EDELRID Mega Jul攀岩保护器使用说明 - 装备天下 - 8264户外手机版

  装备天下
Edelrid Mega Jul 攀岩保护器具有独特的设计,全面的功能和舒心的外形,总体来说,它是一款有创新性的优秀攀岩保护器。
Mega Jul保护器产品简介

1、基本信息

产品编号:717840006630

保护器的高制动性能可以协助保护员更好的进行先锋冲坠保护。

保护跟攀者进行释放时,可使用另一把主锁连接到释放孔,通过抬起释放孔一端来解除锁定。

本装备用途广泛,适用于先锋保护、上方保护两名跟攀者和沿绳下降。

通过用拇指将保护器保持在
“打开”位置,可以更快地给绳,用于下放攀登者。

保护器采用了坚固的不锈钢结构。

适用的绳索直径:7.8-10.5mm

2、技术信息

适合的绳索直径:7.8 – 10.5mm

原产国:德国

重量:65

3、用户手册

Mega/ Micro Jul产品说明书

符合性声明Mega Jul

4、使用说明书及测试标准(进一步说明)

EN15151-2测试标准

保护器检查方法[1]

PRODUCT INFORMATION

High braking performance assists the belayer with leaderfalls

Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner whenbringing up your partner

For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, alsosuitable for abseiling

Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holdingdevice in the “open” position with the thumb

Robust solid stainless steel construction

Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Approved rope diameter [mm]: 7,9 - 10,5(官方网站原文写的是7.9,我认为此处写错了)

country of origin: Germany

Weight: 65 g

MANUAL

User manual Mega / Micro Jul

Declaration of Conformity Mega Jul

INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES

EN 15151-2

Inspection Instruction Belay Devices



二、MICRO JUL攀岩保护器产品简介

1、基本信息

产品编号:717640006630

半绳和对绳的紧凑型超轻型保护器。

Flycatcher 6.9 mm唯一合适的设备。

用拇指将装置保持在“打开”位置,可以更快地释放绳索。

材质:不锈钢

适用绳索直径:6.9-8.0 mm半绳和双绳,以及8.9 mm以下的单绳

2、技术信息

适合的绳索直径:6.9 – 8.9mm

原产国:德国

重量:62

三、MEGA JUL/MICRO JUL产品说明书[11]

保护器符合下列要求:符合EN15151-22类标准,用于先锋保护和顶绳保护,以及攀岩时下放或沿绳下降操作。

Braking device acc. to EN 15151-2, Type 2 for securingof a lead climber or top rope climber, for securing with rope deflection (toproping) and for lowering or abseiling during climbing.

使用、安全、寿命、储存和保养的说明

说明书包含了在使用产品前必须了解的重要信息。

登山、攀岩、高空作业等活动受到外部因素的影响,不可避免的存在潜在的风险。永远不能排除发生事故的风险。有关更详细和全面的信息,请参考相关的专门资料。本说明对于确保适当和正确地使用本装备非常重要。然而,他们不能取代经验、负责任的行为和对攀登固有风险的认知,也不能免除用户的任何个人责任。

使用者必须受过训练、富有经验,或在相应的指导和看护下使用。

首次使用前,用户必须熟知安全使用环境和装备具备的功能。

如果装备被滥用或使用不当,制造商不承担任何责任。所有的风险和责任都始终由用户承担。

在任何情况下,责任和风险都由用户或对其负有责任的个人承担。

INSTRUCTIONSFOR USAGE, SAFETY, LIFESPAN, STORAGE AND CARE

This information leaflet containsimportant information which must be understood before the product is used.

Mountaineering, climbing and workingat heights and in depths often harbor hidden dangers and risks caused byexternal influences. Risk of accidents can never be excluded. For more detailedand comprehensive information, please refer to relevant special literature. Thefollowing instructions are important to ensure appropriate and correct use ofthe equipment. However, they cannot replace experience, responsible behaviourand awareness of the risks inherent in mountaineering, climbing and working atheights and in depths and do not release the user from any personal responsibility.

Use of the equipment is only permittedto fit and experienced individuals or under appropriate guidance and tuition.

Prior to first use the user mustfamiliarize in safe surroundings with the function of the device.

The manufacturer cannot be held liableif the equipment has been abused or used incorrectly. All risks andresponsibilities are borne by the user at all times.

The responsibility and risk in allcases lie with the user or persons responsible for him.

