2017捷克人Pavel Korinek单人solo登顶贡嘎后续更新 - 山伍成群 - 8264户外手机版

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本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-10-6 14:24 编辑

我仍然坚持我当初的看法,也许在最后一个营地前的路线,他不是单人行动,但是从最后一个营地到登顶,他是单人solo完成,以下为英文更新
Good news from Sichuan, China this month! A group of Czech climbers have been sUCCessful on the mystic peak Minya Konka (7 556m) which has been unclimbed since 2002. One of them - Pavel Korinek made the summit.

Permanent bad weather clinging to this mountain means that ascents are rare and the mortality rate is quite high - twice as many have died on this mountain as have summited. The summit ridge is extremely avalanche prone with fresh snow from the constant storms.

Minya Konka is one of the highest mountains standing in isolation from the main himalayan arch. We have published and in-depth article about the first conquest by an American group in 1932:

http://emontana.cz/minya-konka-1932-china/

Photos: Petr Krejci, Jan Hustak, Pavel Korinek

Have a nice weekend,
Standa
本帖最后由 崇幄 于 2018-10-6 14:38 编辑

捷克哥们的登顶线路如图中橙红色所示,与2002法国线路完全一致,传统得不能再传统的线路,因此也没什么可值得BB的,这种线路和金冰镐的要求相去甚远,若想冲击金冰镐,可考虑图中的绿色和蓝色线路(据说蓝线老毛子曾尝试,说明毛子的确有眼光),高海拔大岩壁攀登必选
这个帐篷不用拉风绳的吗?
能登顶都是牛逼的
传统线路看起确实不难,没有大岩壁

既然幺妹北壁可以颁金冰镐,央迈勇的东北壁或北壁也肯定可以,更不要说贡嘎的西南壁和东南壁了

当年Charlie Fowler在央迈勇的东北壁5486.400m处一个睡袋大小的平台待了两个晚上,没想出继续登顶的办法

看来Charlie Fowler的高海拔大岩壁技术有所欠缺,否则他solo幺妹峰的时候很可能就会选北壁线路
补充详细的营地设置点,可以说这条线路在选择上大大降低技术难度,只要天气好的话,象高家虎这样的爱好者走这条线也应该可以登顶
优酷网有41分钟的采访视频,捷克语的,又不少新视频、新图片

最后一个营地到顶峰是一个人,那么问题来了,峰顶的照片谁帮他拍了?
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