震惊！瑞士机器（Ueli Steck）今晨攀登珠峰不幸坠亡！（转自搜狐新闻） - 户外大厅 - 8264户外手机版

据珠峰大本营发来的最新消息，当今世界上最厉害的登山运动员：乌里 斯特克（Ueli Steck）在攀登的是珠峰和洛子峰横跨时不幸发生意外从努子峰壁滑坠落下，目前已确认死亡。此次他攀登的这条线路属于 8000米非常规线路，到目前为止世界上还没有人进行过尝试。

如上图最高点两点之前横跨线路（图片来源于UeliSteck 官网）

今天早上九点半左右，他原本在二号营地等待他的搭档 Tenjin SHERPA 一起攀登努子峰壁，但 Tenjin 因为冻伤无法与他同行。于是他就展开了一个人攀登。

Ueli 是世界上最优秀的速攀选手之一。

而他也经常挑战险峻路线，却连防止坠落的绳索和设备都不带，深知任何一个小小的过失都足以致命。

他也曾说：“这是非常危险的游戏，一个很小的失误，你就会完蛋“。只是，我们都没能预料，他会出现这种失误。

Ueli Steck 近照

40 岁的 Ueli Steck（乌力?史塔克），绰号“瑞士机器”，是当今最快最厉害的专业登山运动员，无论是在喜马拉雅山脉远征，还是在阿尔卑斯山脉攀登，甚至无保护独自攀登，他总能用如瑞士的精密仪器般的攀登技巧和不知疲惫的强悍体能，创造一个又一个奇迹。

Ueli成名于一座海拔不高，但是在登山届能与珠峰相提并论的山峰，“死亡之墙”——艾格峰北壁。

“死亡之墙”艾格峰北壁，图片来源于维基百科

艾格峰位于瑞士因特拉肯，虽然海拔只有海拔 3970 米，但是自 20 世纪 30年代以来，艾格峰在欧洲的关注程度不亚于任何一座阿尔卑斯山峰甚至万里之外的喜马拉雅，喀喇昆仑 8000 米山峰，艾格峰北壁被誉为“阿尔卑斯最后难题”。

阴面为艾格峰北壁，图片来源于 YouTube 视频截屏

艾格峰北壁异常陡峭，刀削般的绝壁就连皑皑白雪也堆积不住，平均坡度 70 度，垂直落差 1800 米，敢于向这一组数字挑战的人，需要高超的攀登技巧和过人的勇气，这里是国际登山界公认的难关。艾格峰因山势险峻而被视为“欧洲第一险峰”，与马特洪峰、大乔拉斯峰并称为“阿尔卑斯山三大北壁”。

1938 年至今艾格峰北壁线路，图片来源于维基百科

1938 年，两位德国人和奥地利人用了 3 天的时间成功从北壁登顶了艾格峰。1974 年登山皇帝梅斯纳尔和他的搭档将这个纪录提升到了 10 小时，并且宣称没人能比这个更快了。1983 年托马斯?布本多尔夫以单人无保护的攀登方式，将这个纪录提升到了 4 小时 50 分钟。

Ueli 正在攀爬艾格峰，图片来源于 YouTube 视频截图

2008 年 2 月，Ueli 用时 2 小时 47 分创造了新的记录，把艾格峰的攀登时间缩短至 3 小时以内！这段视频完美的再现了
Ueli 攀登艾格峰。

大乔拉斯北壁线路，图片来源于 camptocamp.org

在完成艾格峰北壁之后，同年 12 月底，Ueli 用时 2 小时 21 分登顶海拔 4208 米大乔拉斯北壁，创造了大乔拉斯北壁的最快攀登记录！

马特洪峰线路，图片来源于 camptocamp.org

2009 年 1 月， Ueli 用时 1 小时 56 分就完成了马特洪峰北壁，创造了马特洪峰最快攀登记录！

派拉蒙影业公司以马特洪峰为公司logo，图片来源于 paramount.com

马特洪峰因为其俊伟独特的外型成为阿尔卑斯的象征，在阿尔卑斯登山史上，它是最后一个被登顶的山峰。1932年德国的 Schmidt 兄弟完成马特洪峰北壁的首攀，获得了当年奥运会登山金牌。（奥运会登山金牌只有3块，1932 年和 1936 年颁发过3次）。

Ueli在一年之内完成三大北壁的大满贯，三项新纪录，总计 7 小时的攀登时间无疑是阿尔卑斯登山史上一个里程碑。2015 年 11 月，Ueli 再次回到艾格峰，用时 2小时 22 分就完成了艾格峰的攀登！

除了在阿尔卑斯山脉，Ueli在喜马拉雅山脉也有很不错的攀登记录。

Ueli和搭档获得金冰镐奖的 Tengkampoche 峰北壁的线路，图片来源于 Explorers

2008年，Ueli 和搭档攀登了位于尼泊尔喜马拉雅山区，海拔 6500 米的 Tengkampoche 峰北壁的一条路线，此举使得两位登山家获得了 2009 年的金冰镐奖。

金冰镐奖：相当于登山届的奥斯卡奖，每年对最佳的阿尔卑斯式攀登进行表彰和奖励。

Ueli 和搭档获奖，图片来源于 klettern

西藏希夏邦马峰，图片来源于百度百科

Ueli
在攀登希夏邦马途中，图片来源于planetmountain.com

2011 年，用时 10 个半小时完成了中国境内的希夏邦马峰南壁。希夏邦马峰，海拔 8012 米，第 14 座8000 米，正常攀登周期在半个月左右。

安娜普尔纳，图片来源于 planetmountain.com
上山前的准备，图片来源于 planetmountain.com

2013 年 Ueli 完成海拔 8090 米的安纳普尔纳南壁新路线，并且以 28 小时往返完成这条路线的单人完攀，在登山史上，这是一次划时代的攀登。

Ueli 在安娜普尔纳南壁的新线路，图片来源于 vimeo.com

　　在Ueli Steck 成功完成 solo 攀登后，同为获得过金冰镐奖的登山家的法国人Yannick Graziani 和 Stephane Benoist 用了 10 天才重复这条路线。由此可见，Ueli Steck 的这次攀登是何等厉害！