产品专门使用说明和图解PRODUCT-SPECIFIC NOTES 本说明书适用于EDELRIDMEGA JULMICROJULMEGAJUL SPORT三款保护器。


a. (上方保护)锚点连接孔Suspension eye

b. 释放孔Unlocking eye

c. 绳索槽Rope slots

d. 拇指托架(解锁环)Thumb bracket

e. 钢缆支架Wire bracket

1. Components:

a. Suspension eye

b. Unlocking eye

c. Rope slots

d. Thumb bracket

e. Wire bracket


2.各款保护器适合的绳子种类和直径

2. Table of rope types and diameters to be used

Mega Jul适用于较粗的绳子,单绳直径为8.9-10.5mm

Micro Jul适用于较细的绳子,单绳直径为8.9mm以下。

Mega Jul 绳索槽的内壁宽度为15mm(手工测量)。

Micro Jul 绳索槽的内壁宽度为11mm(手工测量),MicroJul明显开口尺寸更小,因此更适用于细绳子。


3.保护器穿绳子的正确方法

注意:带有拇指托架的方向为制动端

将绳索弯成绳耳,穿过绳索槽,并与主锁连接。确保拇指托架(制动端)指向远离保护员的方向。保护器必须通过带有锁闭功能的主锁连接到安全带的保护环上。

3. Inserting the rope:

Feed rope sling(s) through the ropeslot(s) and attach karabiner. Be sure the thumb bracket points away from theperson securing others. The device must be attached to the tie-in loop of theclimbing harness by means of a karabiner with snap-action automatic gate.


4.建议使用EDELRID HMS Strike FGHMS Strike Slider FG主锁。

4左图,如果选择其他类型的主锁,请确保使用HMS自动主锁(梨型锁),如果可能的话,请使用带有防翻转功能的主锁,并将保护器连接在主锁的大头(工作面)。如果用主锁小头连接保护器,可能会影响保护器的制动效果。

补充说明:主锁的正确安装方向为大头朝前,始终由主锁大头接触绳子和保护器。

4中间图,主锁小头朝前是错误的。

4右图,不能使用带有大范围挡片的锁具,因为拇指托架尺寸太大,在制动过程中,拇指托架的钢丝部分会进入主锁很大的距离,钢丝可能和挡片发生结构干涉,影响制动和解锁效果。挡片的结构范围不能超过主锁的锁门下边缘。不能使用O型锁。

不适合搭配Edelrid Micro Jul保护器使用的主锁

4. We recommend using an HMS Strike FGor HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner.

Wenn selecting an alternativekarabiner type, be sure an HMS automatic gate karabiner (pear shaped), ifpossible with turning preventer, is used and that the securing device isattached on the wide end of the karabiner. A small/pointed karabiner attachedto the securing device may impair the brake function.



5.先锋保护或顶绳保护时

5a.先锋保护给绳的操作方法,制动手同时握住拇指托架和绳索的制动端,制动手(握住绳子制动端的手)把拇指托架向上抬起,以解除制动模式,同时导向手向上抽出绳索,实现给绳操作。

5b.收绳的操作方法,导向手向回拉攀爬端的绳子,同时制动手从保护器制动端抽出绳子,抽绳后立即向下压。

5. Securing during lead climbing /top-rope securing:

If a lead climber or top rope climberis secured, the rope may be handed out with the thumb method (Fig. 5a). In thethumb method, the braking hand (hand holding the braking rope) holds thesecuring device up at the thumb bracket, while the guiding hand pulls the ropefrom the device. To draw the rope back (Fig. 5b), the guiding hand pulls therope in; while the braking hand pulls the rope through the securing device.


6a.在任何时候,制动手永远不能松开绳子的制动端!并且,制动手要完全握住制动端。

6b.制动手不能同时握住绳子的攀爬端和制动端

6c.制动手不能抬起来高于保护器,此时制动力最小。不进行给绳和收绳操作时,制动端必须始终置于保护器的下方。制动手的大拇指应朝向保护器,不能反握绳子。

不遵守上述任何一条规定(图6a6b6c6d),都可能导致致命事故!

6. At all times, the brake rope mustbe held completely with the braking hand!

If securing is carried out in front ofthe body, the ropes must not be held with one hand only. If rope is neithergiven out nor drawn back, the braking hand must be positioned below thesecuring device and the thumb of the braking hand must point to the device.Non-observance of any of these rules (Fig. 6a, 6b, 6c, 6d) may result in fatalaccidents!

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