my loaded bicycle with curiosity when I stopped. Please refer to the scenery along the road. 路景，髮夾彎 最高點步道與底下的公路
elk 海拔近3600的點心吧 路景，道路無護欄 路景，髮夾彎 路景 落磯山脈隘口，非最高點 前方為最高點 山谷的Timber creek營地 西側路景 最高點，3713公尺 最高點步道的特色岩塊 最高點步道與底下的公路 最高點的道路穿過岩壁

某些網路原因，圖片經常難以上傳……小弟也是很難……對不住……

照片說明,我沒有意見.......
對樓主發文貼照片的速度有少許意見:
可以勤力點嗎?等著看貼.
哈哈.........

Please read the English version in the second half of this article

6/26.Jeffrey city--羅林斯(Rawlins) 67英里

6/27 羅林斯--Riverside 60英里

6/28 Riverside--國家森林裡亂紮營 84英里

6/29 路邊營地--格蘭比鎮(Granby)--落磯山國家公園Timber creek營地 42英里

果然不能誇讚的太早。

當我還在讚美黃石國家公園的健行者/單車客營地時(biker/hiker campsites)，我經由電話確認位於科羅拉多州的落磯山國家公園沒有這種設計。甚至接電話的資訊中心服務員不知道健行者/單車客營地是什麼。

這可能有其原因。翻越落磯山國家公園的ridge trail road東西總長僅48英里，多數單車客選擇一日騎完。而幾乎比鄰丹佛都會區的落磯山國家公園算是丹佛居民的『遊樂場』，而不像黃石國家公園相對距離主要都會區較遠。

但即時一日騎完，東西兩側的住宿還是一大問題，單車客要怎麼提前一個月預定住宿呢？更別說難度較低，也可一日騎完的冰河國家公園有健行者/單車客營地。落磯山國家公園沒有這種設計，實在太沒道理。

翻越落磯山國家公園的ridge trail road最高點達3713公尺，雖然東西起點各約2200與260公尺，仍不容小覷。不只高度，更需考量森林線以上的強風，最好在中午之前離開山頂。單車客被風吹倒不是新聞。

考量載重與以上因素，我決定29日先抵達『基地營』，距離西側道路起點8英里海拔約2750的Timber creek營地，這是這條公路唯一先搶先贏營地，不像其他營地至少需提前1個月前預約。先搶先贏對單車客極有壓力，我怎麼搶的過汽車呢？因此，我的策略是，儘可能早到收費亭，只要Timber creek營地還有空位，收費員就沒理由不讓我進來，至於營地會不會我從收費站騎到營地的這段時間客滿，管他的，路邊森林很大片。

營地費用方面，健行者/單車客營地為共享概念，收費自然低很多。Timber creek一個營位26美金，對只需要一小個空間露營的單車客極不合理。但是，更不合理的收費還在後頭。

其他路程方面，國家森林以外就是暴風大草原，國家森林裡允許遊客隨地紮營，除非另有規定。

6/26.Jeffrey city--Rawlins 67miles

6/27 Rawlins--Riverside 60miles

6/28 Riverside--camp in national forest 84miles

6/29 national forest random camp--Granby--Timber creek campground in Rocky mountain national park 42miles

When I was admiring the campgrounds preserved for hiker/bikers in Yellowstone national park,the hiker/biker campsites. I learned it's indeed unusual in USA. No hiker/biker campsites in Rocky mountain national park.

It seems for a reason, the only parkway through Rocky mountain national park, trail ridge road, is only 48 miles, not difficult for cyclists to pass through in one day. And Rocky mountain national park is near Denver, you could choose to overnight there.

But it is indeed ridiculous that no hiker/biker campsites in Rocky mountain national park. There is hiker/biker campsites in Glacier national park, and it's easier to cycle through Glacier national park. And cyclists can't reserve accommodation before one month. Even the cyclist could make it through in one day, where could he overnight in the towns on two ends of the parkway?

Highest point of trail ridge road is at altitude 3713m, but the two ends of trail ridge road located at elevation of approximately 2200 and 2600. Not very much altitude gains, but still not so easy to ride. Not only high altitude, also the strong winds above the tree line, it's better to leave the summit before mid noon. It's not a news that a cyclist is knocked down by sudden strong gust.

Cycling with heavy load and the factors mentioned above, I decided to overnight at the “base camp”,Timber creek campground, 8 miles from the national park gate. It's the only “first arrived, first served” campground along trail ridge road, I don't need to reserve a site at least before one month. I tried to make to the gate as early as possible, if there is vacancy in Timber creek campground, the staff doesn't have any reason to not let me in. Whether Timber creek is filled up when I cycle from the gate to Timber creek, I don't care. Vast forest on the roadside, I don't like to disobey the rules, but I will do this if necessary. Luckily I got a site.

About the camping fee, hiker/biker campsites is cheaper because it's about many cyclists sharing one site. But I have to occupy one site in Timber creek campground, or in Rocky mountain national park. 26 dollars per night, really unreasonable for a cyclist who only needs a small place to stay. There's still something more unreasonable.

About the travel in other days, outside national forest is windy prairie. Tourist could random camp in national forest unless otherwise noted.

Walden鎮，單車旅客集散餐廳，有網路可充電 隘口往落磯山國家公園路景，位於國家森林內 暴風草原，前方山稜為落磯山脈主稜，公路會經過其隘口，看起來很近，但是道路距離至少40公里 笨鳥在賞味土撥鼠煎餅，殊不知它自己也可能會變成煎餅 格蘭比(Granby)湖 格蘭比(Granby)湖 國家森林可隨意紮營 科羅拉多州界牌 落磯山脈隘口，位於國家森林內 文章提到的Timber creek營地，位於落磯山國家公園