　　他在完成这条线路之后如是说

对我来说，安纳普尔纳是个特殊的存在，完成那条路线就像我毕生追求的梦想一样。当我开始从南壁进行攀登，我真的已经做好了无法活着回来的准备。在我生命当中这是第一次。如果现在我回头看，我会说那是错的；但那时对我来说，这是完全正确的。

http://cul.sohu.com/20170501/n491334543.shtml

死得其所

大牛走了 应该是上帝的安排

国内登山界对此事的反应极为冷淡，与国际登山界形成鲜明对比，从另一个角度说明国内极限登山界在遭受几个重大挫折后，至今无法复原
这次事故说明登山不应简单地理解为挑战极限、探险或者锻炼身体，山对人来说有着更深层的妙义
由此我们可以理解为什么古人会去拜山，如果不是这样，山上有很多事物都可轻易地让一个高手分心，犯下致命的错误

牛人一枚，辉煌一生。

本帖最后由 096 于 2017-5-5 08:47 编辑

阿式登山家网站对此事的报道值得一读

http://www.alpinist.com/
Ueli Steck, one of the most accomplished alpine climbers in history, was found dead April 30 at the base of the Nuptse Face near Mt. Everest's Camp II.

Steck was known for high-altitude speed climbing without oxygen. The Himalayan Times reported that the 40-year-old Swiss climber was last seen at 4:30 a.m. going up Nuptse (7861m). The climb was to acclimatize for an attempt to climb Everest (8848m) by the seldom-attempted 1963 Hornbein-Unsoeld route on the West Ridge, descend the normal South Col route, traverse into Lohtse's normal route, climb to the summit of Lhotse (8516m) and then descend straight back down to Everest's Camp II to complete a loop of light and fast climbing.

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"I will not say it's an easy traverse," Steck said on a video, describing the enchainment into Lhotse. "Everything has already been climbed once, but the whole linkup has never been done."

Steck's fame transcended climbing circles when he broke the Eiger North Face speed record three times, first at 3 hours, 54 minutes, in 2007, then at 2:47:33 in 2008, and then 2:22:50 in 2015.

In a 2011 interview with Alpinist, Steck said his speed climbing career began with the north face of the Eiger.

"I first climbed it in 1995 with my friend Markus [at age 18]," he said. "After several ascents, I soloed it for the first time in 2004 in 10 hours. This made me think about Thomas Bubendorfer's time of 4 hours and 50 minutes and Christoph Heinz's 4-hour, 30-minute record. This was almost incredible for me. Less than half the time it took me to climb it. This pushed me to improve my climbing."

Ueli Steck [Photo] Ludovic PeronUeli Steck. [Photo] Ludovic Peron

In 2008 he set a record on the Grandes Jorasses at 2:21, then set a record on the Matterhorn in 2009 when he climbed it in 1:56.

"I am sure the speed ascents will be a very important experience for me in the future," he told Alpinist. "At the moment I am interested in the big mountains: 8000-meter peaks."

Steck had a breakout year in 2009. He climbed Gasherbrum II (8035m) for his first 8000-meter peak and nearly onsighted Golden Gate (VI 5.13) on El Capitan in Yosemite. That year he also received his first Piolet d'Or for his 2008 first ascent of the north face of Nepal's Tengkampoche (6500m) with Simon Anthamatten by a route they dubbed Checkmate (AI 5 M7 5.11+ A0, 2000m).

Steck reported a 10.5-hour solo ascent of the 2000-meter southwest face of Shishapangma (8027m) in 2011. Then, in 2013, he reported a solo speed of 28 hours round trip on a new route of Annapurna's 3200-meter South Face—for which he received a second Piolet d'Or in 2014—but those ascents have recently come under scrutiny. (Steck wrote a story called "Journey into Night" about his Annapurna ascent in Alpinist 45.) Rock and Ice quoted him saying that there are "also people who doubt the moon landing."

Steck was attempting the Everest-Lhotse linkup with Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith in 2013 when they got into a fight with Sherpa guides near Camp II. The altercation brought on international media attention.

"We were not wrong or right, and the Sherpas were not wrong or right," he told Outsideonline.com.

In 2015 Steck climbed all 82 4000-meter peaks in the Alps in 62 days in a single push using only human-powered transport, by foot, bike and paraglider. The record of 60 days was accomplished with vehicles for shuttles between peaks.

"People forget something: in climbing, it doesn't matter what you're doing," he told Outsideonline.com in 2010. "If you do a speed ascent, you're the fastest up the Eiger's North Face, nothing's going to change in the world. But maybe your world is going to change. In the evening, when you're going to bed, you know exactly what you have done. And that's what it's all about....If it's your challenge, and you're happy with it, that's the most important thing."

At the end of "Journey into Night" in Alpinist 45, Steck wrote: "The world will continue beyond these pages. Past the dark of the night and the light of the snow. With or without me. With a climb or without a climb. That's how it is; there's nothing else."

7861这山看上去要比两座8000+的要陡峭得多，但应该没幺妹峰的难度高，所以ulei steck对此次攀登不以为意，从他事前的态度看，这次的挑战主要是针对体能的

魂归魂,土归土,不管是人还是鬼,都终将是梦一场!