本帖最后由 hollowmoon 于 2012-11-12 21:59 编辑
[Hayden leading some cold and scrappy but easy mixed pitches toward our second bivy at about 6800 meters.]
[Hayden正在领攀寒冷且支离破碎的混合路段，朝着前方海拔在大约6800米的第二个营地（前进）。]
After a much shorter day of climbing than our first, the three of us chopped a narrow tent platform in a small snowfield at about 6800 meters, and crammed into the tiny First Light tent, preparing for an uncomfortable night. We looked forward to exploring the steep and beautiful red granite corner above our bivy, but before climbing the next day we needed to address Josh's condition, which had significantly worsened. Watching him climb had left me feeling uneasy, and now as he lay in the tent his face appeared swollen as he strained to breathe. Through the night he coughed, even spitting blood at one point, but other than being extremely uncomfortable his condition seemed to be stable. It was obvious he had some level of cerebral edema and as he snoozed Hayden and I looked at each other out of concern for his situation.
经历了比前一天短了许多的攀登，我们三人在6800米高的一小片雪地上铲出了（用于）搭帐篷的狭窄平台，并硬挤进超轻帐篷，做好准备熬过一个不爽的夜晚。我们向着营地上方迷人而险峻的红色花岗岩探视，但在进行接下来一天的攀登之前，我们需要忙于（打理）Josh已经显著恶化的状态。（白天）我看着他攀爬时感到揪心，而现在他面色浮肿地躺在帐篷里，呼吸不畅。（当晚）他咳嗽一宿，有一阵甚至咯血了，但除了（觉得）非常不舒服以外，病情似乎还算稳定。很明显他有一定程度的脑水肿，当他迷迷糊糊的时候，我和Hayden出于对他的关心，两人彼此对视无语。
The following morning I woke up and peered out the tent door. Thin wispy clouds swirled below and around us, and through the space between them blue skies shined on the southern Karakoram. I had seen this weather before in Pakistan and knew that it could go either way. Heavy snowfall would turn our situation into a very serious one, I thought to myself. Hayden must have had a similar thought. "We need to decide what we're doing and go for it," he said. Groggily, Josh opened his eyes, "I'm worked," was all he said and rolled back over in his sleeping bag.
第三天早上我醒来后从帐门向外凝望。飘渺的薄云在我们周围和下方盘旋，透过云层间隙，蓝天映照着南边的喀喇昆仑群山。此前，我已经在巴基斯坦见识过这种天气，并且知道这天气有可能变好也可能变坏。大规模的降雪将使我们的处境变得严峻，我心想。Hayden一定也有相同的想法。“我们得决定接下来做什么并马上执行！”他说。Josh慢慢悠悠地睁开双眼说：“我累P了。”说完这句他就又滚回睡袋里了。
I'd like to say that our decision to leave Josh at the tent, while Hayden and I tried to blast to the summit, was a difficult one. At 7000 meters, life's fragile existence can quickly become extinct. Maybe Josh's condition would turn severe, maybe Hayden and I wouldn't return from our summit push, thus leaving him stranded without ropes to get down, or maybe the mountain would take us all. It sounds dignified to say that the decision was tough, but while the three of us sat in the tent that morning suspended so high above the earth, there was very little discussion about the devastating possibilities. Josh would stay in the tent and go no higher; we left him with the stove, extra food, and an extra sleeping bag. Hayden and I racked up, tied in, and would blast the final 350 meters to the 7,285-meter summit of the Ogre, and get back to Josh as quickly as possible.
我们决定把Josh留在营地，而我和Hayden尝试直奔顶峰，我想说这是非常艰难（的选择）。在7000米的海拔，脆弱的生命能很快地走向消亡。有可能Josh的病情将变得严重，可能我和Hayden无法再从顶峰的冲刺中身退，而令困境中的他连下降的绳子都没有；更或者，我们都将被大山收走。说起来做这个艰难抉择（的嘲）是很凝重的，但是当那天早上我们三人坐在高悬出地面的帐篷里时，极少探讨过的灾难性的后果。Josh将留守帐中，不再爬升，我们俩给他留下炉头、额外的食物和睡袋。我和Hayden背包上肩，打好绳结，向7285米的Ogre顶峰发出最后350米的冲刺，并眷回到Josh身边。
Maybe Hayden and I were blinded by the summit, maybe it was a dumb decision for Josh to say, "Go." The three of us had cast aside the mantra of 'stay together in the mountains,' and surely our decision deserves some level of scrutiny. However, in the mountains and in every moment with the people that we choose to have adventures with in the mountains, we must constantly be aware of ourselves, our surroundings, and communicate these perceptions. If Josh had said that he needed to go down, Hayden and I would have done so. If either Hayden or I had felt a strong enough conviction that leaving Josh was not a good idea or that the terrain above was too dangerous then would have gone down. If any of us had felt differently about the circumstance, then we would not have made the decision that we did. Each moment in the mountains is different, every decision unique, and this one made collectively by the three of us felt appropriate.
或许我和Hayden被山峰蒙了心，或许对于Josh来说，说出“你们去”的这个决定是犯浑了。我们三个把“在山里始终呆在一起”的圭臬抛在一边，并且我们的决定应受一定程度的审视。然而，与我们选择的同伴一起进山冒险的每时每刻，我们始终都必须对自身（状态）、周围环境保持清醒（认识），并把这些感受相互沟通。如果Josh说他得下撤了，我和Hayden将遂其所愿；如果无论我或Hayden强烈地坚信把Josh丢下不是个好主意，或者（认为）往上的地形太过危险，（我们）都将下撤；如果任意一人对所处环境持有不同判断，我们都将不会做出这样的决定。山峰上的（情况）瞬息万变，每次的抉择都是应景而行，而我们觉得这个由三人共同做出的决定是合理的。
