<P> The next morning, January 23rd, brought a pleasant surprised when they discovered that the rime mushroom that had stopped Garibotti and Johnstone's attempt two months before, had fallen off. Haley and Garibotti found the upper "Arca" in worse conditions than Garibotti had encountered in 2005, and were forced to clean much ice from the cracks. Garibotti was forced to place one bolt at a crux pendulum to avoid yet another rime mushroom. Tired from the previous two days and slowed down by the conditions they reached the top of Cerro Torre's north face at 5 PM, and here joined the final pitches of the "Ferrari" route on the west ridge. They climbed two pitches through natural rime tunnels to reach the base of the last pitch, notorious for having turned many climbers around. Haley and Garibotti, both of who had led this final pitch before found it in more difficult condition that they had previously seen. This final pitch is climbed by laboriously digging vertical trenches through the rime, and since no other party had yet attempted it this season, they found the 50-meters of protection-less rime daunting. Haley attempted the pitch in the evening, digging 30 feet of half pipe in one hour before giving up for the day. Under a full moon they bivied one pitch below the Torre summit. "Rested" after a long night shivering, Haley attacked the pitch again, digging a tunnel from the top of his half pipe. He spent three hours completing a 20-meter tunnel inside the mushroom, and exited to finish in a naturally formed tunnel.</P>
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<P> 1月23日清晨，他们惊喜的发现曾令Garibotti和Johnstone两个月前的攀登止步的岩石冰帽已脱落。但是当向上爬到 "Arca"段时，他们发现这里的状况比Garibotti 2005年攀登遇到的还要糟糕，不得不停下来将上面的冰面打碎。为避免另一快冰盖，Garibotti还在关键位置打了一个机械赛。前两天体力的过度消耗和一路上冰帽的影响，他们终于在23日下午5点钟到达Cerro Torre峰的北壁顶端并且开始了在西山脊上Ferrari线路的攀登。他们又顺着冰雪的天然石缝爬了两段绳距，到达最后一段绳距的休息点，一个曾经令众多攀登者望而止步的鬼地方。在上来之后他们才体会到这里的难度远远高于他们以往所见到的。要想攀过这里，必须在冰川上上凿出一道道垂直的沟壑。以前从没有人在冬季攀过这里，他们发现一道足有50米长无发设置任何保护点的冰川，危险可想而知。在夜幕下，Haley一个小时内试着挖了30英尺的一段通道后，他们放弃了这一天的征程，停下来休息。满月下，两人在距Torre峰顶仅剩下一段绳距的地方支起帐篷休息。颤抖的过了一夜之后，Haley继续在昨晚挖的沟上工作，三个小时后，他在冰盖上又凿出了一条20米长的沟，从而完成了一条通往峰顶的天然隧道。</P>
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<P> At midday on January 24th they reached the summit of Cerro Torre, completing the first ascent of the much-fantasized Torre Traverse. After a short rest they descended the "Compressor Route" along Cerro Torre's southeast ridge to reach the glacier below by evening. For maximum efficiency, Haley and Garibotti divided the leads based on their differing skills, Haley leading the pure ice and rime pitches, and Garibotti leading the rock and rime-covered rock. The follower jumared with a heavy pack, and the leader either climbed with a pack or hauled it depending on the terrain. Because of bad conditions they climbed slower than expected and summited Cerro Torre with no food left. Under ideal weather and conditions, and with the final "Ferrari" pitch already excavated, they feel the traverse could be done significantly faster.</P>
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<P> 1月24日中午时分，Garibotti 和Haley终于登顶Cerro Torre峰，完成了梦幻般的Torre群峰连登。稍作休整后，他们再次启程，沿着Cerro Torre东南山脊的"压缩机"路线而下，在傍晚之前到达冰川处。为最大限度地提高效率，两人发挥各自技术特长，分别领攀。Haley负责纯冰雪路段，Garibotti则领攀冰岩混合路段。后面的人背负一个重包通过上升期器上升，而领攀者或是背着一个包下降或是根据地形托着装备。由于极度恶劣的天气，他们的速度比预想的要慢很多，而且登山Cerro Torre顶时，所有的食物都已吃光。他们觉得如果天气好，"Ferrari"段提前凿通的话，那么以后的连登速度要快很多。</P>
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<P align=center><IMG style="BORDER-RIGHT: #cdc8a7 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #cdc8a7 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px; BORDER-LEFT: #cdc8a7 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #cdc8a7 1px solid" alt="" src="http://image.8264.com/portal/upload/Image/2008/200802/20080203/20080203190128KqWq.jpg#h" _fcksavedurl="/upload/Image/2008/200802/20080203/20080203190128KqWq.jpg#h"><BR><STRONG>Haley (左) 和 Garibotti 在Cerro Torre顶峰</STRONG></P>
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<P align=left> Although success on the Torre Traverse has been elusive because of strategy and weather difficulties Garibotti comments that it involves little extreme climbing, with difficulties never above 5.11 and A1. Other than the last "Ferrari" pitch there are no really committing leads. Garibotti feels that the future of Patagonia alpinism lies not in link-ups or traverses but perhaps in alpine style repeats of the inmense routes of the 1980s, such as Silvo Karo and Janez Jeglic's Cerro Torre South Face or their Devil's Directissima on the East Face. Having felt partly responsible for delaying an academic career, Garibotti was relieved upon returning to their bivouac in the Torre valley to hear Haley exclaim, "The Torre Traverse is way better than mineralogy homework!" A big thanks goes to "il Maestro", to Ermanno Salvaterra, for the idea, for the inspiration, and for continuing, 20 years on, to show the way...</P>
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<P> 尽管已成功完成了Torre群峰的连登，但，Garibotti表示其实攀登过程中并没有达到什么攀登极限，难度也从没超过5.11 和 A1，一切只是战术上的问题和恶劣的气侯造成，除了最后"Ferrari"段很困难外，其他并没有什么特别的。Garibotti认为在以后巴塔哥尼亚登山技术中，不要仅仅着眼于各个山峰之间的连登，而应该多以阿尔卑斯登山方式攀登像80年代开辟的那些线路，像Silvo Karo 和 Janez Jeglic开辟的Cerro Torre峰南壁路线或东壁的"魔鬼Directissima"路线。而Haley对于成功的攀登却是兴奋不已，他激动的大喊："太刺激了！这比做矿物学作业要好多了，非常感谢"il Maestro"，感谢Ermanno Salvaterra提出这个设想，这个持续了20年的梦。"</P>
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<P><STRONG>climbing.com 相关报道链接---<A href="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/completetorretraverse/" target=_blank _fcksavedurl="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/completetorretraverse/"><FONT color=#0000ff>点击进入</FONT></A><BR>alpinist.com 相关报道链接---<A href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-torre-traverse-garibotti-haley" target=_blank _fcksavedurl="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-torre-traverse-garibotti-haley"><FONT color=#0000ff>点击进入</FONT></A></STRONG></P>
<P align=right><STRONG>翻译</STRONG>：<STRONG>大鹏 faye<BR> 校对</STRONG>：<STRONG>大鹏</STRONG></P>
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本帖最后由 darkblueocean 于 2008-2-3 19:23 编辑 ]
